Manual chain tensioner install

So I installed my cat manual chain tensioner today and thought I would post a little how to so others can save some time.

Parts Required:
2602-465 adjuster block
0123-150 nut
1602-101 screw cap
1702-261 arm tensioner

One tool that makes this easier is an right angle drill.

Before starting this job you may want to eyeball how much clearance you have to your silencer. The bolt for the adjuster sticks out a bit and may interfere with the silincer. My MBRP can fits fine and I could adjust the tensioner with it on but taking it off makes it a lot easier.

Remover the chain case cover, gears, chain and auto tensioner.

Thread the bolt for the manual adjuster backwards through the aluminum block.
Place the block into it's slot in the case and snug the bolt up against the case. When you are doing this make sure the block is in snug up against the case. If not the hole will be a little to close to the outside edge. This will cause grief which I will discuss latter.
Tap the bolt with a small hammer to make a mark.
Loosen bolt remove block and make sure you have a mark you can see.
Center punch small divit.
Use a right angle drill and drill a small hole. It was tight with the electric 3/8 drill I used but a small dia bit allowed for a straight hole. An air drill would likely fit easier.
With the small hole drilled, enlarge the hole to 3/8 from the outside
Re install gears and chain
Install manual adjuster
THIS PARTS IMPORTANT - Place the cover back on. Make sure it fits flat all the way around. There should be no gap. If there is a gap the bolt hole you drilled is a little to close to the edge. DO NOT THINK YOU CAN JUST SNUG THIS UP. THE CASE WILL BREAK. (no I didn't break mine) Now you will have to file down the retainier/spacer on the cover that keeps the aluminum adjuster block in place. This is best done with a small flat file. File some off both the long section and the short section and then put the cover back on. You can tell you got enough off if the cover sits flat against case and you can wiggle the block with the adjuster bolt after the case cover is bolted back on.
Bolt up the cover - a good idea is to check the case bolts for loose bits of aluminum and blow out the bolt holes. The self tapping bolts they use are **** and can leave bits of aluminum that will bind up.
Adjust the chain tensioner - finger tight, then snug up lock nut.
Add your oil and your good to go.

Janne-Setä said:

Nice story. What do you think will happen if you use reverse when the chain happens to be a little loose? The plastic slider will flip upside down and the chain is going to rub agaist the tensioner frame. I highly recommend you take it apart and weld similar stopper like the lower one. I cut the rod from a 6mm bolt. This tensioner is from the sno pro racer, it doesn't have reverse. I can post a picture if you want.

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This set up has been installed many times on 800's, never heard of that happening once.

I was getting ratcheting. When i checked the chain i found a broken link. To eliminate the tensioner as a source of potential ratcheting I installed the manual tensioner. Plus the auto is just plain junk. If you can't keep a chain adjusted properly you shouldn't be rideing a sled anyhow.
Anyhow, was out this moring for a few hours in about 3 ft of fresh light to heavy snow. I hammered that sled as hard as I could into turns and onto hills and no ratcheting. Every time I expected it to ratchet it didn't. So looks like in my case the auto tensioner was letting the chain jump.

RickM said:

Looking at the photos with the adjuster bolt installed.
My question is, Does the jamb nut have room to fit flush up against
the out side of the chain case where you drill your adjuster hole?

I could not tell from the photos. Looks like a good fix that needs to
be done this spring. Thanks for any input. RickM

Click to expand...

Yes it does. Only clearance issue may be the ability to adjust chain tension with differant cans. that would just mean removing the can to adjust the chain.