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how to install a furnace in an enclosed trailer

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IDspud

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Nov 26, 2007
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I installed an atwood 30,000 on the floor at the front of my trailer, along the wall where your sleds never roam. I simply turned the heater vertical and cut a 3" x 4" hole in the floor to vent and pull fresh air through their dual vent. Needs no ducting as the fan blows from the bottom of the trailer to the rear. (hot air rises, why start high, then plumb it back down) Enclosed it in a cabinet which removes with two screws to provide full access for service.

As for clearance of small bottles on the hitch, I priced an underbelly tank, vs an electric jack. Went with the electric jack which allowed enough clearance to mount bottles without crank contact. I have been very pleased, they also include a topwind crank incase of motor failure on the jack. Six years with no electric jack issues.
 
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Jeff800

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Dec 2, 2007
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That would be you " MtnSnowAdventures " if those are pictures of your trailer with all the diamond plate cabinets.
Thanks
 
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MarleneeSteven

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Aug 17, 2009
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www.mountainsnowadventures.com
Click Here for a PDF of the wiring diagram of my trailer. I realize that I left the wiring off for the stereo, but i've placed a basic P&ID and a more practical drawing on the trailer. Let me know if this helps or you have any other questions.

Also, I ran an individual +/- wire for each item, except the lights are all on one circuit, and I used a little heavier wire.
 
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turboxp

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May 13, 2008
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not where i sled
I have never seen one of those rv furnaces work yet. If you want the trailer to be dry put a furnace in that move air. This is a 75,000 btu furnace. 4 sleds and all the gear dry every morning and the trailer floor with no moisture on it.

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cwbyup_22

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I have never seen one of those rv furnaces work yet. If you want the trailer to be dry put a furnace in that move air. This is a 75,000 btu furnace. 4 sleds and all the gear dry every morning and the trailer floor with no moisture on it.

I have installed two Atwood rv furnaces in two different trailers and both of them have worked flawlessly they work clear up over 8000ft and keep the trailer warm and dry. One of the furnaces like you have would do me no good because the only place i have 120 is when the trailer is sitting at my house

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
 

jokerman

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Have a 35,000btu surburban rv furnace in a 28"trailer,live @7220' start riden above 8000' never an issue,will run you out on the coldest of days:rockon:
 
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Jordo

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Nov 3, 2009
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Stillwater,MN
I'm starting to getting into the sledding mood and I'm going to install a 30K BTU suburban furnace in my 30' Pace and just woundering if anyone has installed a furnace in a strait front car hauler before? Also would a roof top AC/ Heater unit be worth it,or has anyone done it?
 
X
Oct 4, 2010
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Mad Town,WI
What kind of propane lines to use?

Great info guys!
I just picked up a Atwood 8012-II furnace and a horizontal mount propane trailer off Craigslist. I'm planning out my installation right now. The propane tank will be mounted underneath. I am trying to figure out what kind of propane lines to use underneath the trailer?

Info I have gathered so far:
I guess the old rvs used soft copper, but I think everyone now is installing black iron pipe underneath the trailer, ran to flexible or soft copper inside. Or other option is the marine grade lpg tubing since that stuff resists vibrations, Compared to the cheap regular bbq propane hoses. The marine grade lpg looks to be $3.50 a ft though. I might just use black iron pipe since it's much cheaper, but it will be more connections.
I've read people don't use soft copper underneath, since it's easy to puncture if it gets hit. Some have used wire loom, or garden hose as protection, but is not recommended.
What are you guys using?
 

wiseguy

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Oct 29, 2009
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This is what I used, a direct vent heater from Eskabe. It works great. I used 1/2" stainless steel tubing for the lines and mounted my tanks in the front "V".
The tanks have a cover that go around them and the floor has two 2" vents in it, just in case of a leak. I've had no problems with anything. Going to install a forced air heater in the trailer as well. It will be used to dry clothing and gear. The only I'm doing this is because I'm getting the heater real cheap.

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S
Sep 14, 2010
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where ever I am
This is what I used, a direct vent heater from Eskabe. It works great. I used 1/2" stainless steel tubing for the lines and mounted my tanks in the front "V".
The tanks have a cover that go around them and the floor has two 2" vents in it, just in case of a leak. I've had no problems with anything. Going to install a forced air heater in the trailer as well. It will be used to dry clothing and gear. The only I'm doing this is because I'm getting the heater real cheap.

The valve, tube and fittings cost more than your heater, nice job.
 
X
Oct 4, 2010
55
26
18
Mad Town,WI
Thanks for the info. Just figuring out the length of copper needed. When I mount my propane tank underneath, I can slide it a little more to the right side of trailer(heater on right side of trailer). I shouldn't need more then 5ft of exposed outside copper to run it up inside the trailer. From inside I can just run the soft copper. Grommets is the way to go to enter the pipe inside! I might just buy the Marine Grade LPG. It is $4.00 per ft, but I only need 5ft max. I feel a little safer with that, and might as well since I'm doing a new install.
 
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Jordo

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Nov 3, 2009
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Stillwater,MN
Ok I just bought a 30K BTU Suburban furnace and I'm just looking for ideas on how you guys ducted and what you have used for your ducted work?
 
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Jordo

Active member
Nov 3, 2009
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Stillwater,MN
I'm thinking about getting some metal bent up and run it about 2ft of the ground and have vents towards the ground.
 
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