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Tig Welder, Any one have one or Suggestions

wildcard28

Well-known member
Dec 18, 2007
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Clarkston WA
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Hello everyone I am in the market for a good starter unit Tig Welder, Anyone have one or any suggestion to a good unit to look at or purchase.

I will be welding aluminum and chromoly and mildsteet under 3/16 wall and would like to try my hand at some stainless too.

Again , any advice or suggestion to a good unit, I know Miller and Hobart are key names but anyone have possibly a inexpensive unit that been doing them well?

I`ll throw this one out there, but has anyone had good luck in a Harbor Freight one that could use a Foot Pedal? I would like a better unit than this but could possibly consider one if anyone has good reviews.

Thanks, Darren
 
O
Jan 14, 2008
50
1
8
Western WA
Tig

Id try the Miller Syncrowave 180. Thats what I started on. Its a 208v and also does stick. Not overly big and at a reasonable price. Should be just fine for what you are doing
 

skyman

Member
Premium Member
Mar 31, 2008
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18
x2 on the dynasty a little spendy but you wont find a better machine it's one of the best for aluminum.
 

wildcard28

Well-known member
Dec 18, 2007
1,477
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Clarkston WA
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I got a pm from a gut tellin me about the Longevity Welders anyone else have an experience in these, the machines sounded cool, combo units like tig,stick,plasma all same unit.

Is it hard to tig on a machine with no foot control?

Thanks for all the infor so far, Darren
 
M

mngoat

Active member
Nov 26, 2007
434
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Minnesota
Looking at selling my miller syncrowave 200 with running gear. Just looking to downsize D/T garage space. Has only a few hours on it. Like new. Only problem is that it's in Minnesota and your in Washington :(

Like Highmark said it is a great welder.
 

highmtn

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Lifetime Membership
Dec 2, 2007
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Kelso WA
you'll always be able to get parts and comsumables for Miller or Lincoln. I have a Syncrowave 180 that does a very nice job on thinner metals. I would like to move up to a 250 with a water cooled torch though.
 
P
Dec 7, 2007
456
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Mill Creek, WA
learned from experience

Since you asked for recommendations:

When it comes to welders, I recommend that you decide what machine is the largest you would ever use, then buy one size up from that. You'd be surprised how much happier you will be. Find a used one that follows that rule, and you'll pay less than a new one of the size you 'think' you want. Stick with a large brand, (I'm very pleased with my miller products) and you will always be able to buy the consumable and wearable parts.

I do not own a TIG....yet. I bought a millermatic 251 4 years ago, and thought I only wanted a 210, but could get by with a 185. I'm so very happy I did get that 251.
 
R
Is it hard to tig on a machine with no foot control?
Darren


well you can do SS and mild steel without a foot pedal using the scratch start,but if you wanna weld aluminum you NEED the foot pedal with AC Hi Freq. With aluminum your tungsten can't touch the work like you can with SS and MS....The Hi Freq lets you keep your tungsten away from the work when you press the pedal it sends a freq to the work and away you go.Just remember with aluminum it takes alot of heat to break the oxide layer,once that breaks your good

If your gonna weld SS and MS you don't need the pedal but as you get to the end of your bead the heat is so hot that your bead might get alittle wider,so you will have to add more rod to cool it down
 
P
Mar 12, 2008
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sunnyvale trailer park
x2 on the buy a bigger one than you think you are going to need. I looked at the miller 200, decided I needed a bit more, went with the lincoln 225 instead. If you plan to use it on aluminum, I would recommend going absolutely no less than a 225. Aluminum takes a lot more heat than ss or ms. If I try to do 3/16 alum with the 225 it lasts for a couple minutes then shuts down. 1/4" it only goes for about 20 seconds if I'm lucky. I would have stepped up to the 255, but the price difference is retarded. We run a 255 lincoln with water cooling at work and it is night and day difference compared to mine at home, you literally can't make it shut down with normal use and the heads and consumables last way way longer due to the water cooling.

Personally I can't stand foot pedals, I traded mine in for a thumb slide when I bought it. Once you get used to the slide you will never revert back to a foot pedal
 
R
look at the duty cycle,if it's 100% don't worry about a thing weld until you wanna stop.If you see one that shows 20% what that means is your machine can runs balls out for 2 minutes and needs 8 minute rest.If your gonna weld alot then look at the duty cycle higher % the better,all depends on your budget but wouldn't go anything less than 250.
Square wave is better but take more time to set up i've only used the slope.What square does is stays in the cleaning or penetrating area as long as you set it.The slope is factory set doesn't stay in the zone as long as you want it to,but either one will work fine.For 3/16 i believe i was running the machine about 225 to break the oxide layer,then back off the pedal.
 

smwizzz

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May 6, 2008
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Re: welders

I own a custom fab shop. I build anything from paper thin to 1/2" plate. I have always trusted the big names like lincoln or miller and own both. There are alot of other brands that are equally as good and have some cool tech from the European sector. My preference in tig welding is Miller. As far as what you require, I learned to weld with a high frequency box and an AC/DC arc machine with a live torch. It worked great. It was far from the toys we have today and if you can weld with one of those setups you can probably look like a pro in a few moments on the new one.

I have a handful of machines in my shop. Miller makes a tiny unit for ferrous (steel) metals that is 150 amps and 13 lbs. Wicked unit!!! You can arc weld or tig weld in DC only. You need AC for aluminum. My preference is my Dynasty 300 c/w liquid cooled torch and cooler. This unit is square wave tech, very adjustable with user memories and preset... kind of like your car stereo saves stations. You pay a large dollar but you should also consider the fact that you can arc weld with this machine, add a spool gun or suitcase mig. Basically I would call it a power source for your welding preferences. The old syncrowave, which you can still buy new is a great machine. There are still lots of commercial and industrial shops using these bullet proof and user friendly machines.

Lincoln is right up there also. I think that Miller has the market cornered in the physical size department but still a lot of good stuff out there if you look. I was looking at a brand Air liquid sells here at our local shop from europe. Size wise it was similar to Miller, function wise it was a better bang for your buck in the mig, tig and arc dept. The next step in Miller to get the same goods was over double the price and a larger unit.

FYI: I have run out of juice on small aluminum projects even with 300 amps. Aluminum is a great heat sync. The size and thickness of the material makes a large difference. 150 amps is good for 1/8" and even up to 1/4 " if the work piece is a 6" piece of 1/4"X2" barstock. It may not be enough for a piece of 3/16" that is a large sheet. I weld aluminum transmissions and engine blocks on occassion... bring your tiger torch to get the heat into the workpiece!!!

As a starter, look for a machine at least 200 amps. Stick to a brand that is well known or is reputable with the local welding supplier. Look for a good used machine... check with the local supplier... they get trades and have to take care of the customer they sell to.

As far as foot pedal, thumb dial, or thumb slide goes, it comes down to practicality for me. I prefer the foot when bench or jig welding. When I am welding on a piece of equipment, especially when I am laying down or standing on a ladder, well it only stands to reason that a foot pedal is kind of clumsy and the thumb is a better choice. I would not consider a machine that has no option of adding either one. The plug is the same on the machine so you can add what you want. You can buy a machine without one of the above and practice, but eventually you will add on, so keep the option open. Actually I am not familiar with any of the new machines not being able to add a pedal or switch.

Anyway this is kinda long winded. If you have any questions, PM me.

Dave :beer;
 

wildcard28

Well-known member
Dec 18, 2007
1,477
202
63
55
Clarkston WA
s375.photobucket.com
I own a custom fab shop. I build anything from paper thin to 1/2" plate. I have always trusted the big names like lincoln or miller and own both. There are alot of other brands that are equally as good and have some cool tech from the European sector. My preference in tig welding is Miller. As far as what you require, I learned to weld with a high frequency box and an AC/DC arc machine with a live torch. It worked great. It was far from the toys we have today and if you can weld with one of those setups you can probably look like a pro in a few moments on the new one.

I have a handful of machines in my shop. Miller makes a tiny unit for ferrous (steel) metals that is 150 amps and 13 lbs. Wicked unit!!! You can arc weld or tig weld in DC only. You need AC for aluminum. My preference is my Dynasty 300 c/w liquid cooled torch and cooler. This unit is square wave tech, very adjustable with user memories and preset... kind of like your car stereo saves stations. You pay a large dollar but you should also consider the fact that you can arc weld with this machine, add a spool gun or suitcase mig. Basically I would call it a power source for your welding preferences. The old syncrowave, which you can still buy new is a great machine. There are still lots of commercial and industrial shops using these bullet proof and user friendly machines.

Lincoln is right up there also. I think that Miller has the market cornered in the physical size department but still a lot of good stuff out there if you look. I was looking at a brand Air liquid sells here at our local shop from europe. Size wise it was similar to Miller, function wise it was a better bang for your buck in the mig, tig and arc dept. The next step in Miller to get the same goods was over double the price and a larger unit.

FYI: I have run out of juice on small aluminum projects even with 300 amps. Aluminum is a great heat sync. The size and thickness of the material makes a large difference. 150 amps is good for 1/8" and even up to 1/4 " if the work piece is a 6" piece of 1/4"X2" barstock. It may not be enough for a piece of 3/16" that is a large sheet. I weld aluminum transmissions and engine blocks on occassion... bring your tiger torch to get the heat into the workpiece!!!

As a starter, look for a machine at least 200 amps. Stick to a brand that is well known or is reputable with the local welding supplier. Look for a good used machine... check with the local supplier... they get trades and have to take care of the customer they sell to.

As far as foot pedal, thumb dial, or thumb slide goes, it comes down to practicality for me. I prefer the foot when bench or jig welding. When I am welding on a piece of equipment, especially when I am laying down or standing on a ladder, well it only stands to reason that a foot pedal is kind of clumsy and the thumb is a better choice. I would not consider a machine that has no option of adding either one. The plug is the same on the machine so you can add what you want. You can buy a machine without one of the above and practice, but eventually you will add on, so keep the option open. Actually I am not familiar with any of the new machines not being able to add a pedal or switch.

Anyway this is kinda long winded. If you have any questions, PM me.

Dave :beer;


Thanks Dave, Wow excellent post and very informative I am going down to the local welding shops this next week to see what they have for a possible trade-in machine etc. See what is avaliable.

any experience with or about adding a tig conversion to like a Lincoln arc welder of buzz box?

Thanks, Darren
 
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