2013 pro's issues and fixes

stewy42 · Sep 10, 2013

Considering getting a holdover 2013 800 pro as I'm seeing a lot of them for a decent price and the factory clearance is going on. I am aware of the driveshaft, belt and a- arm issues that came up. I know the clamp was the fix for the shaft or putting in the 2012 shaft worked also. I know there are aftermarket a- arms available if you want to ease your mind about those. What about the drive belt issues? Is it true that proper break in will make those last? Also is there a stronger belt available that seemed to be working better? Any other issues to consider? Also found a good price on a '13 600 Pro. Anybody ride one of those and what are you're thoughts on them. Thanks!

boondocker97 · Sep 10, 2013

If I were getting one I would be putting on a Tom Kobza Industries belt drive. Uses a gates belt and tensioner. Very clean looking setup and priced pretty good as far as belt drive systems go.

rmscustom · Sep 10, 2013

If you buy make the dealer put the 14 QD belt on then if you have problems with breaking belt either find the problem and fix it or drop the cash on an aftermarket belt setup... Plenty of 13s out there with zero belt problems.

AndrettiDog · Sep 10, 2013

Why spend the money on a 13' or newer Pro and buy an aftermarket belt drive? I would find a low mileage '12 if there were the case. Save some money .

I did lose a belt but my dealer took care of it for me that night. I lost it on a hard landing in a ditch that also bent my rails, so it was very tough on the drive. I thought there were talks about Polaris making a change in the belts but I could be wrong.

mtncat1 · Sep 10, 2013

some people consider perma grin a problem with this sled also:face-icon-small-hap

rmscustom · Sep 10, 2013

BugIto said:
Why spend the money on a 13' or newer Pro and buy an aftermarket belt drive? I would find a low mileage '12 if there were the case. Save some money .

I did lose a belt but my dealer took care of it for me that night. I lost it on a hard landing in a ditch that also bent my rails, so it was very tough on the drive. I thought there were talks about Polaris making a change in the belts but I could be wrong.

Come on, tell the truth. Everybody knows that everything that happens to the Pro starts out with "I was just cruising down a groomed trail when the ______ fell apart or broke:face-icon-small-sho

RockyMtn.Kris · Sep 10, 2013

stewy42 said:
Considering getting a holdover 2013 800 pro as I'm seeing a lot of them for a decent price and the factory clearance is going on. I am aware of the driveshaft, belt and a- arm issues that came up. I know the clamp was the fix for the shaft or putting in the 2012 shaft worked also. I know there are aftermarket a- arms available if you want to ease your mind about those. What about the drive belt issues? Is it true that proper break in will make those last? Also is there a stronger belt available that seemed to be working better? Any other issues to consider? Also found a good price on a '13 600 Pro. Anybody ride one of those and what are you're thoughts on them. Thanks!

I have a 12 now and just bought a 13. Im not overly worried about any of the "issues". I may put a 12 shaft in it in case I turbo it later. Just keep and eye on the arms (inspect each ride) and probably buy Timbersled after warranty is up. The 14 drive belt is different (supposedly 30% stronger?) so buy one of those and you have a backup. On the 600 if you do any kind of mountain riding I would not buy one. They just dont make enough power. Maybe ok for low-marking and light off-trail riding :face-icon-small-ton

catfreak · Sep 11, 2013

Not one issue w/ my 13. Ran PAR's power up kit all last winter and really woke up the Pro.
I do know of two belt failures in my area but both were caused by user abuse.

av8er · Sep 11, 2013

My bro bought a 13 pro w/ 354 miles

drove it down the trail 14 miles, climbed 3 hills, on the 3rd hill he got 2/3 of the way up, QD belt sheared the cogs, and his sled rolled all the way down the hill. replacement belt $180, Pics of my Cat pulling him out priceless.
FYI if this happens to u , cut the sheared belt off, otherwise it pulls really hard.

rmscustom · Sep 11, 2013

Helpful as always av8er:face-icon-small-dis

Reg2view · Sep 11, 2013

I have found that towing out a sled, even a cat, is alot easier with the clutch belt removed - no cutting required. :gossip:.

RoffRider · Sep 11, 2013

check the back of the running boards to see if they are bent up ...this indicates that the dealers lifted sleds with a fork lift with the spars running under each running board ...i think polaris might have told dealers not to do this...if this is present you might have problems with the belt drive because the fork spars might have pushed up against the belt drive and caused problems

Pro-8250 · Sep 11, 2013

Love the 2013 Pro

Get the 800. Plain and simple. We have had great luck with our 800 2013 Pro.
But which ever you choose, just take it easy on it for the first 100 miles or so. :face-icon-small-ton
Good luck!:face-icon-small-hap

glassman · Sep 12, 2013

av8er said:
drove it down the trail 14 miles, climbed 3 hills, on the 3rd hill he got 2/3 of the way up, QD belt sheared the cogs, and his sled rolled all the way down the hill. replacement belt $180, Pics of my Cat pulling him out priceless.
FYI if this happens to u , cut the sheared belt off, otherwise it pulls really hard.

Sounds like improper break in to me. Supposidly need 100 miles of easy riding to break the belt in properly.

iluv2fly · Sep 14, 2013

RockyMtn.Kris said:
I have a 12 now and just bought a 13. Im not overly worried about any of the "issues". I may put a 12 shaft in it in case I turbo it later. Just keep and eye on the arms (inspect each ride) and probably buy Timbersled after warranty is up. The 14 drive belt is different (supposedly 30% stronger?) so buy one of those and you have a backup. On the 600 if you do any kind of mountain riding I would not buy one. They just dont make enough power. Maybe ok for low-marking and light off-trail riding :face-icon-small-ton

Have you rode the newer 600 pro in the mountains? I weigh 220 lbs and rode a 13 600 all last year at 8-10,000ft and it ran great for a 600. It will not outclimb an 800 but it will get you everywhere. In my opinion if you don't care about being the highest on the hill the 600 is awesome.

snowjunkie82 · Sep 15, 2013

RockyMtn.Kris said:
I have a 12 now and just bought a 13. Im not overly worried about any of the "issues". I may put a 12 shaft in it in case I turbo it later. Just keep and eye on the arms (inspect each ride) and probably buy Timbersled after warranty is up. The 14 drive belt is different (supposedly 30% stronger?) so buy one of those and you have a backup. On the 600 if you do any kind of mountain riding I would not buy one. They just dont make enough power. Maybe ok for low-marking and light off-trail riding :face-icon-small-ton

I would stick with the 13 shaft with clamps even in a turbo situation. I ran a 13 pro last year with a BD turbo. First ride out I twisted the original shaft off. Before the ride I tried the rivet fix after hearing there may be issues. Looking back I likely compromised the shafts integrity by doing this. At that point Polaris hadn't introduced the clamp fix so I went to the 12 shaft. It lasted about 400 miles before I twisted it off. After hearing that the clamped shafts seemed to be holding I went back to a 13 and rode the rest of the season with no issues. The sled now has about 850 miles on it and is still on the original QD belt.
Here is a link to the picture of the broken 12 shaft: http://www.snowandmud.com/polaris-pro-ride-450/broken-2012-shaft-78805.html#post1692364

goridedoo · Sep 15, 2013

13's also have a hot start bog. Not sure what causes it or if its on all the 13's or just some of them. Not really a huge issue, but it is annoying, anyone wanna elaborate on this? Is there a fix?

geo · Sep 15, 2013

Start the sled, then put on the gloves and helmet back on while the engine temps stabilize.

RockyMtn.Kris · Sep 16, 2013

iluv2fly said:
Have you rode the newer 600 pro in the mountains? I weigh 220 lbs and rode a 13 600 all last year at 8-10,000ft and it ran great for a 600. It will not outclimb an 800 but it will get you everywhere. In my opinion if you don't care about being the highest on the hill the 600 is awesome.

I have, I weigh 228. I rode a friends last year to decide on buying one for the wife. The only reason to buy one is for reliability and or cost. My experience is that most people are on an underpowered sled with too short of a track because "they dont need any more then that". If it suits your riding style I think thats the key, and after a season on one you would certainly know.

Kruchy · Sep 20, 2013

195 lbs and rode my 600 all last year and did everything the 800's did for boon docking. We don't high mark so I cant speak on that. The 600 ran flawlessly and the only place it lacks; and it should is top end. You shouldn't buy a mountain sled for top end any way.

2013 pro's issues and fixes

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