Some Summer Watch Out Things to look for on your 900's

Dont for get to replace all plastics from hugging trees Sean. Good thread to start.

do u guys do this to every sled u own? bc i will check for loose bolts but have never done any of the other stuff u listed. i just let them sit over the summer. i just got the 900 brand new last nov. and put 300 miles on this year but never did any of that to my other sleds. i usualy grease in the fall every year but thats it. maybe a nice wash and wax but nuttin else.......

A couple things come to mind...

1) I would check very closely or (like I'm going to doo) is replace the coolant hose that runs under the motor on the mag side that comes up to the head. I'm finding that the hose is getting partially pinched and is rubbing on the front cross member that holds the front motor mounts. Each time you gas the throttle, the engine moves just a little and that hose is getting boogered up. A fellow rider had his go out completely in the back country.

Due to the length of the factory hose, and the routing of the hose, there isn't really much a guy can doo to help prevent this rubbing except wrapping the hose at the infected area. The hose is like $28 I believe from your local Polaris dealer.


2) I like to replace my thermostat as preventative maintenance every 2 seasons. They often get blamed for sticking and overheating an engine so guys naturally want to remove them. By replacing them when they should be replaced, they don't cause problems. That just happened!


3) Clean throttle bodies and reeds. Check the throttle body/reed boots closely. We know how often they crack/delaminate and especially if you're running V-force reeds as the modification necessary to the boot to run the V-force reeds leaves the boots pretty thin in the corner areas.


4) Wiring, wiring , wiring! An area that I'd pay attention to is the tailight wiring running under the seat. I placed a layer of duct tape directly to the tunnel and then another layer of tape on top of the wiring loom. Mine had been rubbing the tunnel. I got lucky. Another area is the stator wiring rubbing on the seat and the conglomeration of wiring in that area. Mine was all fouled up and poorly routed.


5) Polzinhunter has/had what I thought was a great idea. We've all fought trying to get the fuel tank lined back up to install the bolts...He simply drilled a couple new holes to the rear of the original holes in the tunnel so install of the tank is much easier. The other reason this is good is the seat doesn't have to rub the wiring up front, especially the 3 stator wires. I will be doing this for sure.


6) If you're working and R&R'ing an 06 motor, it's a good idea to mark, tag, or tape the injector wiring connectors. They are labeled from the factory, however the location of these labels is so far down in the bulkhead when reinstalling the motor that they are almost impossible to see. I just used some 2 inch masking tape, making huge lables. There was a member a few months ago that had his injectors swapped.


7) I would rec replacing the skid bolts with grade 8's. I can't tell you how many of the stock bolts I had break one day. The 4 main suspension bolts that bolt the skid to the tunnel are the main 4 to replace. I've also seen a couple of the limiter strap aluminum shafts bent pretty good.


8) I'd like to come up with a way of keeping the belt dust out of the intake system. It would be nice to somehow filter the air preferrably in the boost box area.



Remember, these sleds are going on their 6th or 7th season depending on the year you own.

Always a good idea to clean out the mangled twinkies and moldy beef jerky too!

Chain case oil !!!!!! Some prefer to do it before storage to alleviate any moisture problems/rust

guidoxpress said:

also..

when i removed the speedo housing on the driveshaft...the bolt that holds the gear for the speedo on....was barely even on...it had loosened up, and barely fingertight...

worth getting in there and checking..

also a good thing to do is replace bearing..

--the jackshaft bearing (behind secondary) on the shaft
--drive shaft bearing (behind speedo housing)
--chaincase upper and lower bearings)
--bogie wheel bearings

Click to expand...

On them bearings does a guy have to use the polaris bearings? We have a company here that will measure and find you the bearing for half/quarter the price.

guidoxpress said:

by no means do you have to use polaris bearings...if you can find a perfect match, go for it..

but its hard to get bearings that are the same on some parts...i will check for sure when i go to replace them this summer...

ecspecially the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings, they are $$$ but not your standard bearings either..they are rounded on both sides :face-icon-small-con

i also have a local bearing shop but they havent been able to match some bearings i have brought in....most of them were from my street bike (zx9r)

keep us posted on what ones you canget replaced and what you paid for them.

Click to expand...

Will do won't be until later fall when I get the sled out and start working on it.

This company here (motion Industries) rocks. I have yet to take a bearing/o-ring/seal to them that they don't either have or can get and there normally half the price as the stealership.

Would be nice to know if we have an option..thanks in advance for the research!!!

Nice... as I have not even started to store the tractor yet..hope to ride next weekend so the plans are put on hold..

All Balls Products makes kits at a reasonable price for the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings. WPS sells them for like $28 for the set.

Each set includes PTO side radial mount bearing, chaincase seal, chaincase bearing, snap ring. Separate Polaris prices on this stuff is much higher.

I think that there is an Ebay vendor that sells the the All Balls kits as well.

One kit for the jackshaft, one kit for the driveshaft...

I dont have the part numbers in front of me...

I've searched bearing houses for a while... and came up empty... the radius edged bearings are hard to come by.

As a note, all balls sells great bearing kits for dirt bikes and street bikes as well.