Help with sons 340cc need some info

Probably just needs to have the carb needle moved one clip up which will lean it down a bit right off idle. Do you know how to do that?

As for engagement... problem is that little motor doesn't make a lot of power so if you lower the engagement you will likely impact the ability for it to get going.

sled_guy

Unscrew the top of the carb which will lift the spring and slide. Place a rag over the top of the engine or carb area where you will be working in case you drop something small (needle clip).

The needle sticks down through the slide and is limited by the clip in one of the slots. the large diameter return spring holds pressure on a plate at the top of the slide. Compress the spring and the plate should lift up exposing the keyhole that the cable end rests in. Pretty straight forward.

Hello,


Something that I do when I acquire a machine where the maintenance history is unknown, or foggy at best, is to cover off on the basic maintenance items.

A lot of these machines received little, if any, TLC throughout their life & considering their age they could use a little help.

Engine: Compression test(leak down test preferred). No sense trying to tune or repair a damaged or weak/worn out engine. Install new spark plugs.

Fuel system: Drain fuel tank & clean inside if needed. Remove & completely disassemble carbs for a proper cleaning(not for the novice). Document carb calibrations(jets, needles, air / fuel screws, etc.) Assuming the machine is stock verify if those calibrations match the OEM specs. for your machine & altitude / temperature. Replace fuel filter, fuel lines, impulse line to fuel pump, etc.

Clutches: Remove, clean, & inspect(not for the novice) Replace worn bushings / buttons, confirm proper spider button to tower clearance, confirm proper belt to sheave clearance. Document clutch calibrations(weights, springs, helix, secondary spring position, etc.) Assuming the machine is stock verify if those calibrations match the OEM specs. for your machine & altitude / temperature. Install new belt & shim secondary clutch for proper belt deflection.

Chassis/suspension: Drain chain case & inspect internals. Document gearing. Assuming the machine stock, verify if the ratio matches the OEM specs. for your machine & track size / altitude. Inspect all suspension / steering components for wear &/or proper movement(I.E. seized cross shafts for rear suspension pivots are common) Ensure condition of track drive shaft bearing(this lube point is missed by more owners than not!) Complete grease job.


I do all of above on a used machine before I start fooling around with adjustments. I mention all of this as I've seen many people, myself included, try to tune /adjust a machine to compensate for a mechanical deficiency / lack of maintenance. Along the way if I find settings that are out to lunch compared to the OEM specs. I'll make changes accordingly.

A machine in good mechanical condition adjusted to OEM specs. will run good enough for 95% of the people out there & certainly more than adequate for a sub 100 lb pilot! :face-icon-small-win

Good luck!

If you move the e clip, move it towards the top of the needle to lean it a bit. Move it only 1 notch from where it is right now. You can put 1 or 2 #3 screw brass washers under the clip. The washers are thin and give a fine adjustment. This will make sure you don't make too big of a jump when leaning it. You can then take a washer out at a time and check performance and plug color.

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I bought a '93 440 SKS (that I'm currently upgrading) that only had 1000 miles on it. Overall, it looked in very good shape, but I went through everything as if it hadn't run in years. I ended up pulling the rear skid and cleaning/greasing all the rear pivot rods. Amazing how nasty stiff those things are after a while.

The big thing that I found was one tie rod was adjusted fully against the heim joint and the other end had a ton of threads showing. This threw up a red flag so I checked it. Sure enough, someone had hit something and sheared the tie rod end. There were only about 3 threads on that joint and they were using all of them. Luckily I had spare parts in the bin so I changed that tie rod out and aligned the front end. I would have felt bad if it had caused my kid to wreck if I hadn't found it until then.

volcano buster said:

I bought a '93 440 SKS (that I'm currently upgrading) that only had 1000 miles on it. Overall, it looked in very good shape, but I went through everything as if it hadn't run in years. I ended up pulling the rear skid and cleaning/greasing all the rear pivot rods. Amazing how nasty stiff those things are after a while.

The big thing that I found was one tie rod was adjusted fully against the heim joint and the other end had a ton of threads showing. This threw up a red flag so I checked it. Sure enough, someone had hit something and sheared the tie rod end. There were only about 3 threads on that joint and they were using all of them. Luckily I had spare parts in the bin so I changed that tie rod out and aligned the front end. I would have felt bad if it had caused my kid to wreck if I hadn't found it until then.

Click to expand...

Exactly! Some people are afraid to use a grease gun. I pulled the driveshaft out of my son's Indy Lite the other day to do the track swap & found the clutch side bearing was on it's way out. When I took it apart I could see the old grease that had came over with the ark along with the fresh stuff I just pumped in last winter when I bought the sled. My grease job was too late.

Good catch on the tie-rod end! That could've ended up going real bad.........

Fortunately this Indy Lite had been ridden as cautious as they come as the steel skis barely had a scratch & the belly pan is immaculate. That said the fuel line inside the tank had deteriorated & was laying inside in about a dozen pieces & the carbs were full of the usual crud. LOL!

Once the maintenance on a machine has been let go it takes a while to get it back up to snuff.

This is a perfect thread for where we are at with my son's '94 Indy Lite that we picked up a couple mouths ago.

Last Friday I pulled out the grease gun in preparation for a planned first test run on Sunday. Even though I have the owners manual... I had a hard time locating all of the grease fittings (there's not a picture or count showing them). Here's what I found... please let me know what I've missed:

• 1 on each of the front control arms (although they were missing... I was able to pull a couple fittings from the old tie rod ends off of my eldest sons Jeep)
• 1 on each spindle
• 1 on the driveshaft (where the speedometer cable connects)
• 1 behind the secondary clutch... which i couldn't fill because I didn't have a grease needle type fitting
• 1 on the steering shaft... which came out with the grease gun. The one that came out looked like it was a press in... I replaced it with a screw in
• 3 on pivots on the rear suspension... although I couldnt get grease into 2 of them

What did I miss? For the pivots I couldn't get grease into... should I plan to pull those apart and clean? Does the track need to come off for that (I'm new to snowmobiles)?

For the most part... I don't think the thing had been lubed in a decade or more!!

Many thanks,

Not trying to add a lot of work to a "new to you" sled.

I would pull the rear skid and pull apart all pivot tubes and clean them, regrease and check the zerks to make sure grease is going through before reassembly. I would also pull all bogey's off and carefully pop the side covers off the bearing and clean and regrease those. If any bearings are bad they aren't too expensive and relatively easy to change out. Reassemble and reinstall.

The skid will come out with the rear axle tension released (or just take it out at this time), plus the 4 suspension bolts, 2 on each side of the tunnel. I find it easiest to suspend the rear of the sled up and lift the rear torsion springs out of their perches and rotate down and back to release their tension. If you have a ratchet strap it is easy to thread through the rear suspension to clamp down on the front scissor arm to pull it down to the rails. Once this is done, the suspension will all but slide out. I also use 3/8" rods through the suspension bolt holes inside the upper track segment to hold it up and a couple 1x2's below the hyfax for the skid to slide laterally on.

I did this to my '93 440 SKS and the rear suspension although stock, snaps right back up into top position without any hesitation.

volcano buster said:

Not trying to add a lot of work to a "new to you" sled.

I would pull the rear skid and pull apart all pivot tubes and clean them, regrease and check the zerks to make sure grease is going through before reassembly. I would also pull all bogey's off and carefully pop the side covers off the bearing and clean and regrease those. If any bearings are bad they aren't too expensive and relatively easy to change out. Reassemble and reinstall.

The skid will come out with the rear axle tension released (or just take it out at this time), plus the 4 suspension bolts, 2 on each side of the tunnel. I find it easiest to suspend the rear of the sled up and lift the rear torsion springs out of their perches and rotate down and back to release their tension. If you have a ratchet strap it is easy to thread through the rear suspension to clamp down on the front scissor arm to pull it down to the rails. Once this is done, the suspension will all but slide out. I also use 3/8" rods through the suspension bolt holes inside the upper track segment to hold it up and a couple 1x2's below the hyfax for the skid to slide laterally on.

I did this to my '93 440 SKS and the rear suspension although stock, snaps right back up into top position without any hesitation.

Click to expand...

Thanks VB!! We're going to try and get this done before our next outing in two weeks. I kind of thought that was coming when I couldn't get grease into those fittings.