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C3 block or HCR steering post upgrade

B
Mar 16, 2011
180
35
28
Helena MT
Hi guys. Back on a cat this year. Bought a 15 m8000. Coming off my xm. I would really like to ditch the adjustable bars and go back to a fixed post like the Xm. I would like to get it forward also. My question is does the HCR post mod from cat move them forward or same position and fixed? I'm going to either do a big bore or turbo kit, if I do the turbo I'm sure the stock airbox goes away, so I'm not too worried about the c3, if I don't do a turbo I'm not sure I want to cut the box. I'm sure this has been beaten to death, I have read several posts on the subject already but still am not clear what to do. Thanks in advance!
 
J

Jacob02

Member
Feb 14, 2015
98
24
8
MinnesOOOta
Well. If you're contemplating a Turbo... an extra Airbox, fixed steering post, and C3 kit is cheap.

I thought it was pretty labor intensive myself... The cutting part.
 
B
Mar 16, 2011
180
35
28
Helena MT
Well. If you're contemplating a Turbo... an extra Airbox, fixed steering post, and C3 kit is cheap.

I thought it was pretty labor intensive myself... The cutting part.

It sounds like it. That's why I was curious on the HCR post conversion. Cat sells the kit in their accessory book
 
J

Jacob02

Member
Feb 14, 2015
98
24
8
MinnesOOOta
You'll need the following parts along with the C3 kit plus a riser of your choice:

o 1605-118 (2) caps
o 8408-830 (4) bolt M8x1.25x30
o 1705-309 (1) steering post
 

Chewy22

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 17, 2009
1,993
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Montana
So the HCR post doesn't move it forward at all, same location just fixed?


The post is in the same location as the adjustable. However, you can push the bars forward a bit by angling the riser forward.


Once the snow flies, I'll have both setups on the hill at the same time. Switching back and forth will give me a good idea which setup I like better.


For real technical riding lower is better, regardless which setup you go with. I've used both a 3 1/2" and 4 1/2" riser on my C3 setup.


Overall I like my body position on the C3 setup and it's very comfortable. It did seem like I flew over the bars/hood more often and more easily with the C3 setup. My height could be a big contributing factor also.
 
B
Mar 16, 2011
180
35
28
Helena MT
The post is in the same location as the adjustable. However, you can push the bars forward a bit by angling the riser forward.


Once the snow flies, I'll have both setups on the hill at the same time. Switching back and forth will give me a good idea which setup I like better.


For real technical riding lower is better, regardless which setup you go with. I've used both a 3 1/2" and 4 1/2" riser on my C3 setup.


Overall I like my body position on the C3 setup and it's very comfortable. It did seem like I flew over the bars/hood more often and more easily with the C3 setup. My height could be a big contributing factor also.


how tall are you?
 
B

bradburck

Well-known member
Jan 13, 2008
1,006
298
83
Colorado
I have done both and more than a season on both...

doing it again I would do the post forward. Did mine with a 2" riser and I'm 6'2", but prefer a low set of bars. The sweep of the bars is different, but easy to get used too would be SUPER easy coming from an XM. I liked being able to get more forward on the chassis when I wanted too and I felt like helped with wash out in the steepest areas as well as being aggressive on the trail in and out, got my weight off more off the rear skid so I could run lower pressures back there as well.

Get as much weight off the sled as you can with an intake, etc and it really is a solid package.

Plus I HATED the slop in the adjustable post on all M sleds since they added it, have been on a fixed post after 1 year of the adjustable years ago. Best of luck, it's a great sled, a better overall package than the XM in my opinion.
 
B
Mar 16, 2011
180
35
28
Helena MT
I have done both and more than a season on both...

doing it again I would do the post forward. Did mine with a 2" riser and I'm 6'2", but prefer a low set of bars. The sweep of the bars is different, but easy to get used too would be SUPER easy coming from an XM. I liked being able to get more forward on the chassis when I wanted too and I felt like helped with wash out in the steepest areas as well as being aggressive on the trail in and out, got my weight off more off the rear skid so I could run lower pressures back there as well.

Get as much weight off the sled as you can with an intake, etc and it really is a solid package.

Plus I HATED the slop in the adjustable post on all M sleds since they added it, have been on a fixed post after 1 year of the adjustable years ago. Best of luck, it's a great sled, a better overall package than the XM in my opinion.


thanks a lot! so you would do both fixed post and the block? also thanks for the info on the XM comparison. I was worried I would like this sled less... was thinking of riding it before spending money on either a turbo or big bore, but I have had several people say they like they was this chassis handles.
 

Chewy22

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Oct 17, 2009
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Montana
im 6ft2, curious as which riser you liked better...



I started with the 3 1/2" then switched to the 4 1/2". For everything besides real technical steeper terrain I like the 4 better. But this year if I decide to use my C3 post forward setup, I will use the 3 and adapt to it.


What I really want to try is what Wyo did to his 16. Fixed post setup, shortened 2 inches and using the small ski-doo adjustable riser. All the way up puts the bars at stock height. The only problem is cat's t-top is almost to narrow for the ski-doo riser. You can get it to work but can collapse on hard hits. If I guy was real ambitious a ski-doo t-top could be welded onto the cat post.
 
B
Mar 16, 2011
180
35
28
Helena MT
I started with the 3 1/2" then switched to the 4 1/2". For everything besides real technical steeper terrain I like the 4 better. But this year if I decide to use my C3 post forward setup, I will use the 3 and adapt to it.


What I really want to try is what Wyo did to his 16. Fixed post setup, shortened 2 inches and using the small ski-doo adjustable riser. All the way up puts the bars at stock height. The only problem is cat's t-top is almost to narrow for the ski-doo riser. You can get it to work but can collapse on hard hits. If I guy was real ambitious a ski-doo t-top could be welded onto the cat post.


Is there 2 different c3 post relocation kits? a 3" and 2"? if s which did you use?
 

Chewy22

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Oct 17, 2009
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Montana
does it sound correct that you don't need to trim the airbox with the 2"?

I don't know for certain, but I think it will still need to be cut. Look how close the stock post is to the air box. If you move that forward 2 inches still think a cut is needed
 
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