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Wifi In My Shop???????

DUKHTR3

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How hard would it be for you to run a data hard line to the shop? Because I would bet being your in a steel building that your signal would be a ton stronger if you ran a line to the shop and then just put a router out there for the shop area.
That's how I would do it. Run a cat 6 wire to your shop.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

christopher

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Something's not quite right here.
You are saying you have DSL internet, yet you are also saying its coming from your CABLE provider.

If you have CABLE internet, then you have a Copper Core semi-rigid cable that connects to the back of a CABLE-ROUTER.

If you have DSL, then you should have a simple PHONE LINE that clips into the back of a Router.

Either way.
You SHOULD be able to attach either a Cable Router or a DSL router to any available port in your house, so you COULD try and chose the absolute best location for signal propagation. But getting a signal into a METAL building 300ft from the router may be asking a LOT..

You could run a hard line from the house router to the building, but that is going to be more like a NETWORK cable, it will plug into ONE computer. You can't connect a Router to a Router.
 

Phizzer

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ok... if I run a cable. Do you run out the back of the router in the basement and then have another router in the shop? How does that all work.

Christopher.... I have no problem buying a new router, moving it upstairs if I have to. Was hoping not to spend $450. I need some tv money too.... hahahahaha. The part I am most worried about is setting up the router. Doing all the programming with it. The cable provider has always done it for me.

Just like this!

2Routers.jpg
 

Phizzer

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Something's not quite right here.
You are saying you have DSL internet, yet you are also saying its coming from your CABLE provider.

If you have CABLE internet, then you have a Copper Core semi-rigid cable that connects to the back of a CABLE-ROUTER.

If you have DSL, then you should have a simple PHONE LINE that clips into the back of a Router.

Either way.
You SHOULD be able to attach either a Cable Router or a DSL router to any available port in your house, so you COULD try and chose the absolute best location for signal propagation. But getting a signal into a METAL building 300ft from the router may be asking a LOT..

You could run a hard line from the house router to the building, but that is going to be more like a NETWORK cable, it will plug into ONE computer. You can't connect a Router to a Router.

Why do you say you can't connect router to router? Ahhh, maybe I see where you are going. This creates an "access point" rather than a router.
 
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christopher

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Why do you say you can't connect router to router? Ahhh, maybe I see where you are going. This creates an "access point" rather than a router.


by Bradley Mitchell
Updated October 01, 2016

While most home computer networks only use one router, adding a second router makes sense in a few situations:

  • Upgrading a wired network to also support wireless devices
  • Extending the wireless range of a home network to reach dead spots
  • Networking a wired device that's too far away from the original router
  • Creating a separate subnetwork within the home to stream video among some devices without bogging down connections to others



Making it all work requires just a few steps.

Positioning a Second Router


When setting up a new router, place it near a Windows PC or other computer that can be used for the initial configuration. Both wired and wireless routers are best configured from a computer connected via Ethernet network cable. The router can be moved to its permanent location later.

Connecting a Second Wired Router

A second (new) router that doesn't have wireless capability must be connected to the first (existing) router via an Ethernet cable. Plug one end of the cable into the new router's uplink port (sometimes labeled "WAN" or "Internet"). Plug the other end into any free port on the first router other than its uplink port.

Connecting a Second Wireless Router

Home wireless routers can be connected to each other via Ethernet cable the same as wired routers. Connecting two home routers via wireless is also possible, but in most configurations the second one will only be able to function as a wireless access point instead of a router.

The second router must be set up in client mode to utilize its full routing functionality, a mode that many home router's don’t support. Consult a specific router model's documentation to determine whether it supports client mode and how to configure it.

Wi-Fi Channel Settings for Wireless Home Routers

If both the existing and second new routers are wireless, their Wi-Fi signals can easily interfere with each other, causing dropped connections and unpredictable network slowdowns.


Each wireless router utilizes certain Wi-Fi frequency ranges called channels, and signal interference occurs whenever two wireless routers in the same house uses the same or overlapping channels.

Wireless routers use different Wi-Fi channels by default depending on the model, but these settings can be changed via the router's console. To avoid signal interference between two routers in a home, try setting the first router to use channel 1 or 6 and the second to use channel 11.
See also - Change the Wi-Fi Channel Number to Avoid Interference


IP Address Configuration of a Second Router

Home network routers also have default IP address settings depending on their model. The default IP settings of a second router do not require any change unless it is to be configured as a network switch or access point.

Using the Second Router as a Switch or Access Point

The above procedures enable an additional router to support a subnetwork within a home network. This is useful when wanting to maintain an extra level of control over certain devices, such as placing extra restrictions on their Internet access.

Alternatively, a second router can be configured as an Ethernet network switch or (if wireless) an access point.


This lets devices connect to the second router as normal but does not create a subnetwork. For households simply looking to extend basic Internet access plus file and printer sharing to additional computers, a no-subnetwork set up is sufficient, but it does require a different configuration procedure than above.

Configuring a Second Router Without Subnetwork Support

To set up a new router as a network switch, plug an Ethernet cable into any free port of the second router other than the uplink port and connect it to any port of the first router other than the uplink port.

To set up a new wireless router as an access point, configure the device for either bridge or repeater mode linked to the first router.

Consult the second router's documentation for the specific settings to use.

For both wired and wireless routers, update the IP configuration:

  • Check the second router's local IP address and change it if necessary to ensure it is within the address range of the network as configured on the first router and not conflicting with any other device on the local network.
  • Set the DHCP address range of the second router to fit inside the address range of the first router. (Alternatively, disable DHCP and manually set the IP address of each device connected to the second router to fall within the first router's range.)
 

mountainhorse

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What I'm asking is...

Do you want Wifi in your shop?..... meaning, do you need to have a wifi signal to run multiple devices wirelessly (eg iPad, cell phone, etc) ... or are you going to have a laptop/desktop that you need to access the internet on in your shop only, that could be provided to only one device? ?



I want to have Internet without using my cellular data.

Guess if we go to unlimited data. I could set my phone up as a hot spot. Guessing everytime the phone rings I loose connection though.

Do you want wifi in the shop... or do you just want a computer to be able to be connected via wifi to your router?


.
 
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mountainhorse

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The reason I ask... is because I have the same situation as you do...but mine is over 600' from the source.

Super simple solution.

I simply use an external Hi-gain wifi into USB ... plugged into my laptop in the shop.

The ALFA AWUS036H unit with an inexpensive outdoor 20dB long-range omnidirectional panel antenna..

The only drawback is that this antenna has to plug into my laptop via USB.... I have the same internet service in my shop as I do in the house... but need to be connected via USB to the antenna at the shop location.

Speedtest shows only about a 2% drop in down/upload when in the shop compared to the house with the same laptop.



This solution IS super simple and not expensive.


Tech heads out there probably even know a way to make the laptop it's own 'hotspot' if needed.


.
 
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S

Spaarky

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Running multiple items, lap top smart tv iPhone would be nice, but not totally necessary.

That's what I was wondering. Hot spot off laptop. I was thinking of just having a cheap Chrome book in the shop.

Cable provider was general term. The do phone, dsl and cable. At least the thing in the basement is labeled dsl.
 
S

Spaarky

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So the pad goes outside my shop? Does is still plug into the lap top or does it repeat the signal?

Don't get me started on the smart tv. We just got a Samsung and all it does is buffer when we try to watch vids. Now a little research they are known for that. :face-icon-small-fro
 

milehighassassin

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Man.
I have tried those and had HORRIBLE experience with them
Just unending problems getting the connection to hold.
Upgraded by router to one of the High End units and now all 3 stories of the house and the garage and the property all have solid coverage now.


Same here. Just amplifies your problem. I suggest getting the router out of the basement. That is the worst place for it. For most houses, the main level in the center of the house is best.

For this situation, I'd try and putting it as close to the side of your house as your garage. You can probably stretch it out to your shop.

Couple options for you, would be to get a much better router. There are several good good options out there.

I have the Archer AC1900. Love it, works great. I send a lot of data locally through my house. It does the job. They have a faster, stronger model:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXVK3KY/ref=twister_B06XKPGSVW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I've read a lot of good stuff about this. There could be better options, but having used the 1900, I can imagine this is much better.
 

Mark's RMK

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WiFi in Detached Garage

Just got done hooking up my wireless access point in my detached garage.

Materials:


[*]WRT1900ACS Linksys router (already had for house)

[*]200' weatherproof ethernet cable from Amazon $80

[*]LAPAC1200 Linksys wireless access point $125 (needs 120 volt outlet for power supply)

The wireless access point broadcasts in 2.4 and 5 ghz. Both can be named and have individual passwords. My router has 2.4 and 5 ghz as well but is combined for naming and passwords.

In the spring I'll bury the 1/2" pvc that I ran the ethernet cable in. Just plug the ethernet cable into back of the router and the wireless access point. Plug it in and the most difficult part was finding the IP address to configure the wireless access point since my router assigns it's own IP addresses.

It's threads like this that really make being a lifetime member of SnoWest worth it.
 
S

Spaarky

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alright I am back to this again. didn't get wire buried to busy in the summer.

hopefully Eric or someone can answer these questions.

If I purchase this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Mile-Range-Outdoor-WIFI-Range-Extender-Repeater-Antenna-Router-Combo-2-4-GHz/231334147603?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dbb055db025204367b26b3f080c10a970%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D231334147603%26itm%3D231334147603&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A89010de9-fd62-11e8-ad97-74dbd18099b5%7Cparentrq%3A9e1e0a451670a9c994c27c4dfff0b0a1%7Ciid%3A1


I have read instructions. Sorry, not a techy. I need to program the router that would sit in the shop. That's what has the small antenna on it?? To program, you plug in your computer/laptop??


Second the antenna that Eric listed...

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-USB-Adaptor/dp/B004Y6MIXS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544560553&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ALFA+AWUS036H&psc=1&smid=A2LM6ZPY06LT1N

that just plugs into laptop?? you also discussed the paddle antenna to go with it, how does that work??

thanx
 

willjogervais

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I don't know your setup but look into ubiquiti unifi ac mesh. I have multiple up at my house/ farm yard and I have wifi in the buildings I want it in and just about every area around a rather large farm yard. Just my experience and $.02
 

zalez

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I know I'm late to the discussion but figured I would chime in since networking is a huge part of my job.

You need to look at this from multiple points to decide which avenue would be the best.

Do a wireless survey
This could be done as easy as downloading a wifi analyzer app on your phone. Start in your house looking at your signal.

The app you choose should have a screen similar to this:
Screenshot_20181211-202246_Wifi Analyzer.jpg

Notice all the different humps? My router is on the right. I had to set the channel to avoid interference. Doing this type of research makes you a good "WiFi neighbor". All of the other humps are other wifi broadcasts from houses around mine. They are stepping all over each other. This causes Wifi interference and it creates an unpredictable environment.

Now walk around your house while watching your wifi signal on the app. Take note of the areas where it decreases. Anything over -60dBm(higher the negative, the worse it is) is acceptable. Go outside and do the same thing. Walk towards your shop and take note of where you lose signal. This would give us a better idea of what route is better to take.

My personal thought would be to buckle down and just run the cable to your shop. At 150', it would be the best and the cheapest.

Next best would be a point to point bridge. Something like this:
https://store.ubnt.com/products/5-ghz-nanobeam-16-db

My last choice would be anything that amplifies any current signals. With WiFi, we need to remember that it operates on spectrum. We fill up that spectrum, we receive interference.

I would discourage running two routers unless you have someone there that can help you configure it properly. There is nothing worse than trying to troubleshoot connectivity issues from rogue DHCP issues (unlikely but possible) or double NAT issues (highly likely).

Disclaimer: Networking is more of an ART. Everyone has different ways of doing it and may not agree with my views.
 
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