Is the Ctec2 the same as previous cat 800?
2 bolts and pull exhaust valve out to clean?
2 bolts and pull exhaust valve out to clean?
Exhaust valve removal
- Thread starter summ8rmk
- Start date
The easy answer is no, because of the side valves. I'm not sure what the service manual says, but one of the cylinders will likely need to be removed in order to extract the main exhaust valves to perform a full cleaning operation.
The reason a cylinder will need to be pulled is because there is a pin running through a hole in the main exhaust valve and connecting on each end to slots in the side valves. As the main valve moves up and down, that pin manipulates the side valves to move through their rotation. In order to remove the main exhaust valve, that pin needs to be removed. And in order to remove the side valves in the center of the engine, one of the cylinders needs to be pulled.
Theoretically, you could possibly leave the cylinders on the engine by removing the outer two side valves, remove the pin mentioned above, and then remove the main exhaust valve. However, if either one of the inside side valves happens to rotate ever so slightly without that rod holding it in position, you won't be able to get the pin reinstalled. At that point a cylinder will need to be removed so the side valve can be accessed and the pin reinstalled.
Basically, when you start with all the raw components, the assembly process goes like this....
1. put the main exhaust valve into its slot in the cylinder
2. slide the connecting pin through the hole in the main exhaust valve, centering it so that the same amount extends from both sides
3. install both side exhaust valves at the same time, aligning a slot in each side valve with the connecting pin
4. install the side valve covers locking the assembly together
5. install the main exhaust valve cover/cable
6. install the "assembled" cylinder on the crankcase
In the end, that connecting pin kind of ties everything together. That being said, there are a lot of moving parts to this exhaust valve system and a failure in any one of them will cause the entire system to fail. It will be interesting to see how this design holds up over time or how much regular maintenance will be necessary.
The reason a cylinder will need to be pulled is because there is a pin running through a hole in the main exhaust valve and connecting on each end to slots in the side valves. As the main valve moves up and down, that pin manipulates the side valves to move through their rotation. In order to remove the main exhaust valve, that pin needs to be removed. And in order to remove the side valves in the center of the engine, one of the cylinders needs to be pulled.
Theoretically, you could possibly leave the cylinders on the engine by removing the outer two side valves, remove the pin mentioned above, and then remove the main exhaust valve. However, if either one of the inside side valves happens to rotate ever so slightly without that rod holding it in position, you won't be able to get the pin reinstalled. At that point a cylinder will need to be removed so the side valve can be accessed and the pin reinstalled.
Basically, when you start with all the raw components, the assembly process goes like this....
1. put the main exhaust valve into its slot in the cylinder
2. slide the connecting pin through the hole in the main exhaust valve, centering it so that the same amount extends from both sides
3. install both side exhaust valves at the same time, aligning a slot in each side valve with the connecting pin
4. install the side valve covers locking the assembly together
5. install the main exhaust valve cover/cable
6. install the "assembled" cylinder on the crankcase
In the end, that connecting pin kind of ties everything together. That being said, there are a lot of moving parts to this exhaust valve system and a failure in any one of them will cause the entire system to fail. It will be interesting to see how this design holds up over time or how much regular maintenance will be necessary.
Last edited:
Per the service manual, page 82...
NOTE: To remove the valve assembly and both side valves, the cylinder will have to be removed from the crankcase.
NOTE: To remove the outside side valve and main exhaust valve, the access panels, hood, expansion chamber, resonator, clutches, and the left-side spar will have to be removed.
Last edited:
exhaust valves
I believe the key words are both side valves. To remove the right side valve the left cylinder is in the way.
I believe the key words are both side valves. To remove the right side valve the left cylinder is in the way.
Last edited:
Ok,
Remove the outside valve cover (that don't sound right on a 2stoke), remove the side valve, remove the pin that goes through the main valve, remove the main valve similar to the Zuke engine. Reassemble in reverse order.
Could an issue arise from the inside valve? Could it move, making install of the pin impossible? Or maybe just some finnesing and wiggling?
Remove the outside valve cover (that don't sound right on a 2stoke), remove the side valve, remove the pin that goes through the main valve, remove the main valve similar to the Zuke engine. Reassemble in reverse order.
Could an issue arise from the inside valve? Could it move, making install of the pin impossible? Or maybe just some finnesing and wiggling?
I have not done this job, but looking in the parts book it appears that the side valve rod would need to be removed to get the main valve out. That's how I see it. I use the C-Tec oil in my Suzuki and have never had to clean the exhaust valves. Maybe that's A/C thinking not sure but it doesn't look like a quick job. A/C does offer a gasket kit for the top end maybe that's why???
Ok,
Remove the outside valve cover (that don't sound right on a 2stoke), remove the side valve, remove the pin that goes through the main valve, remove the main valve similar to the Zuke engine. Reassemble in reverse order.
Could an issue arise from the inside valve? Could it move, making install of the pin impossible? Or maybe just some finnesing and wiggling?
As far as the pin goes there must be a way to align it,remember someone put that together at the factory and its meant to be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled.
Jepjep. Try it... No need.. But if you want...
Lähetetty minun K10000 Pro laitteesta Tapatalkilla
The notes I identified are mutually exclusive, not inclusive, there is a difference. The first note is if you want to remove BOTH side valve, then yes, a cylinder will need to be pulled. The second note applies when you want to remove the main valve, then the cylinders do not need to be removed, but the other items need to take place.
Ok,
Remove the outside valve cover (that don't sound right on a 2stoke), remove the side valve, remove the pin that goes through the main valve, remove the main valve similar to the Zuke engine. Reassemble in reverse order.
Could an issue arise from the inside valve? Could it move, making install of the pin impossible? Or maybe just some finnesing and wiggling?
It's not "outside valve cover" it is outside side valve cover. As for your questions, read my original post, this is exactly what I stated.
J
I figured out a way to put the 800 ctec2 power valves back together if that inside secondary valve turns when you remove the pin that runs through the main valve. I had to talk the y-pipe off and there is enough room to get inside the exhaust port and turn that valve back to where it needs to be for the pin to ride in. To avoid this issue again I have a small strong magnet that will fit between the cylinders and stick to that valve through the cap and hold it in place while cleaning. I don't see any reason why you should have to take a cylinder off to clean the inside valves on either cylinder. They don't get gummy and carboned up. They ride on a roller bearing on the inside of the cap. I clean my valves after every season so I know they are working properly every year. I hope this post helps anyone who has had this issue.
J
Thanks for the video post. That is the same one that I watched before I cleaned my valves the first time and I got through it with no issues. It was after this season when I cleaned them again and the inside valve turned after I removed the pin. As I stated before those auxiliary valves or whatever they are called do not get carboned up and sticky they are just oily like they should be for them to rotate with ease. I just thought I would put up a post for anyone that has had the same issue as I did and didn't want to remove a cylinder to fix the problem.
