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Anyone run a CVTech Powerbloc 80?
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I tend to agree, but the (limited) Doo reviews seem to like them.
I have one (CV Tech, Power Block 80) on a 15' Proclimb, smooth as silk take off, less belt heat, way less rotating mass which translates to way better throttle response, holds rpms way better in different conditions, and altitudes than any clutch I have ever had (Polaris, Cat, Skidoo and even Yamaha which I felt has the best factory clutches and belt) I ran the powerbloc clutch last year for a few rides at the end of the season after my Arctic CRAP clutch scattered and I was very impressed. This year I took off the Arctic CRAP secondary and put on a Team Tied and this sled now works the way it should have from the factory. I mostly Boondock, and when you need that quick punch to jump a creek, crank it around a tree or jump over a snow pillow, ITS INSTANT ON :face-icon-small-hap. My kid has the same sled (still with Arctic CRAP clutches) and there is NO COMPARISON in throttle response, rpm's holding in diffrent conditions and altitudes as well as belt heat. I am considering a new 18' Cat and I do think the new clutch set up it comes with will be good, but I may (if they are the same shafts) swap my set up over to the new Cat.
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Where did you source yours? Does it fit inside the panels? It appears to be much wider than stock from the images.
Bought it from CV Tech, this clutch is way smaller than stock which makes taking the belt off way easier too. (The diameter of the sheaves is the same though) When I got it , me and my buddies all laughed at how small and simple it was. There is only 3 sliding blocks inside and they just sit in the clutch, they are not hooked to anything. I put the clutch on with the calibration they sent and it was spot on. I since have a pipe and added 3 washers to each sliding puck and the rpm holds 8150 plus or minus 50 at 2200' to 6500' cold weather or warm, hard pack or powder. Clutch was around 750 dollars and I would buy it again in a heart beat!!!!!!!!!!
As a side note, with the Cat clutches my belts (I say belts, because I blew a few) were always shiny and glazes and almost had like a silver tinge to them, which means heat stress, and I tried lots of diffrent clutching including a torsional spring set up in the seconday (which did help, but your reverse doesn't work as good) now with this set up, my belt is green on the sides which I thought was weird but, some guys say this is how a Cat belt looks when they are not being over heated. (Not sure if thats true, but its green on both sides) and I haven't blown a belt all year, and my riding style hasn't changed but, I am laying more power to the ground.
As a side note, with the Cat clutches my belts (I say belts, because I blew a few) were always shiny and glazes and almost had like a silver tinge to them, which means heat stress, and I tried lots of diffrent clutching including a torsional spring set up in the seconday (which did help, but your reverse doesn't work as good) now with this set up, my belt is green on the sides which I thought was weird but, some guys say this is how a Cat belt looks when they are not being over heated. (Not sure if thats true, but its green on both sides) and I haven't blown a belt all year, and my riding style hasn't changed but, I am laying more power to the ground.
Oh yea, there is always Bad with the good.
1 - Buy their clutch tool to hold the clutch if you need to remove it or want to change the weight of the pucks or change the spring. There is NOTHING on this clutch to grab onto to hold it (except the wrench the have)
2 - I don't remeber the exact weight but, I did weigh it against the Cat clutch and it was like 5Lbs lighter. This is great for overall weight savings of the sled, great for handling enertia, EXTREMELY GREAT for throttle response. Truth be told though, because it is so much lighter, once in a awhile when you push the reverse button the motor will shut off due to the lack of mass (Flywheel effect). Just wanted to put that out there, but it rarely happens and I will gladly take these 2 issues for the overall gains.
1 - Buy their clutch tool to hold the clutch if you need to remove it or want to change the weight of the pucks or change the spring. There is NOTHING on this clutch to grab onto to hold it (except the wrench the have)
2 - I don't remeber the exact weight but, I did weigh it against the Cat clutch and it was like 5Lbs lighter. This is great for overall weight savings of the sled, great for handling enertia, EXTREMELY GREAT for throttle response. Truth be told though, because it is so much lighter, once in a awhile when you push the reverse button the motor will shut off due to the lack of mass (Flywheel effect). Just wanted to put that out there, but it rarely happens and I will gladly take these 2 issues for the overall gains.
Just to add, if you have seen the video on You Tube with the 2 skidoos racing and they were virtually even then they put this clutch on one and it pulled away from the stock one. This was my results as well.
My brother has a 16' with a 3" 153, he weighs about 25Lbs less then me but he has elec. start and battery, I don't. I have a 153 but only 2.6 track (Stock pipe on at this point) and when we lined up on spring snow that we were digging down about 1 foot on take off. Every run I would start pulling away right from the start, Just like the video of the 2 doo's. His sled is stock with the team clutches.
I find with this clutch, it builds more speed in a shorter distance, which is a very good thing when boondocking. Its the smoothest engaging clutch I have ever seen, which makes taking off in powder way easier or sneaking around a tree it tight quarters. Mine engages around 32-3300Rpm
My brother has a 16' with a 3" 153, he weighs about 25Lbs less then me but he has elec. start and battery, I don't. I have a 153 but only 2.6 track (Stock pipe on at this point) and when we lined up on spring snow that we were digging down about 1 foot on take off. Every run I would start pulling away right from the start, Just like the video of the 2 doo's. His sled is stock with the team clutches.
I find with this clutch, it builds more speed in a shorter distance, which is a very good thing when boondocking. Its the smoothest engaging clutch I have ever seen, which makes taking off in powder way easier or sneaking around a tree it tight quarters. Mine engages around 32-3300Rpm
If you haven't already figured out that I'm sold on these clutches, Arctc Cat did warranty my blown primary, I never installed it, I put this power bloc clutch on and was blown away with how it works and sold the brand new warrantied clutch, still in the shipping box, unopened, for 450 dollars Canadian (they are over 700 dollars new Canadian plus tax) and felt BAD for ripping the guy off...................
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Ive messed with one for just a little bit. Got frustrated with it. Backshift was and still is horrible(ski doo 600ho). But as stated. Instant throttle with these things. They are extremely simple and really dont wear out like a normal clutch.
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No they are super simple. I could just never get consistent backshift out of it. No one in our group has. Seems like the secondary needs to be sprung super tight(power loss in my mind) Which makes you add more weight(also power loss). We are going to try a cat 9 tower with a doo taper so If that doesnt pan out I might try making the pblock work.
But I have seen many people use them on the 1200 ski doos. And cleary snowfever has gotten his to work so it must be something im doing wrong.
But I have seen many people use them on the 1200 ski doos. And cleary snowfever has gotten his to work so it must be something im doing wrong.
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Anyone know if they make a pb80 for a ctec 2? I have a 14 m6000 and would like to nail the clutching down. Sounds like I should sell my secondary as well and get a Team tied secondary.
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It may be worth contacting CVTech directly to confirm if they fit the ctech. I would have to assume they would.
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ya not a bad idea.
anyone have insight on the secondary that came stock on the 14 cat M6000?
seems like i have three options for low elevation riding
1. Stock 14 secondary with Driven Cam - 42/40°
2. Stock 14 secondary with BMP's torsion conversion kit
3. Team tied secondary
any thoughts?
anyone have insight on the secondary that came stock on the 14 cat M6000?
seems like i have three options for low elevation riding
1. Stock 14 secondary with Driven Cam - 42/40°
2. Stock 14 secondary with BMP's torsion conversion kit
3. Team tied secondary
any thoughts?
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Only that I've heard the secondary is much of an anchor on performance, a well-built stock can be as good as a tied secondary.
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My sled is 100% stock clutches have 0 miles on them
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