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Arctic Cat: 1M 2001-2005, all models in the Mountain Cat / 1M chassis
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Old 03-03-2018, 01:46 PM
lasse lasse is offline
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Question ( 2004 ) 9-Tower clutch questions... ?


I'm doing a full drive clutch rebuild and found something strange during reassembling.
I started to check the drive belt to sheave distance to get a base line
but discovered that the drive belt to sheave distance seems to be way to big 0.079"

On most places I have read, people often writes about adjusting it to 0.01" - 0.02"
Is there any recomended drive belt to sheave distance for the 9-tower clutch ?

But how to get the moveable sheave closer to the stationary sheave ?
Must I put the stationary sheave in a lathe and take away some material ?

* Clutch is empty without any weights in it.
* New Arctic Cat drive belt.

Last edited by lasse; 03-04-2018 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 03-03-2018, 10:33 PM
snownman snownman is offline
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the wts. have to be in the clutch to shim it, Make sure the shims are centered and sit down into the recessed area on the spider or you will break the spider when you torque it...
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:29 AM
lasse lasse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snownman View Post
The weights have to be in the clutch to shim it,
Make sure the shims are centered and sit down into the recessed area on the spider or you will break the spider when you torque it...
No, I do not think so.
( but I could be wrong )
First you adjust the belt to sheave distance without weights.
Second you adjust the roller to weight distance depending of the profile/curvature of the weight because it affects the distance between the roller and the weight.

The spider in my 9-tower clutch does not have any recessed area.

Last edited by lasse; 03-04-2018 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:48 AM
lasse lasse is offline
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder101 View Post
Your belt to sheave should be 0.020" with a new belt.
Cat uses a step shim and you will need to have it machined down on the small end usually and then shim the big end to untuck the weights
I do not understand this stepped shim thing ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RACINSTATION View Post
The shims go between the fixed sheave and the spider, so under the spider.
Like Thunder said, a lot of times they use a stepped shim.
Sometimes a shop will rebuild a spider or a clutch and check the belt to sheave clearance and set it at 0.020", which is Cats recommended spec, and they will neglect to measure the weight to roller clearance.
The stepped shim allows the moveable to travel a bit farther and keep the weight close to the roller so you don't get a slap in engagement.
Also, if the roller to weight clearance is insufficient you will get belt drag even if you have proper belt to sheave clearance.

Most new clutches are close,
but many are way off.
I have 0,079" belt to sheve clearance.
What should I do since I can not adjust the moveable sheave any closer as it is now ?
Should I put the stationary sheave in a lathe and take away 0.058" ?
Or should I make a thick adjustment shim that is going down on the outside of the stationary shaft ?

Last edited by lasse; 03-04-2018 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:21 AM
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if you have to much belt to sheave clearance machining material off the fixed sheave would make things worse. You remove shims or use a thinner shim to get to the desired belt to sheave clearance. As mentioned before Cat uses a stepped shim in most clutches I have broke down. Also you can have big shim and little shim ( diameter) as for having the weights in I never did it that way I know my P85 that FTX put together told me thats how he does them. With the Cat clutches back when I F'ed with them I would set the belt to sheave and the weight to roller ( cat weights were a bit tucked) so spider and movable sheave are set. On HCS there was a guy named Dono (i think) and he was good at explaining things and he made a custom stepped shim to correct Cats ****ty measuring.
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:01 PM
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Another option is put on a 911 cover and adjust belt clearance with the cover adjuster. Simple and does not risk spider failure due to damage caused by stress of removing and installing.
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:00 PM
lasse lasse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder101 View Post
If you have to much belt to sheave clearance machining material off the fixed sheave would make things worse.
You remove shims or use a thinner shim to get to the desired belt to sheave clearance.
As mentioned before Cat uses a stepped shim in most clutches I have broke down.
Also you can have big shim and little shim ( diameter) as for having the weights in I never did it that way I know my P85 that FTX put together told me thats how he does them.
With the Cat clutches back when I F'ed with them I would set the belt to sheave and the weight to roller ( cat weights were a bit tucked) so spider and movable sheave are set.
On HCS there was a guy named Dono (i think) and he was good at explaining things and he made a custom stepped shim to correct Cats ****ty measuring.
Problem is that I can not shim the moveable sheave to get any closer to the stationary sheave as it is now ( from factory ).
That's why I asked if I should remove some material from the big shaft so the moveable sheave comes closer to the stationary sheave ??
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Last edited by lasse; 03-05-2018 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:10 AM
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I would check it with the weights in it, if it still has to much clearance, then yes, machine the shaft
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:44 AM
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Just get a Thunder ABC adjuster/bolt. Got em on all my older cats. Ask to .020 & ride. Wayyy smoother engagement
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:47 PM
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:23 PM
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