2012 Pro rmk cracked chaincase

N

Nate447

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Dec 23, 2016

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Silver Bay, MN

• Dec 23, 2016

• #1

I was looking over my sled the other day and found a crack on the bottom right side of the chain case and I'm about to order a new (to me) used one from a snowmobile salvage place that I like to work with.

Ive never done a chaincase swap before and I'm not really sure how it's done so if anybody could give a step by step and let me know if I need any special tools to do the job it would be greatly appreciated.

I'm new to this whole forum thing so feel free to let me know if I should do something differently.

Thanks in advance

 

05rmksteve

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Brainerd, MN

• Dec 23, 2016

• #2

On a 12 pro rmk the chain case is also glued in plus bolts. You will have to heat the glue up so it will let loose and it should also be glued back in. Where are you located at in MN. I think I have 1 tube of glue left.

 

05rmksteve

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• Dec 23, 2016

• #3

You will also want to replace the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings and seals.

 

trikerider

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• Dec 23, 2016

• #4

Was just on the CMX web site, the belt drive kit is now under $2000.

 

mtncat1

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south jordan ut.

• Dec 23, 2016

• #5

it's a piece of cake very straight forward, loosen the track to take pressure off the shaft. bearings will swap right over to new case , no need to replace shaft bearings unless they are bad .also no need to pull anything but the case .

 

ditch1000

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• Dec 23, 2016

• #6

Make sure to heat up the 2 bolts on the front of the chaincase really good also... They are glued in as well and you can strip out the torx head....Don't ask me how I know!!:face-icon-small-sho

 

Last edited: Dec 26, 2016

M

mtnsledder

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• Dec 24, 2016

• #7

Perfect time to upgrade to a takeoff belt drive from a 13.

 

ditch1000

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• Dec 24, 2016

• #8

mtnsledder said:

Perfect time to upgrade to a takeoff belt drive from a 13.

Click to expand...

X2!!

 

N

Nate447

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Silver Bay, MN

• Dec 24, 2016

• #9

05rmksteve said:

On a 12 pro rmk the chain case is also glued in plus bolts. You will have to heat the glue up so it will let loose and it should also be glued back in. Where are you located at in MN. I think I have 1 tube of glue left.

Click to expand...

I'm up in Silver Bay so a ways from you. What kind of glue do I need? Is it just something I can get from a parts store?

I'm still in college so as much as I want to go with a belt drive I can't really afford it sadly

 

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LoudHandle

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• Dec 24, 2016

• #10

You can get the glue and gun from Napa and most Body shop stores. But seeing as you're in college and on a budget, you'd be better of finding a gun and a partial cartridge of glue to borrow. IMO. About $100

Gun, Napa # MS FU300S
Glue Cartridge 50ML , Napa # MS FU111B (should come with at least one nozzle)
Extra Mixing Nozzles, Napa # MS FU400S

If you weren't on a tight budget upgrading to at least the QD would be my recommendation. Although I won't run anything less than the C3 Belt drive.

 

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MrIQR

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Bend, Oregon

• Dec 25, 2016

• #11

mtnsledder said:

Perfect time to upgrade to a takeoff belt drive from a 13.

Click to expand...

That would be a down grade to some, myself included.

 

ditch1000

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• Dec 26, 2016

• #12

LoudHandle said:

If you weren't on a tight budget upgrading to at least the QD would be my recommendation. Although I won't run anything less than the C3 Belt drive.

Click to expand...

X2!!
This is year 5 on mine!! I'm still on the original belt and it still looks new!!

 

sledhed

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• Jan 7, 2017

• #13

ditch1000 said:

Make sure to heat up the 2 bolts on the front of the chaincase really good also... They are glued in as well and you can strip out the torx head....Don't ask me how I know!!:face-icon-small-sho

Click to expand...

I stripped one too, thought I had plenty of heat on there, apparently it has to glow red? TKI belt drive instructions say a heat gun will work... not based on my experience, I put a lot of heat on that thing with a propane torch... 2015 belt drive Pro...