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Diesel vs. Gasoline: COST comparison.

Snowmow

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The rig I run has a m11 Cummins that powers everything. It was rebuilt, 30,000hrs ago. Doesn't burn any oil, starts without aid in -20-30°. Wyoming winters..... I don't get what all this BS is about unless you don't have anything better to do but let your truck burn fuel and warm up fully.

Engine hrs aren't without Penalty either. You guys can let your tucks get "hot" for an hour each time you start it. And still racking up engine hours and causing wear on your engine doing so.....I'll be making money for the next 45min while you wait for the oil to become protective.
 

Coldfinger

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From the 2016 Duramx owners manual supplement:

When the engine is cold, let it run for a few minutes before you move
the vehicle. This lets oil pressure build up. The engine will sound louder when it is cold.
 

Snowmow

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From the 2016 Duramx owners manual supplement:



When the engine is cold, let it run for a few minutes before you move

the vehicle. This lets oil pressure build up. The engine will sound louder when it is cold.



Yep. A few minutes. Not "until engine oil temp is "hot""
 

summ8rmk

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I could let my Ford sit for 60min idling or drive for 2min and get the same oil temp!
140° before programmer adds fuel so, thats when i start to really drive her.

GS6
 

Snowmow

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I could let my Ford sit for 60min idling or drive for 2min and get the same oil temp!
140° before programmer adds fuel so, thats when i start to really drive her.

GS6



Here's a rational thinker!

That's a nice feature that some of the tuners have.
 

sledheader

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Between a Rock and a Hard Place
Been driving diesels/equipment and pickups my entire life. Start it, let it idle until the oil pressure comes up then drive it easy. If I'm pulling a trailer I'll let it idle a few minutes on a cold morning but if it's empty kick it down the road and shift it low rpm until you get up to temp. When you let a diesel idle in real cold weather you'll get what's known as cylinder wash where you don't get total burn of the fuel and it washes the residual oil off of the cylinder walls resulting in scoring of the cylinders. That's why all the newer diesels automatically kick into high idle when they are cold


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Snowmow

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Been driving diesels/equipment and pickups my entire life. Start it, let it idle until the oil pressure comes up then drive it easy. If I'm pulling a trailer I'll let it idle a few minutes on a cold morning but if it's empty kick it down the road and shift it low rpm until you get up to temp. When you let a diesel idle in real cold weather you'll get what's known as cylinder wash where you don't get total burn of the fuel and it washes the residual oil off of the cylinder walls resulting in scoring of the cylinders. That's why all the newer diesels automatically kick into high idle when they are cold


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Exactly
 

christopher

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Are we?

Does oil not provide adequate protection against wear when not hot?

If it doesn't then what about all the other oiled parts of the truck??

Those other parts of the truck still deal with condensate moisture, contaminants etc.....

I will not waste my time letting the engine oil get HOT in anything. I will let the coolant temp get up to 165° or so before letting my Cummins engine rev above 2500rpms, in my personal truck

I'm coming from the aspect of a money making vehicle, the ones that get you to a job and get the job done without breaking down. If I let my crew trucks and rigs idle to the point of making sure the engine oil was up to temp, I'd have guys sitting around all day between the crew truck , rig, water truck, backhoe....... Have I ever had a lubrication based failure in the last 10+years on 4 drill rigs, 5 crew trucks, 5 backhoes, 4 water trucks, HELL NO! And we don't let the oil get "hot" before moving or running anything. A few min warm up
Is more than adequate... If I plan on full throttle the warm up time may be 20 min at idle. Then, Balls to the wall of needed

I am not sure we are talking about the same thing.
I am speaking to the fact that at SOME POINT the engine must be allowed to come up to full temp during the use cycle.
NOT that it needs to be fully hot before you use is.

The conversation was, what if I hop in my truck drive 2 miles and shut it off.
And then do that over and over and over again NEVER allowing the engine to really get fully hot, NEVER allowing the Engine Oil to get hot enough to begin to clean itself.

There are many days in the middle of winter when the temp is -15 that I drive my truck a grand total of only 4.4 miles (round trip) to the post office and back. Thats far enough for the water temp to come up and some warm air to begin flowing through the vents, but I am betting the Oil is NOT hot yet.

If I make that same SHORT run, day after day after day, without ever hoping on the highway for a 10-20 mile run, is that doing my diesel engine any good?
 
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sledheader

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I am not sure we are talking about the same thing.
I am speaking to the fact that at SOME POINT the engine must be allowed to come up to full temp during the use cycle.
NOT that it needs to be fully hot before you use is.

The conversation was, what if I hop in my truck drive 2 miles and shut it off.
And then do that over and over and over again NEVER allowing the engine to really get fully hot, NEVER allowing the Engine Oil to get hot enough to begin to clean itself.

There are many days where I drive my truck a grand total of only 4.4 miles to the post office and back. Thats far enough for the water temp to come up and some warm air to begin flowing through the vents, but I am betting the Oil is NOT hot yet.

If I make that same SHORT run, day after day after day, without ever hoping on the highway for a 10-20 mile run, is that doing my diesel engine any good?

The answer is, that's not doing any engine any good. With the new injection systems these days, I would argue that it isn't any harming a modern diesel any more than it is a gas
 

summ8rmk

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The answer is, that's not doing any engine any good. With the new injection systems these days, I would argue that it isn't any harming a modern diesel any more than it is a gas
I agree.
Fuel economy is not good during warm up on any engine, u will see that with short trips.

GS6
 

christopher

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The answer is, that's not doing any engine any good. With the new injection systems these days, I would argue that it isn't any harming a modern diesel any more than it is a gas
Time for a disposable Geo Metro like TurboLover has

metro1.jpg
 

sledjunky_86

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A new gasser from any of the brands is going to get less than 10 miles to the gallon pulling a decent size trailer anywhere in the mountains which is where your headed I'm guessing. Diesels use torque not horsepower, obviously why they last longer because they use lower rpms. Maintenance is way more expensive on a diesel, whether you are leaving emissions intact on a diesel is the question. New diesels from 2008-present will get **** fuel mileage until they are deleted, I have a 14 megacab with a Cummins with 37's and pull a 32ft gooseneck that I get 12-15mpg, not pulling I get between 16-18mpg. Between the the lift, wider tires, wider footprint, exhaust brake, sway control, and a bunch of other built in features I feel completely in control no matter what kind of driving conditions I am in and that means a lot to me. Lots of people will tell you to keep your truck stock for the warranty, WORST advice ever!!! I have had 5 different diesels 2 duramaxes and 3 Cummins for a total of 500,000 miles and have never had a $9000 repair bill, never had any problems with any of them but this was because I removed the stock emissions equipment, that is what causes these trucks to need a warranty. Diesels do require more attention then a gasser, no you can't just jump in them, start and go. As far as warming them up they need more than 2-3 minutes in the winter, that's the problem with the new diesel trucks with emissions equipment, they recycle all the exhaust back into the motor as they are warmed up causing soot issues, which in turns clogs the egr...turbo...DPF....etc...etc.. Yes the dealer will warranty it all because they have to but after your warranty is up you will be paying lots of money for these repairs. The high idle comes on right away to warm the truck up faster to try to prevent these problems, is it good for your motor, hell no! With emissions equipment off you can allow the truck to idle as long as it needs to warm up properly, get way better fuel economy and avoid the dealership for warranty work completely. I deleted both of my brand new mega cabs with less than 1000 miles on them, have never had any problems with them but I take care of them - proper warm ups, synthetic oils, diesel treatment in every tank of fuel, religious service intervals, and I drive like I am white. I also prefer the way a diesel pulls/drives, I don't like the fact that gassers with or without the cruise control on requires the transmission to downshift sometimes very violently. Like a few others have said set the cruise with a diesel at 80 and you won't have to touch it. As far as winter driving conditions, while pulling your trailer up an icy pass do you want your gasser to downshift and send you sideways into the ditch or pull the pass at 20 miles an hour so it won't down shift or would you like a diesel truck that is in control all the time? The way it sounds your going to keep the truck along time so spend the money on a quality diesel, delete the stock emissions BS take care of it and love your diesel. I am a Ram diesel guy but the 17 ford is going to be a beast, so buy one!
 

Butta

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That's all fine and dandy until you consider those who live in areas where you have emissions testing. It sucks. Sure, you can delete it and not have to worry about it for the first 4 years (first 4 years are waived), but then it's not sellable like that and you have a problem the 5th year when you go to get it tested. I love my '13 Duramax, and it's 100% stock. Drive it right, take care of it, and it will treat you well.
 

christopher

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That's all fine and dandy until you consider those who live in areas where you have emissions testing. It sucks. Sure, you can delete it and not have to worry about it for the first 4 years (first 4 years are waived), but then it's not sellable like that and you have a problem the 5th year when you go to get it tested. I love my '13 Duramax, and it's 100% stock. Drive it right, take care of it, and it will treat you well.
I remember the nightmare that Boulder Colorado was.
It was SOOOO nice moving to IDAHO!!
 

Chewy22

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In the 1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton truck debate I don't even consider the 1/2 tons. I want solid axles and decent ground clearance. The pic I posted has the lifted 3/4 ton pushing snow with the bumper... I haven't ever bought a 1/2 truck because if I need a truck, I want a truck, not something designed to make people feel like they are in a car.


The 3/4 ton will be more stable towing partly because of sheer weight. It will have better brakes and suspension for the load.


I would get the F250 gasser over the 6.7 unless the thought of the engine howling up the passes disturbs you. All of the gassers are going to do that. They need rpm to make power. Wont hurt them, it is just different.


I would get the F250 over the F150 for previously mentioned reasons. I would get the 6.4 Ram over any of them, oh wait, I did.


Power Wagon rescues F250 6.7 on forest service road...







The tow and payload rating on the power wagon is less then most half tons.
 

Goinboardin

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^^ That's interesting. Power Wagon have soft springs or something? I thought they were geared deep from the factory, with full float rear axle? .
 
J

Jaynelson

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I would love to own a diesel pickup, but simply don't have the time. It seems once you own one...you really need to commit serious time telling everyone on the Internet and facebook how amazing it is, making up mileage stats, and also spend a lot of money to make it obnoxiously loud and nearly as fast as a v6 minivan. Just can't pencil all that into the sched Ya know ?
 
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