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05 M7 won't rev past 6000 rpm

M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
I have a 2005 M7 that won't pull past 6000 rpm under a load. If I pull the belt or just put it on a stand it'll pull 7900 rpm. I have done a few mods to it. I've put stm power valves, bmp y-pipe and full velocity can, also I have a bmp torsion spring conversion kit. I've checked fuel pressure and it was within specs. My best guess would be that it's something electrical possibly the stator?
 
M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
Today I tested the ignition timing sensor which I've heard is supposed to be between 152 ohms 228 ohms and the tester said 95 ohms so I'm assuming the stator is bad? A second opinion would nice because stators aren't cheap and I've been having this problem for a while and I don't want to spend more money and not fix it. Any input would be nice Thanks.
 
D

diggerdown

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2004
3,452
677
113
Deer Park Wi.
Your timing sensor is not your stator, it is the little pickup unit inside the mag housing. It does not sound like a bad stator, could be the sensor or the tps. Basically it sounds like it is not advancing the timing so any sort of load will hold it back from getting more R's. If it is a heavy load that holds it back there may be something wrong with your clutching or clutches.
 
M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
Well I did switch everything back to stock where it had run good before and it still did the same thing as it does with the aftermarket clutch so I don't think that it's clutching causing the problem. Also when I've tested it at my house just south of the twin cities in MN it'll only pull 7900 rpms on the stand and that with weights for 9000 ft.
 
A

arctic2009

Well-known member
Nov 19, 2009
1,864
670
113
Minnesota
you put it all back to stock and it still wont hit rpms?? Or did you still have the BMP clutch on there?
 
A

arctic2009

Well-known member
Nov 19, 2009
1,864
670
113
Minnesota
First I would check to make sure your power valve motor is functioning, I know you said you had stm valves but if you put it back to stock this might be a place to start. When you start it, the power valve motor should turn a bit and then go back to the regular position. I would also check your power valve cable length. If all this is in spec, check the output voltage on the lighting coil, if that is not in spec then your stator could be shot. Just a few ideas, hope you figure it out! But when you say it reaches RPMs when not having a load on it makes me wonder about clutching as well.. Are your primary weights sticky? bad roller?
 
M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
Well we thought that was the issue at first because it would open sporadically, which is why I bought the stm power valves to try to fix it and eliminate the servo. As far as the clutching goes the spider has 700 miles on it the weights have 200 miles on them and I double checked all of the parts in the primary clutch and replaced the rollers on the secondary. Also I sent the ecu in to the factory and had it reflashed to 06 specs.
 
M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
Today I tested the ignition coil (the black and orange wires) and it ohm out to .6 but according to my manual its supposed to be between .24 and .36 I wasn't able to test it from the spark plug caps because the tester i have wont reach the bottoms. I guess my question would be what kind of issue it would cause if the ohms are too high.
 

m8magicandmystery

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Lifetime Membership
Jan 20, 2008
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ok..first your stator doesn;t seem to be in spec with ohms..then your coil..?

I think the possibility does exist in testing /meter errors.

Keep looking for the obvious..rubbed wires...reeds..smart valves in tank. Put dielectric grease on all plug connections, trim a quarter inch of high tension lead on plug boots.

etc etc...
 
M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
I did do some more reading on the ignition timing sensor and some of the 05's had a sensor that is supposed to be around 90 ohms so if that's the case my sensor should be fine. I've checked almost all the wires and unplugged all the things that are necessary to run the engine and it still did the same thing. As much as I don't want to I think tomorrow I'm going to take it to a dealer, if they're open, and hopefully they can pinpoint the problem.
 
M
Aug 8, 2011
56
3
8
Hastings, MN
Well I decided not to take it to a dealer the shortest time to even look at it is a week. So instead I took the day and tested different things. I doubt it would be the belt because we ran it on the stand without it and there was no change in rpm. We checked the compression on both cylinders (both were 100). We tested the spark to both cylinders and they appeared to be fine. However we noticed the pto side cylinder spiting out unused fuel and oil. So going off that we switch the spark plug wires (no change) and the we switch the injectors and still no change. We did not check the fuel pressure so not sure if that is the problem but i would think its electrical because twice today it hit full rpms briefly and now I'm really confused.
 

m8magicandmystery

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Jan 20, 2008
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a plug can seem ok and fail under load...is your fuel ok??

did you hold throttle open during compression test
 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
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Missoula, Montana
hit'n the ground

If you think it seems electrical, then take off the rear bumper and make sure the tail light wire are not shorting out. then check wire under the gas tank as they will also wear through and short out. M7's notorious for having that exact problem and will show up in the oddest running conditions.

don't rev it on the stand without the belt or you could explode the clutch, there are more than a couple of ex snowmobilers with one arm or wrist from making that mistake and of course if it hits you in the noggin you won't be crippled just dead.
 
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