• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Tie Rod ends being discontinued....

A
Oct 20, 2014
105
7
18
So I went to my local dealer and he said the non PTO side steering tie rod is not longer being made.... With that in mind it might be nice to find a dealer or someone who knows of an alternative for us Gen II guys...

From what I can tell most of the tie rods are 3/8"-24 tie rods and 7/16"-24 for our sleds. I am referring to the radius rod ends (upper and lower) along with the steering rod ends.

The shop was trying to tell me that the rod length plays a big factor along with how tall the bushing sat etc... I think not. In the 4x4 community, as long as everything matches then your fine. I have a cut off wheel and a bunch of other tools if I needed to cut the threads shorter.

I know they need to be left handed threads... Anyone have a good site they order theirs from? Dealer wants $120 for 3 ends! I know on my Polaris Ranger I can get replacements for next to nothing (12.99/ea).
 

LoudHandle

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 21, 2011
3,900
2,775
113
Valdez, AK
I likely have new ones in my spare parts stuff. As I used to race back in that generation. Send me a PM with what you are short and I'll look for you. If need be I can text pics of the rod ends to confirm first.
 
A
Oct 20, 2014
105
7
18
All of the ones below are bent or the threads are broken off making the thread side shorter than what they should be, but that should give you an idea of what they look like. The bottom one is the one that is discontinued. Also, from what I can tell the ski side of the rods are all left hand thread, and the ones that are mounted to the chassis are right hand thread if that helps. Basically on end links you need a left hand threaded and a right hand threaded end rod for each link. So if you weren't sure, you could just order a left hand thread rod end and a right hand rod end for each link and you would be good.

I would stick to the fact that the ski side is left hand threads and the chassis side is right hand threads to keep things simple. The other fact I forgot to mention is the steering link ski side uses tie rods ends, the rest of the suspension uses heim joint ends.

IMG_0190.jpg


IMG_0191.jpg
 
Last edited:

LoudHandle

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 21, 2011
3,900
2,775
113
Valdez, AK
Looks like most of the ones I have left are the EDGE style. On the EDGE they put the LH rod ends inboard and the RH rod ends out board.

Are your Radius rods threaded on both ends? If so with the rod ends I've found I can get you going. If not what length do you need? I likely have those as well.
 
S
Oct 6, 2010
18
8
3
I just replaced 4 ski side rod ends with standard 7/16" and 1/2" rod ends. Had a buddy machine spacers for bolts on each. ordered all 4 standard non Polaris LH rod ends for the price of 1 Polaris one. I also like the fact they don't have the rubber bushing in them, as long as they get maintained on a normal basis they seem to work great.
 

treetopflyer

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 10, 2007
74
31
18
59
Im sure every part you need can be purchased at many places. I personally have equipped 4 sleds complete from hiperf.com. they have every radious rod 3/8 7/16 1/2 in left and right thread. ive just used spacers. I also don't bother using a tie rod end on the steering. just a rod end.
 
A
Oct 20, 2014
105
7
18
I wanted to post some pictures that I hope doesn't go against the forum rules...

I was tired of paying $24-40 for a single factory heim joint or tie rod end. I decided to try a generic heim joint. This method may wear out your heim joints quicker, but at the price of these joints I decided it was worth it. and the ease of install/replacement is fairly straight forward.

This is the process I used for the lower Radius Rods.

1. Buy 4 M10-1.5 Fender Washers
2. Buy XML-8 LH thread (1/2") Heim Joint from eBay.
3. Tack weld 2 fender washers together to make a spacer, then weld the other two together.
4. Let fender washers cool or put them in tank of water
5. Install Heim Joint and add newly made spacers to either side of Heim Joint.
6. Install bolt and tighten down nut.

This worked great and the heim joint can still move as you can see in the last picture below. Total cost for 2, $24, plus cost of washers.

IMG_0238.jpg

IMG_0239.jpg

IMG_0240.jpg

IMG_0241.jpg

IMG_0242.jpg
 
Last edited:
Premium Features