Honest opinions only please

Must - powder coated tunnel and short cooler. Available in all three years but might be tough finding a 13 holdover, these two options are only on the black and white limited editions. Do a search there is an extensive list of improvements made from 13 - 14. A smaller number of changes made on the 15s. For resale and value wise, probably better to go as new as possible.

My personal opinion, if there is a $1,000-$1,500 dollar difference between a 13 vs 14, buy the 14. I've had both.

Here's what I've gathered on differences between 2013 vs 2014 and 2014 vs 2015 as I'm considering a proclimb like yourself.


2014 Proclimb improvements:
• Lightweight ski spindles deliver a nearly 1-lb. weight reduction
• New seat shape featuring reduced height and length, with built-in storage compartment and reduced weight (Sno Pro & non-ES Limited)
• Improved ergonomics on running boards for easy snow evacuation, with rear bumper machining for more boot clearance
• Lightweight driveshaft, drive sprockets and aluminum bottom gear in chaincase (Sno Pro & Limited)
• New lightweight brake disc (Sno Pro) and race-version master cylinder on
• the RMC hydraulic brake for enhanced braking
• ProClimb chassis weight reduction: Aluminum spars (instead of steel); HCR heat exchanger system (Sno Pro)
• Skidframe weight reduction: Lightweight aluminum axles; lightweight shock bushings and new rail cap
• Arctic Cat IFP rebuildable gas front arm shock in skidframe
• New FOX FLOAT 3 ski shocks feature improved air valve access for easier pressure adjustments (Sno Pro & Limited)
• Increased fuel capacity (to 11.5 gallons on Sno Pro and Limited; and 12 gallons on Limited ES)
• Lightweight ski shock bushings and 8mm suspension hardware (instead of 10mm hardware)
• Ice-scratchers come standard (Sno Pro & Limited)
• New visible coolant reservoir for easy inspection and built-in spark plug holder
• New fixed clutch guard for added durability and reduced weight (many 2013’s had this done)
• More durable cover for brake disc
• New driven clutch sheave with larger cooling fins reduce drive belt temperature for improved performance and durability
• Rear-mounted spare belt bag (Sno Pro)
• 19/50 gearing for improved performance (most 2013’s had this done_
• One piece top handlebar clamp
• Improved steering post blocks
• Gearcase vent has no hose one piece metal with check valve
• Push rivets instead of rivets for steering boots. Easier servicing
• Lighter weight track drive sprockets
• Rear suspension mounted 1/4" back in the tunnel. Big change for performance

2014 Proclimb improvements:
• No inner idler wheels
• Rail Braces ($100)
• Zeus fastener on PTO side panel instead of thumb screw
• Stronger handlebars (they look the same so I'm assuming thicker wall)
• Steering bushing updated
• Better mapping, less boggy
• Lower gear changed from aluminum to steel (reduce risk of chain failure) ($100)
• No more porting in rear taillight, stiffer/stronger now
• All M models get front-mounted wheel kit on the rear suspension rails that prevent the rail tip from stabbing the track window.
• All M models get new magnesium idler wheel blocks with 6mm fasteners on rear suspension for reduced weight.
• All M models get new larger-diameter driven shaft with snap-ring bearing mount instead of taper-lock bearing for improved durability and serviceability.($150)
• All M models with Fox Float 3 shocks get new bleed shim valving for improved comfort and control in bumps. The air fill port has been moved to the side to make it easier to attach the Float pump for easier calibration.
• All M Sno Pro models fet added rail braces in the rear suspension for increased durability.
• M8000 and M9000 Series Sno Pro and LTD models get new front ProClimb bumper.

Doober, this is a pretty brave thing to do based on how ugly these posts can get sometimes. Good for you for doing it anyway.

I like you shopped the field and to be honest, I didn't plan on being a Cat this time around. I have had plenty of Skidoo's, Yamaha's Exciters, MSRX, and I rode an RX-1M for 7 seasons. I like you, liked it but, it was time for something lighter. That's when I bought my M8. So, Cat has been checked off the manufacturers list as well. The only one I haven't had is a Polaris and the 417 dry weight of the Polaris really had me. In fact, I was working several deals on 2015 Terrain Domination sleds but, the deals just didn't work out. The only thing that scares me on the Polaris is the pre AXYS 800 motors. The 600 RMKs are great and why they dropped the 700, who knows. With the new AXYS chassis and their new 800 engine, the Polaris is going to be an awesome sled moving forward. I will have one someday but, I will let other be the new sled guinea pigs this time around. I really didn't consider a Skidoo XM this time around and I can't tell you why. They are great sleds. The Yamaha, I still love them. I so WISH they would use their direct injection two stroke technology from their outboards in their sleds. I don't feel like I left Yamaha, I feel like they left Yamaha mountain riders high and dry. Not everyone wants to ride a comparatively heavy boosted sled.

The best advice I can give you is, get the sled that when you go into your garage and turn on the light, it makes your heart go pitter patter and makes you say yah, oh yeah, I got the right one!

Of course, your relationship with the dealers in your area are very important as well. if there is a dealer that has always stood behind you and taken care of you. Stick with them and buy whatever brand they sell. There's just not that much difference in sleds to justify buying from a bad dealer or a sled that has no dealer for 250 miles.

Best of luck to you!

get a 14 or 15 i would recommend the 15 ive rode them back to back and the 15 may not list a bunch of changes but it handles way better and runs way cleaner thats why my 14 is being traded in on a 15

regardless of what the update list says they got significantly better every year an honestly dollar for dollar it would have to be a huge savings for me to buy a 15 over a 16 things to consider

Well,

I have a 15 xm, 15 pro, 14 cat, 16 cat.

Now I won't even ride a cat without narrow boards, added steering and lower bars. The sled just doesn't work without it to me. Would almost rather a pro. With just those things done, I won't even waste my time with the other 2. Even though the pro is lite it doesn't have the power and pull. The pro needs shocks bad. But a decent sled considering. XM is great, but still no comparison.
Now upgrade the cat to where my 14 is and you will look at the other sleds like phazers.
To make the pro compete you would have to add a power claw 3" track, turbo and shocks. Then you would have something, the xm needs narrow boards bad, shocks, same track, shocks and massive weight loss. But to do that is more intensive and expensive on the xm then the cat and I still don't like the control. I would prob have to modify steering, bar position, skis, a arms and some tweaks on the skid to make it do what I like on the cat.
My riding is step backcountry, trees, boondocking, etc...

I think you should just buy my 14, 5k in upgrades (the right upgrades) 900 miles for 9k.

Really it depends on how hard you want to ride. If you like hanging in the trees on steep side hills all day, then yes the skinny boards with panels pushed in and added steering are a must. For just general boondocking and climbing, don't need to do a thing. Just gas oil and ride the piss out of it. For the majority completely stock works great.

If you look at my sig you'll see I've had most year of the PC.

The 13 limited is a pretty nice sled. I wouldn't even consider a 13 sno pro though.

The 14 sno pro is a pretty solid out of the box sled. And easily worth the upcharge over most 13's.

14 up is a solid sled, as mentioned 90% of the guys will be happy with it out of the box and less than 10% can ride like the internet bad azzes.