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TPS check / adjust step by step.

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Mar 14, 2011
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Saskatoon, SK
My '16 starting having the low idle issue and not wanting to go into reverse last spring. Because it still has 2 weeks of warranty left I dropped it off at a dealer. They got to work on it right away, found the idle setting was low (.900v) and adjusted it(.930v). Unfortunately, now sled wont run for more than a minute, keeps fouling plugs. :mad2:
I asked the tech if he set the baseline on the TPS before adjusting the idle? The response was "there is only one adjustment on the TPS and it is done with the computer!
Can the dealer change the TPS setting with digital wrench without physically adjusting anything?

Polaris seems to have a policy, I don't know how new it is, that dealers/customers should not be adjusting TPS at all. Their policy says that if you suspect any TPS problem, you buy a whole new throttle body assembly, which comes with the calibrated TPS on it.

In your case, you should probably try doing the manual procedure documented here on the forum.
 

nater24

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Dec 5, 2010
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I read through the detailed instructions and I keep getting stuck on a couple parts.... After I've back probed the yellow wire and getting 5.00 volts and then move the back probe to the blue wire it immediately gives me .944 but the instructions says that I should get a reading of .69-.712. The reading of .944 that i'm getting matches the spec for the idle setting. Should I just assume that my base setting is just way out of wack and it's just a coincidence that it matches the number for the idle setting? Or did I miss something?

Also, it says that in order to set the base setting you loosen the 2 screws on the TPS sensor but it never says how to actually adjust it. I'm not seeing any adjustment screw on the MAG side. I do see the 2 screws on the outside of the TPS sensor. Is there another step for actually adjusting the base setting that I'm missing?

Also, Once I get the base setting to .700 how do I switch to the idle setting to make sure that's at .940? If I leave it back probed to the blue wire it seems that I'm still testing the same thing. I know I have to change the Idle Screw that's at the end of where the throttle cable attaches but if it's still back probed to the blue wire and I'm not still testing the base setting?

I must be missing something here that many others are clearly not.

Any help would be great.

Thanks
 

nater24

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Haha. Sorry about that. I already had my sled torn down for something else so I just jumped to the part where you say, "Now you're ready to check your TPS settings...." and I had not backed the idle adjust screw out yet. I'll go do that now. Disregard my original post.



QUOTE=nater24;4114010]I read through the detailed instructions and I keep getting stuck on a couple parts.... After I've back probed the yellow wire and getting 5.00 volts and then move the back probe to the blue wire it immediately gives me .944 but the instructions says that I should get a reading of .69-.712. The reading of .944 that i'm getting matches the spec for the idle setting. Should I just assume that my base setting is just way out of wack and it's just a coincidence that it matches the number for the idle setting? Or did I miss something?

Also, it says that in order to set the base setting you loosen the 2 screws on the TPS sensor but it never says how to actually adjust it. I'm not seeing any adjustment screw on the MAG side. I do see the 2 screws on the outside of the TPS sensor. Is there another step for actually adjusting the base setting that I'm missing?

Also, Once I get the base setting to .700 how do I switch to the idle setting to make sure that's at .940? If I leave it back probed to the blue wire it seems that I'm still testing the same thing. I know I have to change the Idle Screw that's at the end of where the throttle cable attaches but if it's still back probed to the blue wire and I'm not still testing the base setting?

I must be missing something here that many others are clearly not.

Any help would be great.

Thanks[/QUOTE]
 

RMKillR

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Wisco
When I probe and check for 5.00-5.01 I’m voltmeter is reading 4.98. Battery is fully charged


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SRXSRULE

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When I probe and check for 5.00-5.01 I’m voltmeter is reading 4.98. Battery is fully charged


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Make sure the battery in your meter is is fully charged too. Other then that, wiggle your ground connection and see if that helps.
 

toesmack

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Feb 27, 2008
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Bog problem

Just did the TPS setting on a buddies sled today. Class A PITA to get the voltage correct on the baseline down to the last .001 volt. Just loosening and tightening the screws results in .005 to .015 change, and if you move the TPS just a frogs hair, WAY more than that. Finally got the baseline to exactly .700 and the idle adjust was easy to dial to .940, just a pain to access the screw. Will see if it runs this weekend, chasing the snow to McCall as there is none in the Tahoe area.

Thanks for posting the procedure, and you're right, way easier without the belt and secondary.

By the way, Reno dealer said we could not do this ourselves, we needed to wait for their techs to get around to it. Good thing I did not know that until after I had it done.
 
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RMKillR

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Wisco
Have tried to different volt meters, both with fresh batteries. Using a fully charged stock rmk battery and when I test the tps voltage I get 4.98-4.99 no matter what I do. Cleaned the ground I used for the meter. No change. Bad sensor?


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RMKillR

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Dec 29, 2009
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Wisco
Just did the TPS setting on a buddies sled today. Class A PITA to get the voltage correct on the baseline down to the last .001 volt. Just loosening and tightening the screws results in .005 to .015 change, and if you move the TPS just a frogs hair, WAY more than that. Finally got the baseline to exactly .700 and the idle adjust was easy to dial to .940, just a pain to access the screw. Will see if it runs this weekend, chasing the snow to McCall as there is none in the Tahoe area.

Thanks for posting the procedure, and you're right, way easier without the belt and secondary.

By the way, Reno dealer said we could not do this ourselves, we needed to wait for their techs to get around to it. Good thing I did not know that until after I had it done.



It’s easier to just pull the air box. Makes the idle adjustment 10x easier and when you’re that far into it, simple remove the two fasteners holding the clutch guard in and move it out of the way, and the air box comes right out, then you can get both your paws in there to adjust it


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toesmack

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Thanks for the tip. Idle was easy. Baseline was the pain. Easy to get to but a pain to do fine adjustment, tiny movement results in big changes.

As to voltage showing low, I believe that the 5.01v is the signal voltage being supplied TO the tps FROM the ecu. The baseline and idle voltage are the return of info back to the cpu from the tps. These are common voltage values used in big trucks and big off road construction equipment for similar sensors. If that were my sled, I would go ahead with the adjustments and see what happens.

2 meters agree, so I doubt that both are lying. Your signal is most likely low.
 
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toesmack

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Feb 27, 2008
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Reno, NV
TPS adjustment

Just returned from 4 days riding at McCall Idaho. RMK ran perfect. Adjustment paid off well. Easy starting and performance was restored to new. Worth the time to get it right.
 
N

NWaxys

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Feb 28, 2016
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Eastern WA back country
Adjustment was easy, takes more time pulling stuff off sled but done in hour, can’t get to pull above 8000 rpm and it will bog down at times. Hope this fixes it.
 

Ron Burgandy

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I must be a little slow... which wire do i probe to find the idle setting?

edit: nm... will your first reading be your idle and than when you back that screw off it will read the base?


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SRXSRULE

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edit: nm... will your first reading be your idle and than when you back that screw off it will read the base?


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Correct. same wire for both readings. if your checking it to see where its at, the first reading would be your idle, then back off screw and get your base.
But when you go to adjust it to spec, the first reading is your base, which you adjust by moving the sensor housing, then lock it in place. Then set your idle by turning the screw back in.
 

Ron Burgandy

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well i've been battling high idle and low top end rpms, sled is under warranty so dealer has been doing all the work but the issue continues. They wrote their tps settings in the notes on the receipt so i was just gonna see how far different that is from this method. basically double checking the DW accuracy the dealership has been using.


I should be able to unhook throttle cable and read the idle setting without dismantling the whole sled correct?

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Last edited:

SRXSRULE

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well i've been battling high idle and low top end rpms, sled is under warranty so dealer has been doing all the work but the issue continues. They wrote their tps settings in the notes on the receipt so i was just gonna see how far different that is from this method. basically double checking the DW accuracy the dealership has been using.


I should be able to unhook throttle cable and read the idle setting without dismantling the whole sled correct?

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yes. As long as your throttle cable has the correct slack in it, you can check your idle setting with out taking anything apart.
 
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