P
ridin an 09 m8 with boondocker pump gas kit. after a good pull the sled wont start sometimes unless i let it sit for like 10 or 15 miniutes. whats that about, very annoying
to hot?
- Thread starter pgtm8
- Start date
C
Its the coolant sensor. The turbo runs hot enough that the coolant going back into motor sends the sensor into limp mode. Some guys have found ways to bypass this (switch or resistor). I never understood why the coolant goes from turbo back into motor, should be other way around.
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Coolant lines
If you let it ideal down and sit it should not do that what happens it runs out of fuel.
Push cools the turbo with an oil cooler.
If you let it ideal down and sit it should not do that what happens it runs out of fuel.
Push cools the turbo with an oil cooler.
0
On older cats I saw where one injector was bad, it would dump fuel into the cylinder after shutting it off and flood the sled and it would take forever to get it started. Sounds more like yours is a heat issue if it's only 10-15 minutes though.
M
my turbo m7 would do that if i didnt let it idle a bit before shutting down.
P
yea its def. a heat issue. im gonna try adding 10 to the low in the 3000 range on the boondocker and see if that helps. thanks for replies
The temp sensor in these motors is in the case, in the water pump passage. The hot water exits the bottom of the motor, not through the head like many older pol and cat motors. The temp sensor has 2 yellow wires going to it(runs down by the recoil rope). you can put a switch in the circuit so when the senor is tripped, due to excessive heat soak, you can flip it and will be able to start the sled. then flip the switch back and the sled will run fine because it will be pumping fluid again while running. It is also important to let the sled idle down before shutting down so it doesn't leave extra fuel in the motor when the ignition is killed. a combo of these things should cure your problem.
Adam
Adam
J
Always idle your sled after driving hard, especially when a turbo is mounted, so that the oil will circulate in the turbo befor stoping the engine... Common procedureon turbo cars...
J
Adam's right, the temp sensor is in the case, and your problem is a heat soak issue. There is no temp sensor in the head. Allowing the sled to idle will circulate the hot coolant and allow the motor to cool some before you shut it down. Put a switch on the yellow wires under the recoil and your problem will go away.
tM8 wouldn't come off of idle due to temp/heat soak
I had this problem no less than 15 times in 3 days riding. Fortunately I had installed a plug so I could unplug it just in case. Idling it down for a bit did not make any difference on my sled. It would always start, but it would not come off of idle without flooding out & dying until I unplugged the temp sensor. I would have to run it for 30 yards or so to get it cooled off & then plug the sensor back in. It didn't run normal with the temp sensor unplugged. I'll be installing a switch before the next trip.
I didn't notice any light or codes when my sled wouldn't come off of idle due to temp. Was there something I missed?
I'm comfortable using a switch, but is there another fix that does not bypass the temp sensor to make BD turbos more "pull & go" for the cats?
Anyone know of an easy way I can put a small temp gauge on my sled?
I never had the issue while moving. Only happened while idling after a good pull in the powder or after turning the sled off for a couple minutes to help the N/A sleds dig out. :face-icon-small-hap
I had this problem no less than 15 times in 3 days riding. Fortunately I had installed a plug so I could unplug it just in case. Idling it down for a bit did not make any difference on my sled. It would always start, but it would not come off of idle without flooding out & dying until I unplugged the temp sensor. I would have to run it for 30 yards or so to get it cooled off & then plug the sensor back in. It didn't run normal with the temp sensor unplugged. I'll be installing a switch before the next trip.
I didn't notice any light or codes when my sled wouldn't come off of idle due to temp. Was there something I missed?
I'm comfortable using a switch, but is there another fix that does not bypass the temp sensor to make BD turbos more "pull & go" for the cats?
Anyone know of an easy way I can put a small temp gauge on my sled?
I never had the issue while moving. Only happened while idling after a good pull in the powder or after turning the sled off for a couple minutes to help the N/A sleds dig out. :face-icon-small-hap
M
switch
adam is right.if you let it idle down and turn off the sled and the switch.when starting i alway start with the switch off and the wrench well show on the display , this wel over fuel the motor then turn the switch on the wrenh well go away and the sled wel idle smooth.the problem is heat soak and the fact all thr kits use the lines that are on the throtle bodies.and this is looped from the water pump to the turbo then back to the pump area were the sensor.if it won,t start hold it pinned. i'm going to try somthing .send the hotside line to the res.like the line off the head .this should work.
I like the idea of sending it back to the reservoir to avoid this problem. I assume you propose to just put a plug in the other return line that goes to the pump area? Hmmm.
D
Contact CPC they have a nice bypass switch that not only works in the hot condition but also works great for cold weather starts.
I changed the coolant flow from the turbo so it goes back into the coolant bottle & it cut the frequency of hot-start occurrence in half, but didn't eliminate it. I guess I'll just put in the switch like everyone else has. :face-icon-small-dis
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