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'11 Etec Y-Pipe, Can, Clutching Review

L

LSB

Well-known member
Not going to make a long thread, just wanted to post a positive review of a few different products.

Ive got an 11 Etec and ride from 8k on up. Ive slowly but surely been changing things on it one thing at a time. Ive got it (the clutching) now where it holds 8000, gets there quicker, and pulls harder, on the hill where it matters AND feels very good to me, and that's what is most important.

Some of the two most recent additions I made were the y-pipe and powder-lite can from BMP. I went ahead and put them both on at the same time instead of one at a time but now do not regret that decision. The can is quite a bit louder than stock especially at WOT, which I don't necessarily prefer but decided to stick with it due to the considerable weight loss. The can fits great on my sled.

The Y-pipe simply smooths out the stock dents in the pipe and perhaps adds some volume or ability to flow better. Results are what matters though and after the installation without changing anything else, I am now bouncing off the rev limiter on wot pulls on the trail. You pin it, it screams to 8, past 8, then bounces down to 7500 or so and then pulls back up like a train. Again I already had my clutching dialed and so use that as my gauge for gain or loss.

On more loaded pulls I do not hit the limiter as hard but have seen an increase in rpms. I will be adding weight to correct.

Hope this is helpful.
 
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L

LSB

Well-known member
For 99% of people the stock clutching probably isn't that far off. It will get you by pretty darn good in most conditions. That is after all what they designed it for, to operate well (not perfect) in a variety of conditions.

You can improve upon it if you decide to clutch strictly for a certain type of style you ride. I chose to improve upon, high altitude, boon-docking, deep powder, that type of thing. I'm sure someone wanting to strictly climb hills could differ some from what I am using.

Ive changed gearing, primary spring, added weight, and new helix. I have ramps on order and am interested to see how they perform. I'll report on those when I get them.
 
G
Dec 1, 2007
137
17
18
71
Minnesota
Your clutching?

If your pulling down on your RPM that much your clutching is way off. It should go to 8100-8200 and stay pretty much there. Try a 160-350 primary spring and add some pin weight. Shoot for 4 or 5 on your clickers. What helix are you running? The reverse angle stock helix sucks. Straight 44's run pretty well.
Just a thought!
 
E

Ed Fast

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2004
690
88
28
40
Gillette WYO
clutch

I have been bumping of the rev limiter I think. I stab it and hit 8000-8100 then it slowly back down to 7400ish. I need to go the other way with my clickers. Just has so much bottom that it pulls hard. I have got the clutch hot a few times would like to drop some heat and get more power to the ground.
 
L

LSB

Well-known member
gatewest you misunderstood. On a hill or with a load its fine. It goes to right about 8 and stays there or quickly recovers as load or throttle changes. On the road it over revs and then almost shuts down for a sec then strongly climbs back up.

Its not a slow loss of rpm's as you are thinking about. I dont have stock helix, or pretty much anything stock remaining.

Ed Fast seems to be describing the situation you are talking about gatewest, where he hits 8000 but then falls off.
 
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