What can you use for a clutch holding tool when removing a clutch ....

Dogmeat · Dec 16, 2008

...... if you don't actually have a clutch holding tool?

The only sleds I've ever pulled the clutches on were early 80's yamahas, and I remember we got the clutches off by just butting up a 2x4 against them and some point on the chassis, removing the bolt, putting the puller in, then we heated the clutch (which I know is a huge no no) ...

But I guess my question is what's wrong with using a 2x4 or a tiedown strap or whatnot? I mean do you HAVE to have a "real" clutch holding tool for this?

FatBoyzfrenchy · Dec 16, 2008

Here's my homemade solution, it works very well.
FBF

R J · Dec 16, 2008

I wedge something into the clutch open spaces and let it go against the belly pan etc to get it off. I'm sure that's not the best way but I don't need to do it all that often as I change weights and springs while it's in position. Never had a holding device. (meaning proper one from the OEM)

PalousePoo · Dec 16, 2008

I use an oil filter belt wrench. The strap is about 2 1/2" wide, and uses a 1/2" drive ratchet . The strap is barely long enough to reach around.

mad1818 · Dec 16, 2008

R J said:
I wedge something into the clutch open spaces and let it go against the belly pan etc to get it off. I'm sure that's not the best way but I don't need to do it all that often as I change weights and springs while it's in position. Never had a holding device. (meaning proper one from the OEM)

That's what I do to.

freak58trio · Dec 16, 2008

I usually use a tie down attached to the bumper seems to work well.

polaris bob · Dec 17, 2008

We use old hockey sticks thru the open part of the clutch.

Dogmeat · Dec 17, 2008

polaris bob said:
We use old hockey sticks thru the open part of the clutch.

perfect I got two broke ones right here that for some reason I had been saving ...now I know why

kane13 · Dec 17, 2008

I use a rubber oil filter wrench its got a long handle it won't scuff or mark the clutch, jamming things into your clutch is kinda a no no. that rmk 900 is torqued to 90 psi and bring along a long snipe or impact, they are very hard to remove if thats what you are taking it off.

scalded dog · Dec 17, 2008

i have used a piece of rope down the spark plug hole or a stick wedged in the clutch seem to work

Jonce · Dec 17, 2008

I use my old sway bar off a 2004 RMK 800 that I removed, works great.

CO 2.0 · Dec 17, 2008

I sheared a bolt straight in 1/2 when sticking an old tie rod through the clutch opening and resting against the belly pan. All the force was on one part of the clutch. Now I use a tie rod AND another straight piece and carefully position them both so the pressure points are distributed to two parts of the clutch, not just one.

CoyoteGirl · Dec 17, 2008

kane13 said:
that rmk 900 is torqued to 90 psi

I just heard an interesting tidbit about the torque specs on these 900s. Something about guys were turning the torque up to high when installing the clutch and THAT is why the crank shaft ends were failing. Turn them down to 60 and those that have done so have never had a crank issue.

Food for thought.

Anyone else hear something about this?

SledHed75 · Dec 17, 2008

CoyoteGirl said:
I just heard an interesting tidbit about the torque specs on these 900s. Something about guys were turning the torque up to high when installing the clutch and THAT is why the crank shaft ends were failing. Turn them down to 60 and those that have done so have never had a crank issue.

Food for thought.

Anyone else hear something about this?

Ya i have heard the same thing before. It actually makes sense

shortstop20 · Dec 17, 2008

800 VES motors had a torque spec of 45 ft. lbs and they still failed?

CO 2.0 · Dec 17, 2008

IndyDan told me to put the torque on my edge clutch bolt to 90 lb/ft!!! He was dead serious about it too and gave me a pretty good explanation...

Obviously this was on one of his rebuilt motors...

diamonddave · Dec 17, 2008

CoyoteGirl said:
I just heard an interesting tidbit about the torque specs on these 900s. Something about guys were turning the torque up to high when installing the clutch and THAT is why the crank shaft ends were failing. Turn them down to 60 and those that have done so have never had a crank issue.

Food for thought.

Anyone else hear something about this?

Actually, it's the other way around. The original spec of 48 or 50 some ft. lbs. wasn't enough for the big shaker. Because of a tapered crank, heat and vibration would cause the bolt to loosen and end up causing the crankshaft to SNAP!! So, Polaris raised the spec to 90 ft. lbs. The thing to watch out for though, is that the bolt wasn't designed for this kind of torque and can actually stretch. This is why replacing the bolt after a couple of on and off's is a MUST!!

FatBoyzfrenchy · Dec 17, 2008

Also check the big washer, it will cup with the torque and loosen the up.
It should be torqued at 96 ft/lb and retorqued regularely.
FBF

AdrenalineAddict · Dec 17, 2008

I had a mechanic in a high volume Polaris shop show me a little trick on the 800's anyway. You simply slip a socket 9/16" or 5/8" between the webbing on the back of the clutch and torquestop block on the cases, it makes for a solid anchor. The first few times I tried it I thought it might crack the webbing, but I've pulled hundreds since without any damage. I'm not sure this will work on the 900's.

Dogmeat · Dec 19, 2008

CoyoteGirl said:
I just heard an interesting tidbit about the torque specs on these 900s. Something about guys were turning the torque up to high when installing the clutch and THAT is why the crank shaft ends were failing. Turn them down to 60 and those that have done so have never had a crank issue.

Food for thought.

Anyone else hear something about this?

I have two reasons for wanting to remove my primary ...

The first being that I have an arctic cat clutch which was SUPPOSED to be torqued to 80-lbs. I told the dealer I had work on this sled to torque it to 80-lbs, but who the hell knows if they did or not? I've decided I'm never ever ever paying a dealer to work on a sled for me again, ever ... I dont trust them at all now.

That, and since I converted over to the AC clutch, the SLP shock tower vent rivets make it a ***** to get the belt on and off, so I wanna drill one of the rivets out and put it in backwards so the beveled end is facing the clutch ... gotta get the primary off to put a new rivet in though.

I think I'm just gonna order the right tool for the job and not risk screwing anything up.

What can you use for a clutch holding tool when removing a clutch ....

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