Exhaust

SKI-DOO12 · Oct 7, 2011

I have a 2012 ski-doo summit freeride 154 coming in here soon and I would like some suggestions on how to get some extra horsepower by not spending alot of money?? Its 165 stock I would like to be around 200. Any ideas? Thanks

newmy1 · Oct 7, 2011

ummmm Turbo

screech · Oct 7, 2011

well turbo or 860/880 kit

taylorbok · Oct 7, 2011

message ted from terra alps, TARI on here he is supposed to be coming out with some new INSANE motors, thats if you dont wanna go turbo,

I am prob going to buy another 800r just to put one of his new motors in

winter brew · Oct 7, 2011

SKI-DOO12 said:
I have a 2012 ski-doo summit freeride 154 coming in here soon and I would like some suggestions on how to get some extra horsepower by not spending alot of money?? Its 165 stock I would like to be around 200. Any ideas? Thanks

If $6k and race fuel isn't a lot of money you can see 200....otherwise be happy with 165-170.

i'llDooit · Oct 7, 2011

winter brew said:
If $6k and race fuel isn't a lot of money you can see 200....otherwise be happy with 165-170.

with the power put to the ground:face-icon-small-win (see avatar above)

ARMYSLEDER · Oct 7, 2011

If your on a budget what I would do most importantly is a clutch kit from winter brew then a Y pipe, can, air vents That should put you around $700 or you could spend a little more and do a boondocker Nitrous kit and get some instant HP on the push of a button.

i'llDooit · Oct 7, 2011

ARMYSLEDER said:
If your on a budget what I would do most importantly is a clutch kit from winter brew then a Y pipe, can, air vents That should put you around $700 or you could spend a little more and do a boondocker Nitrous kit and get some instant HP on the push of a button.

kamon button! is there any clutching needed with the button brew?,,, how does that work?

xpspenziv · Oct 8, 2011

What you need is to get with Winterbrew for a clutch kit. Improved belt life, cooler clutches. It harnesses the power and puts it to the track. His avatar is a bone stock sled that gave the competion at the grass drags The Stocker.... Important thing is keep the primary clean. Brake clean and compressed air will be your new best friend. There are special tools you can bye but not required to pull primary off.

Exhaust, can for weight savings and not sound like a yamaha.

Track, camoplast just came out with a 3 inch lug 154. Driver change and you'll be waiting at the top.

xpspenziv · Oct 8, 2011

winter brew said:
If $6k and race fuel isn't a lot of money you can see 200....otherwise be happy with 165-170.

It is a lot of funds but somebody has to be the guinea pig. I heard its 250@ 13-15lbs. 200 @ 8 LBS mixed 50/50 to be safe all day.

Anyone taking the plunge?

Terra Alps has a billit head for the etec. No testimonies that iv seen.

Bondi air box. Dyno port exh.

taylorbok · Oct 8, 2011

sorry I didnt read this is for an etec I thought it was jsut an R, but ya terra alps head and porting maybe, if you dont wanna go for a turbo,

turbo is best bet

sledsrock · Oct 8, 2011

SKI-DOO12 said:
I have a 2012 ski-doo summit freeride 154 coming in here soon and I would like some suggestions on how to get some extra horsepower by not spending alot of money?? Its 165 stock I would like to be around 200. Any ideas? Thanks

Not gonna happen, the etec is stuck where it is. Turbo is the only option to get you in the direction you are wanting to go. It's gonna take some good coin to get 200 out of any doo 800.

SKI-DOO12 · Oct 8, 2011

what about a full exhaust and a fuel programmer? I would like to do a turbo, but i've heard theres alot of issues with putting turbos in? Is that true?

mantisman · Oct 8, 2011

I'M going to get a winterbrew clutch kit and a can and call it good til I ride it.

ARMYSLEDER · Oct 8, 2011

mantisman said:
I'M going to get a winterbrew clutch kit and a can and call it good til I ride it.

Clutching is key and then a can to drop weight and let the exhuast flow dont get much more better then that for a cheap budget.

Matte Murder · Oct 10, 2011

xpspensiv what are the advantage of drivers and what brand/style do you use? What do you mean by conveyor belt track? To the OP, I have been doing quite a bit of research on the ETEC mods. I can't get around the fact that most mods(except a turbo) only add a few horsepower(at most about 10%) at the cost of my warranty. As these guys are saying if you optimize what you have and pick the low hanging fruit like clutching and can you will have a great running sled that starts on the first pull every time and you won't have to worry about anything breaking that is not under warranty. I still can't believe that my insurance covers crash damage. Talk about a worry free toy. Motor blows, not my problem. Bend it around a tree, not my problem. Stolen out of my trailer, not my problem. I love this sport!:face-icon-small-ton

winter brew · Oct 10, 2011

SKI-DOO12 said:
what about a full exhaust and a fuel programmer? I would like to do a turbo, but i've heard theres alot of issues with putting turbos in? Is that true?

Doo does a great job with their exhaust, not ALOT of power to gain there. Aftermarket you will see SOME gain but the biggest benefit is the weight loss....at the cost of added noise. There are no fuel controllers available for the etec (yet).

xpspenziv · Oct 10, 2011

Matte Murder said:
xpspensiv what are the advantage of drivers and what brand/style do you use? What do you mean by conveyor belt track? To the OP, I have been doing quite a bit of research on the ETEC mods. I can't get around the fact that most mods(except a turbo) only add a few horsepower(at most about 10%) at the cost of my warranty. As these guys are saying if you optimize what you have and pick the low hanging fruit like clutching and can you will have a great running sled that starts on the 9first pull every time and you won't have to worry about anything breaking that is not under warranty. I still can't believe that my insurance covers crash damage. Talk about a worry free toy. Motor blows, not my problem. Bend it around a tree, not my problem. Stolen out of my trailer, not my problem. I love this sport!:face-icon-small-ton

1. Avid 7 tooth anti ratchet drivers allow you to run the track little looser and not (ratchet) skipping. Also allows you to put a 3 inch track in without a drop and roll. It gears it down a little at the same time.

2. Conveyer belt track was a sarcastic comment I made about the track that just kinda stuck. 163*16*3 inch lug.

3. The mods that have been done to my sled are Roosterbuilt clutching, full dynoport exhaust, the can is the size of a coors lite can. Bondi air box, rear scissors brackets, track of course, down 1 on the top gear and up 1 or 2 teeth on the bottom gear in the chain case. The gearing helps to produce track speed and hold rpm with the added traction and weight of the track. The sled will still trip the speedo at 100mph on the road on clicker 1 and works killer in the trees and hills holding the correct rpm for max performance. Clicker 3-4 depends on conditions.

xpspenziv · Oct 10, 2011

It's been upside-down on its side for a length of time a time or to, rolled over, once it was vertical until logging commenced. I can't take credit for that one. Should've seen where he was before that. Always been 1pull and go.

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