Sled starts and Immediately Dies When Engine is Warm

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

I have a 2015 800 Proclimb that starts just fine when cold. However, when warm and after a short break, more times than not, it will fire right up and immediately die with the speedometer needle staying in the pegged position. Then for about 2-3 minutes you can pull all you want, it's not going to start. Then after about 3-4 minutes, it will fire up like nothing happened and run just fine. Now, every time our group stops everyone else in the group has to wait to see if my sled will start and stay running. It's embarrassing.

I have tried insulating my fuel lines (they are all wrapped in heat wrap). I also added a heat shield between the Y pipe and the fuel injectors thinking maybe I had a vapor lock scenario going on, and it doesn't seem to help. I changed the plugs, I have even tried a brand new ECU and it does the same thing.

So, I am thinking it could be a throttle safety switch but, what would that have to do with my 2-3 minute wait? It could be a plugged tank vent, maybe? How do I check that? What am I missing?

Any help you could provide would be appreciated.

F7arcticcat · Jan 22, 2017

Make sure the throttle cable isnt to tight, I had the same issue when I would bump the tether, loosened the throttle and no issues since.

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks F7arcticcat, I will check it out but, I'm not sure how tight is too tight. I think the throttle cable is actually pretty lose.

dunatyk · Jan 22, 2017

Is it stock?

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

Oh, sorry I forgot to add the mods. The sled has a SLP single pipe kit and yes there is a Power Commander V installed. That could be the issue to I suppose. I had this type of issue on my 09 M8 and once I updated the firmware the issue went away. I'll have to see if there is a firmware update for the Power Commander V.

I also still have a left handed throttle on the sled (that I am still weaning myslef off of) that I suppose could be causing an issue.

I also have the blue and purple/red wires spliced for a tether but not currently wired in.

Could the baro tube routing be an issue?

dunatyk · Jan 22, 2017

I had a 2010 with a Speedwerx single and a PCV that would do that. The only thing I could figure is it was heat soaking the motor and kind of like on the first M-turbos when you shut it off it would be heat soaked and not want to start because water temp was high. However I had a 2012 with full SLP setup pipe porting etc and it ripped and never hiccuped. So that may be something else to look at

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

Huh, a high water temp could be the issue. I did go to a 3" track but, I also had the problem last season with the 2.6" installed.

Is there a way to tell the water temperature or remedy that, if it is the issue?

WhiskeyTee · Jan 22, 2017

Do you let the idle settle and stabilize before you shut it down. Maybe 5-10 seconds with a quick blip of the throttle in there? My M6000 is hard to re-start when warm/hot if i dont let the idle stabilize as mentioned prior to shut down. Has become habit now and have not experienced any problems with my new MC.

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

Yes, I would say 9 out of 10 times I remember to wait for the idle to stabilize and drop back down to a normal idle. I remember reading before that it helps with the issue.

clutch · Jan 22, 2017

When its warm, just barely crack the throttle when you start it. If I try to start mine warm without doing that it will do what you describe.:face-icon-small-dis

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

Yes, I have tried that just about every time and it still doesn't want to start. :noidea:

blackjack85335 · Jan 22, 2017

Fuel pump connector?

My 08 m8 had similar issue. Turned out to be bad connection at fuel pump connector. Cut factor plastic connector off and used connector I could seperate if needed.did this after expensive trip to dealer couldn't find problem. Never had a problem again. Stock connector was bum.

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

I will check the connection. Thanks

rbblrsn · Jan 22, 2017

Working through a similar issue with my 2013 Proclimb, starts up fine cold and even if warm after brief shutdown. But if we stop for lunch it won't fire. The only thing that has been effective is to disconnect the big hood connector, after a couple of pulls it will start. When this happens it has good spark but no fire, so seems like a fuel issue.been suspecting a bad air temperature sensor but that's just a theory so far.

Frostbite · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks for the great tip! Keep them coming guys!

WyoBoy1000 · Jan 23, 2017

Unplugging hood will slightly increase fuel. Not much though.
Try putting some startron "enzyme" fuel treatment in.

Frostbite · Jan 23, 2017

Thanks Wyoboy1000, I have been running Seafoam in the tank every other tank. I appreciate the tip.

Chewy22 · Jan 23, 2017

Frostbite said:
Thanks Wyoboy1000, I have been running Seafoam in the tank every other tank. I appreciate the tip.

Not apples to apples, but my 09 YZ450F hates Seafoam. I put it in last tank before storing for the winter, then drain the tank come spring.

WyoBoy1000 · Jan 23, 2017

Seafoam is good for some thing, not for what your doing though

yz250_ · Jan 24, 2017

My wife's 15 hcr has been doing the same thing. It now just threw an ecu17 code which is exhaust temp sensor. I will replace that amd hopefully it fixes it.

Sled starts and Immediately Dies When Engine is Warm

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads