Where's the bang for the buck mods on the XM?

powdermuncher · Nov 22, 2015

Diamond s hood and can almost 40 pounds for a grand.

That is about the cheapest weight loss pound per dollar out there.

And that is with the Quiet exhaust.

Deep Powder Guy · Nov 22, 2015

Scotch brite pad and clutch cleaning solvent...Keeping your clutch clean & spotless each ride is the best bang for the buck....Change primary clutch spring every 600 miles is also recommended or buy a good spring from "Renton" ....OEM spring are junk quality.

DPG

powdermuncher · Nov 22, 2015

Not getting stuck and smokeking your clutch while jamed open will help out just as much

MtnDoo · Nov 22, 2015

tinkerjohnson said:
Any cheap weight loss or just a lot of $ for a little hear and there? i already have a can

Just some ideas:

Ti can
LiPo Batt (us old guys like ES)
Lexan hood
Ti Arms
Fox shocks or RCS Ti springs
WRP Seat
Tank (go to older single-lined)
Steering post
Skid (Timber, Nextech, EZRyde,etc)
Remove foam/fasteners/crap, no wrap, etc...
Drill holes. Lots of them.
15 wide track, port
Ti bolts
Sway bar out
gears/shafts/clutches
clutch cover removed
1/2 tank oil
1/2 tank of gas
Jenny Craig vids

Funny, do this every few years and the program is largely the same.

powdermuncher · Nov 22, 2015

That is just slightly over the $1000 limit :face-icon-small-hap

MtnDoo · Nov 22, 2015

Multiple choice answers. Excluding (D) All of the above.

tinkerjohnson · Nov 22, 2015

MtnDoo said:
Just some ideas:

Ti can
LiPo Batt (us old guys like ES)
Lexan hood
Ti Arms
Fox shocks or RCS Ti springs
WRP Seat
Tank (go to older single-lined)
Steering post
Skid (Timber, Nextech, EZRyde,etc)
Remove foam/fasteners/crap, no wrap, etc...
Drill holes. Lots of them.
15 wide track, port
Ti bolts
Sway bar out
gears/shafts/clutches
clutch cover removed
1/2 tank oil
1/2 tank of gas
Jenny Craig vids

Funny, do this every few years and the program is largely the same.

The last one would probably be the most bang for your buck, ha ha

Dynamo^Joe · Nov 23, 2015

Blk88GT said:
There used to be a ton of stuff available for my M series, but it seems like the new sleds just don't NEED the same stuff. Am I losing my mind?

Where's the sub $500 mods for the XM that work?

I have a great clutch kit for your 1 Fitty four.

This clutch kit converts more engine torque than you ever used before from your sled. The kit was step-by-step developed so the parts will work well with the efficiency of your 154 inch track.

The kit will dig deep and pull out all the muscles from the engine and has the ability to make them useful not only wherever, but however you are going to run the sled.

You feel a tight connection between your thumb and the snow. Drive the clutching as smart as you want; it’s a delight for accuracy in technical tree riding and then quickly accumulate more track speed in hill climbing.

When you want to drive more aggressive, the feeling is like having a gigantic hand on the front bumper, pulling you up even on the steepest hill “woo hoo”, and then holding the sled back by strong engine braking when coming down.

When you need to drive for fuel economy on the way out; drive it gently and you will be rewarded with lower fuel consumption from lower engine speed at part throttle to arrive back at the trailer.

There is more 800 power under your throttle thumb, just waiting to be used.

Gearing
With your stock gearing, the kit will accelerate hard and help maintain track speed as you climb. You don’t have to gear up with my particular setup.

Elevation examples
21.5 grams in clicker 3 at sea level to 2000 feet. (Winnipeg elevations)
15.9 grams in clicker 3 for 4500~6500,
13.9 grams in clicker 3 for Cooke city 8000~10000 feet.

Here is what you would install (4 parts)

167/390 primary spring (3500 engage)
Applicable pin kit
218/305 secondary spring
D2 helix

Future - if you ever went to a big bore for the future (872 Trygstad example) all you have to do is add flyweight for the increased torque and change to my 135/385 primary spring. The lower start force draws from deep within the 872 for 3300~3400 engagement and flare to 7900~8000 at your thumb's demand.

$334 CDN (estimated $249 USD today) (tx in Canada) + shipping.

info@iBackshift.com

powdermuncher · Nov 24, 2015

Hi Joe

Got you clutch kit and love it -- perfect in the backcountry all around.

On snow drags I usually hit shift out at around 600 feet on firm stuff it hits the rev limiter at that point. My question is how well will it pull on toot up top for all around riding in deep snow?

Dynamo^Joe · Nov 24, 2015

powdermuncher said:
Hi Joe

Got you clutch kit and love it -- perfect in the backcountry all around.

On snow drags I usually hit shift out at around 600 feet on firm stuff it hits the rev limiter at that point. My question is how well will it pull on toot up top for all around riding in deep snow?

What sled do you have?
what is "pull on toot up top" I do not know what that means.
joey

powdermuncher · Nov 24, 2015

I have a 2015 summit 800 154" track
Just wonder if you have experience with going up 1 tooth on the upper chain case sprocket ? Will it pull that in the deep stuff or is it to high a gearing at that point?

Excuse my fat Finger typing:face-icon-small-hap

Dynamo^Joe · Nov 24, 2015

Gearing you use to achieve the (X) trackspeed you need or pursue - the results will be based on "Locality", the snow conditions and type and the operating habits you have to the exclusion of anyone and anywhere else.

I have customers who've gone from 19:49 to a 20 top and a 21 top.
Ive had customers who've gone up to either of the two gears mentioned and left them installed because they like the results.
Ive had customers who've gone up to either of the two gears mentioned and gone back to the original 19.

Question) im wondering if i am loosing track speed by having the smallest top sprocket possible.
Answer) I dont know. All i know is, lower gearing gives “track speed staying power” so when you are augering through the snow a lower gear ratio is easier on the belt and will hold track speed for a longer period of time.

In deep snow when the back end is down quite a bit and augering through the snow, a 21 will run at a lower temperature than a 23 top gear. A 19 will run at a lower temperature than a 21 top gear. For every 1 tooth down you lose 4mph on top end but gain for “staying power” for track speed.

Whatever track speed you are going to get, you are going to get (Locality). A lower gear will maintain that track speed for a longer time at full throttle.

Now questions arise - what is "too low"? What is "too high" What is "just right for you"?
Answer) I dont know - its you and your sled. Im over here and you are over there so I can't give you an answer "yes or no" because then i would be assuming you and I have all the same facts we're running on.

Aaen 1989
Pg 40 - Gearing tall may have some penalties in acceleration depending on the power to weight ratio.
Pg 41 - Rule of thumb, gear as tall as you can without losing acceleration

BRP race manual
2016 pg 185 and 2004 pg 05-60
The best combination of gearing for speed and acceleration you can achieve is far more important than shifting the belt all the way to the top of the clutches (this is then using the overdrive portion)

Cutler Clutch tuning handbook
Pg 4 - Lower gear ratios also improve belt life in extreme deep powder snowmobiling conditions.

Every tuning handbook, Poo, Cat, Doo, Cutler, Aaen
When the belt position or radius are the same, we call this 1:1 clutch ratio. The clutches are now in their most efficient mode due to the fact that both drive and driven clutch belt radius' are larger. Larger belt radius turns with less effort creating better clutch efficiency.

powdermuncher · Nov 24, 2015

Wow Joe you outdid yourself on that one reading through this with my cool shades on I would guess that the 20 tooth may just be Ok in most conditions except for real heavy deep stuff. Will give it a try and report back thanks.....

sledMXer · Dec 1, 2015

BIG JOHN said:
gear up to a 20 top...$35
add a DOO blk qrs spring (stk blue is wrong)...$25
stock pin weight ok for 6000'on up...just use clickers...8000 rpm
if low elevation get an adj pin kit and run 19.5 grams low and 13.5 grams high...$50
SPI trail can is the best bang for the buck can...$275
shock rebuild/fresh oil and nitrogen...$200 or less
giver!!

BJ

Hey Big John,
I am putting on the 20 tooth and black spring this Friday. My 2014 Summit X is stock other than an HPS can. Anything else I should know or do?

Thanks for the tip, we'll see how it works if/when we get some snow.

SledMXer

dennis · Dec 26, 2015

Wt. Loss

Think if you dropped the cheese burgers and onion rings for a month you'd drop as much weight and also give your coronary vessels a break. Really, Fox shocks are gonna' save wt.? What are you measuring the mass of an electron?

powdermuncher said:
That is just slightly over the $1000 limit :face-icon-small-hap

swovay696 · Dec 28, 2015

BIG JOHN said:
gear up to a 20 top...$35
add a DOO blk qrs spring (stk blue is wrong)...$25
stock pin weight ok for 6000'on up...just use clickers...8000 rpm
if low elevation get an adj pin kit and run 19.5 grams low and 13.5 grams high...$50
SPI trail can is the best bang for the buck can...$275
shock rebuild/fresh oil and nitrogen...$200 or less
giver!!

BJ

So I went to the doo dealer to get a gear, spring, and weight kit for my xm, and they were not a help at all. Said they could only get a 19, or 21 top gear. Couldn't find the spring, and I didn't evan try on the weight kit.
Does anybody know the part numbers for these items. Then I can just order online. Thanks

lonerider1 · Dec 28, 2015

First and foremost. Align the primary and secondary. Already seen 2 16 models as much as 3/16's out. No bucks, just a little skin.

nickPSD · Dec 28, 2015

swovay696 said:
So I went to the doo dealer to get a gear, spring, and weight kit for my xm, and they were not a help at all. Said they could only get a 19, or 21 top gear. Couldn't find the spring, and I didn't evan try on the weight kit.
Does anybody know the part numbers for these items. Then I can just order online. Thanks

Just call John, he is always been a big help to me :juggle:

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Where's the bang for the buck mods on the XM?

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