Free or Cheap Mods

stevepolaris · Oct 10, 2012

thought id bring this over here was on dootalk.. This will be for Free/ cheap Mods only, let's keep it under $50 Let's try to have pic's with them also. Maybe add the benefit of the mod also

here are some already

Pull out all the foam when it gets wet and freezes it gets heavy
by:rocks rev

post forward, pretty well known mod, supposedly helps carve and sidehill easier (I haven't ridden it this way yet).

The picture shows the holes in the back, where the rear mounts of the post used to go. Simply take the bolts out push the post forward, put one of the bolts back in, drill out the front hole, second bolt in and you're good to go.

Total cost-$0

Go to 1st pic

(since I have giant feet) is to cut the panels open for more foot room, it doesn't move you more forward, but it certainly helps get your feet in/out/etc. After being "hooked in" the stirrup and getting my foot broke on my first REV, this seems to help a lot.
See 2-3

Printing some graph paper online and carefully laying it out on your panels and drilling a 5/64" grid pattern is good for some cheap/easy/free venting too.
See 4-5

i took a piece of masking tape and masked from the snow flap mount to the drop bracket and trimmed my tunnel to have a nice even rise instead of the weird stock style, and i cut my running boards and raised them up.
see 6-7

the switch relocate. i used a buzzer button from ace for the reverse and toggle switches for the hand warmers and lights
see 8

go to home depot and ask for some "pet screen". i did a headlight delete and use a small fog light from oriely's, and replaced the stock metal screens with the pet screen. i used hot glue and its pretty strong actually.
see 9-10

next is the 2 wheel kit! free if you have a tap set. these are not my instructions, i found them off of another site

cut the axle to 8 7/8"
cut the spacer to 4 1/4"
tap the axle with the correct metric threads, or use a 3/8 course SAE it works ok.

Take the plastic piece off the clutch cover, trim the tabs off, and put some holes in it.... Let that thing stay cool....
see 11

stevepolaris · Oct 10, 2012

Sway bar removal & stiffen up front springs (if it fits your riding style), removal of track clips (clipped every other/every third) small ports in ctr of track (1") clips & porting usually good for 3.5-4lbs on a 151 track. Spending some time to set-up clutching & suspension for YOUR riding style/ weight

stevepolaris · Oct 10, 2012

ski brake... just get a old belt and cut it

wildcard28 · Oct 10, 2012

Did the same thing, I seen my buddy climb a nasty steep hillside last year in crusty spring snow and he actually was more nervous having to come down it rather than up and brakes did not work so he twisted the extra belt up and looped it over the skis and I was amazed on how he creeped back down litteraly had to stay on the throttle a bit to come all the way down, he usually carried one of these under the hood but just before this ride that day he took it out,

anyway the next week I went home found an old belt clip and an old belt and made this and mounted it to the tunnel

Real cool mod and works great.

this litteraly only took about 15minutes including mounting the clip to the tunnel.

Wildcard

powderman800 · Oct 10, 2012

Air Box Delete

Mod: The two piece REV air box is giant. Delete it; two pre-filters on the carbs works fine.
Benefit: Air flow improved & weight loss & lots more under hood space.
Price: approx. $50 (for 2 filters)
Alternative: I like the Timbersled intake. Its about $250. Great product IMO.

Mod: REV gauge clusters have a gauge blank. SLP makes a Flo-Rite for it.
Benefit: More airflow
Price: $36 from SLP
Alternative: BRTech makes a sweet hood pod with headlight delete & intake. Spendy.

Mod: Windshield removal. I F^CKING HATE WINDSHIELDS!!!!!!!!!!!
Benefit: Don't look like a tool & don't bust $80 pieces of plastic on the first twig that touchs it!
Price: FREE
Alternative: Some windshields are okay, but if you keep your stocker you look like a tool or an old dude.

m8magicandmystery · Oct 10, 2012

wildcard28 said:
Did the same thing, I seen my buddy climb a nasty steep hillside last year in crusty spring snow and he actually was more nervous having to come down it rather than up and brakes did not work so he twisted the extra belt up and looped it over the skis and I was amazed on how he creeped back down litteraly had to stay on the throttle a bit to come all the way down, he usually carried one of these under the hood but just before this ride that day he took it out,

anyway the next week I went home found an old belt clip and an old belt and made this and mounted it to the tunnel

Real cool mod and works great.

this litteraly only took about 15minutes including mounting the clip to the tunnel.

Wildcard

a loop of winch cable on each ski..(1/4 inch 10 in diameter) works really well and can be rolled up

bwylde · Oct 11, 2012

a couple of leather dog collars work pretty well too, and you can stash them just about anywhere.

gman086 · Oct 11, 2012

I've done more mods than most (as those that know me on Dootalk can attest) and the one that is BY FAR the best free/low cost mod you can do on a Doo is my track cut:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2732998#post2732998
Will transform your sled into a more agile beast yet still retain deep snow floatation!

Have FUN!

G MAN

wildcard28 · Oct 11, 2012

gman086 said:
I've done more mods than most (as those that know me on Dootalk can attest) and the one that is BY FAR the best free/low cost mod you can do on a Doo is my track cut:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2732998#post2732998
Will transform your sled into a more agile beast yet still retain deep snow floatation!

Have FUN!

G MAN

Hello G Man, How many sleds have you done this too and noticed the difference from before and after you modded the track?

I`m not doubting you in any way I have done alot of mods I have seen you do and suggest to others and happy with everyone, I am going to put a 163x16x2.5 XP track or one like it on my Rev which is getting a chassis swap that has a VE Drop and Roll and a few other mods to it so I can go bigger lug..
I am going to do you mod to that track. just curious to you answer to my question.

Also for the XP tracks out there, which one do you recommend is the better one or year to have? thats not the overported one.

Thanks, Wildcard

snowboatboy · Oct 11, 2012

stevepolaris said:
ski brake... just get a old belt and cut it

I am curious how exactly a ski brake works, where is it put on the ski?

wildcard28 · Oct 11, 2012

snowboatboy said:
I am curious how exactly a ski brake works, where is it put on the ski?

just slide it over the ski like a loop it will come up to the spindle when the sled it movin forward it will be looped and angles back around and under the bottom of the ski with the top holdin against the spindle and the bottom help rearward under the ski acting like a scoop in a scence causing alot of drag and holdback of snow against the belt under the ski and that hold back will feel like you are constantly on the brakes just from the front, put one on both skis and you can creep down steep hills

kinda confusing to explain, Make one put in on you sled or store it somewhere and just try it out even on the trail a time or two and you`ll be amazed.

if you have an old dried out not rideable belt layin around things to put over the ski or skis anything that will go around it and cause drag under the ski should work. And free mod!!! cut , drill hole bolt and nut don`t even need the clip put it in a tunnel bag or under the hood somewhere. personally the belt idea would cause more braking effort or drag...

I have even seen this idea,this one is obviously adjust able to any size you could use high strength plastic chain also, I saved this pic to my pc but I would rather have the belt won`t scratch up the spindle or skis.

Wildcard

m8magicandmystery · Oct 11, 2012

snowboatboy said:
I am curious how exactly a ski brake works, where is it put on the ski?

just throw it over the ski tip and it slides back and topside she is front of the spindle and bottom side she is back of the spindle...seriously you do actually have to give it gas to go down some hills..

gman086 · Oct 12, 2012

wildcard28 said:
Hello G Man, How many sleds have you done this too and noticed the difference from before and after you modded the track?

I`m not doubting you in any way I have done alot of mods I have seen you do and suggest to others and happy with everyone, I am going to put a 163x16x2.5 XP track or one like it on my Rev which is getting a chassis swap that has a VE Drop and Roll and a few other mods to it so I can go bigger lug..
I am going to do you mod to that track. just curious to you answer to my question.

Also for the XP tracks out there, which one do you recommend is the better one or year to have? thats not the overported one.

Thanks, Wildcard

Hey Wildcard,

I've done the mod to both of my Doos - converted Rev to a bump and jump Gade with 136"x16"x1.75" track and to my '07 Summit with an '08 XP 154"x16"x2.3" track (the over-ported one). Solved the port issue with Felker's flappers which let the snow out and not in so best of both worlds there too. Very happy with that track now but it was a lot of work to get there. If I had to do over I would just buy the new 16" wide Challenger Extreme as it already comes with the lugs cut down to 15" wide (Camoplast is catching on to this trick too!).

Have FUN!

G MAN

wildcard28 · Oct 13, 2012

Hello G Man, thanks I have been lookin at the CE track most likely the one I`ll go with Thanks For the Reply, always respect your advice.

Back to topic, More Free or Inexpensive Mods Please.....

I`ll post another one I came up with, Are you tired of no place to put your goggles when you take them off your Helmet ( with Quick Straps)
or to set them some where with out them always fallin off the sled or in the snow this happens to me just after I get done wiping them dry and clean
I swear everytime, so I took one of the Pic sticky things thats sticky to you helmet for the quick straps and stuck it to the controls on the handle bars and put the velcro piece on the handle bar pad, This works Awesome now my goggles hang from the handle bars or barpad and don`t slide off the seat or dash anymore.
I had this all last year and love it.

This year I have changed to 2011 XP freeride aluminum bars and so I will restick the platic piece Im talking about to the mastercylinder cap..

( No longer have the LH throttle that thing was dangerous I hit it in accidently twice last year when I was suposed to be stopping and to my surprise pulled
throttle wide open ended up shooting thru some small trees until my one ski climbed up one of those trees and flipped right over as sled was Wide Open headed
takin me down the hill till the tree caught and flipped me, thank goodness for Tethor cord )

Wildcard

stevepolaris · Oct 13, 2012

coming along good so far track cutting is a good idea

skidoo_guy · Oct 15, 2012

wildcard28 said:
Hello G Man, thanks I have been lookin at the CE track most likely the one I`ll go with Thanks For the Reply, always respect your advice.

Back to topic, More Free or Inexpensive Mods Please.....

I`ll post another one I came up with, Are you tired of no place to put your goggles when you take them off your Helmet ( with Quick Straps)
or to set them some where with out them always fallin off the sled or in the snow this happens to me just after I get done wiping them dry and clean
I swear everytime, so I took one of the Pic sticky things thats sticky to you helmet for the quick straps and stuck it to the controls on the handle bars and put the velcro piece on the handle bar pad, This works Awesome now my goggles hang from the handle bars or barpad and don`t slide off the seat or dash anymore.
I had this all last year and love it.

This year I have changed to 2011 XP freeride aluminum bars and so I will restick the platic piece Im talking about to the mastercylinder cap..

( No longer have the LH throttle that thing was dangerous I hit it in accidently twice last year when I was suposed to be stopping and to my surprise pulled
throttle wide open ended up shooting thru some small trees until my one ski climbed up one of those trees and flipped right over as sled was Wide Open headed
takin me down the hill till the tree caught and flipped me, thank goodness for Tethor cord )

Wildcard

We always just strap them around the back of the helmet.

wildcard28 · Oct 16, 2012

I like it this way, alot of times when I strap them around the back of my helmet it stretchs the straps alot tighter than when on your face and the velcro comes loose alot quicker in the cold and doesn`t seem to hold that well , My goggles come on and off the other side pin pretty easy I trimmed the corvers so you don`t have to snap them off and on so hard.

also when have them around the back of the helmet most times they are upside down snow get built up in the lower vents of the goggle if its snowing pretty good since they are upside down around the back of the helmet most the time anyway I done it all different ways thats why I come up with this works better for me when stopped and taking a break or switchin out goggles can attach 2 pair of goggle from the bars and not have them layin somewhere on the sled and always seem to fall in the snow
and getting the inside of the goggles filled....

Just my 02.

Wildcard

rocks rev · Oct 26, 2012

I moved my tool pouch holder to here along with a spare I had.

wildcard28 · Oct 26, 2012

Hello Stevenpolaris, I seen in the pic of your starting post you have the timbersled pod filter set up, how do you like it? Is your engine stock, did you have to rejet for the filters?

I`m editing this post, I just looked at your pics and by the looks of the up angle of you pod filters is you engine a 1000?

Thanks, Wildcard

kevinm7 · Nov 11, 2012

@stevepolaris
When you cut your running boards and raised them up, how did you reinforce them back to the tunnel on the back end? Did you build a custom bracket? I want to do this to my Rev, but need to figure out how to support them and keep from bending. Thanks.

Free or Cheap Mods

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