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Clutching help

M
Feb 13, 2017
7
1
3
I have a 2014 M8 162. A stock sled aside from a mbrp can. I wanted to lower my Engagement into the mid to high 3000's
A mechanic set me up with a black/silver (110-290) primary spring. I pulled the stock yellow/white(122-285) it was engaging 4400 ish. I was surprised when the black/silver only dropped engagement to 4200. Primary is clean 68gm weights are good , everything slides good. Can anyone make suggestion as to why it isn't engaging at the 3500-3700rpm as indicated by others using the same setup?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
M
Feb 13, 2017
7
1
3
I have a 2014 M8 162. A stock sled aside from a mbrp can. I wanted to lower my Engagement into the mid to high 3000's
A mechanic set me up with a black/silver (110-290) primary spring. I pulled the stock yellow/white(122-285) it was engaging 4400 ish. I was surprised when the black/silver only dropped engagement to 4200. Primary is clean 68gm weights are good , everything slides good. Can anyone make suggestion as to why it isn't engaging at the 3500-3700rpm as indicated by others using the same setup?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
M
Feb 13, 2017
7
1
3
Checked deflection and it's good. Belt is ridong nice in the secondary I switched back to yellow white spring .. engages around 4400 ish . I switched back again to the black/silver and engaging at 4200rpm. While I had the spring out in checked the primary again for any issues and everything appears sound straight smooth and tight. I guess I'll try a different spring weight to see what results I get from that. The yellow/white seems to be engaging at the rpm one would expect it to.
Any other ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 

Vern

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Jun 14, 2004
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Weird, I'm using the same spring (black silver 110/290) with stock 68g weights and mine engages smooth as butter at about 3500rpm. Don't know if it would cause that much difference, but are your weight pins tightened all the way down squeezing the o rings into the sheave? I loosen mine up until the weight swings freely but has no side to side play.
 

Frostbite

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Dec 15, 2007
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Eastern Washington
The bolts on your clutch weights may be to tight. The weights should pivot freely. If they are tight, it takes a lot of centrifugal force to get them to move.
 

Frostbite

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Dec 15, 2007
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Eastern Washington
Readymedic is right about the Go rings. I would struggle to get my clutch weight O rings just right, not to tight, not too lose. With the Go Rings, they are round on one side and flat on the other so they fit the recesses on the Cat primary just right and allow your clutch weights to swing freely, and best of all, they are cheap.
 

line8

Well-known member
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Feb 20, 2008
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West of East
I just had this similar problem. Only difference was when mine engaged, it really hit. I had a binding spring and a sticky roller. But there was a suggestion on here to look into thunder products-911 cover, glide washers and the go rings. I put all of them on and the results are great. Engages at right around 3900, 4000, 4100 and is extremely smooth. No more snap just great smooth down low power


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

GBrown

Member
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Dec 5, 2007
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Another recommendation for the GO-Rings, also the Thunder Products ABC clutch bolt is great for helping with this problem as well. I have the Speedwerx H5 125-340 primary spring and stock weights and engagement is very smooth after installing those two products.
 
O
Dec 9, 2010
240
33
28
34
High falls, NY
Another recommendation for the GO-Rings, also the Thunder Products ABC clutch bolt is great for helping with this problem as well. I have the Speedwerx H5 125-340 primary spring and stock weights and engagement is very smooth after installing those two products.

What color is the 125-340 spring you're running? Also is your sled stock ?
 
M
Feb 13, 2017
7
1
3
I made sure everything is good went riding this weekend up the coquihalla . Seemed to engage around 37-39 but the odd time I would notice it engaging around 4100 ish . Wasn't hitting hard or anything. On a side note, I managed to somehow break my lower steering post mount point just below where the tie rods connect ( aluminum bracket) looks like possible stress Crack that decided to let go at the very end of the day . so I have bigger issues now. I have to get the front end ripped apart and it doesn't look fun
Wish me luck .
 

Vern

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Jun 14, 2004
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hyrum utah
That's a common issue, cat sells an updated bracket for like $25. The bracket was cheap enough I have one sitting on my shelf waiting for when I need it or summer to come, whichever comes first.

Also supposedly you can replace the bracket through the tierod whole behind the rubber boot on the right side without tearing the whole front end apart.
 

GBrown

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Dec 5, 2007
133
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Also supposedly you can replace the bracket through the tierod whole behind the rubber boot on the right side without tearing the whole front end apart.

Yes, you can change out the bracket parts by just removing the boot on the right side. No need tear the whole front end apart.
 
M
Feb 13, 2017
7
1
3
After digging in and doing some flashlight/ camera exploration I figured out how to remove the brackets. And then found a tonne of info on how it's a weak point on the 12-14 models. Once I discovered the threads it all became easier . Thanks for the info . Ordered parts Sunday from country cat and they shipped today That's service!
 
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