Bearcat will not idle

fj40 · Nov 18, 2012

I know it's not a M 1 but not sure where to post.
A friend of mine just bought a 2009 bearcat with under 100 miles on it that has not run for 2 years.
It did not idle very good when we pick it up. We drained and put new gas in it, cleaned the carbs.
Runs better but still will not idle. When we let go of the throttle it dies because of lack of spark.
The switch on the throttle pivot seems to work but where is the switch for when the throttle is released

CATSLEDMAN1 · Nov 18, 2012

time bad gas

sitting and not running is 99% old gas issues. So when you clean the carbs you need to remove the pilot jets, run a wire through them, then blow some carb cleaner up through the holesw where the pilot jet came out and look through that hole with light and confirm its clean. Ditto for main jets and needle jets. Pull choke valves and clean passages. Pull air screws and clean them. Make sure throttle cables are seated correctly and visually confirm carb slides return to rest on idle adjustment screws. Not sure what carb setup you have, but if its the god old round slides you need to remove carbs and syn both cables.

Now you can start and adjust idle with air screws and idle screws.

fj40 · Nov 18, 2012

yes I cleaned all that but now it will not idle because when I release the
throttle there is no spark, I'm not sure if it had this issue (no spark)before I cleaned
the carbs. Thanks for the reply

diggerdown · Nov 19, 2012

Did you unplug the switch on the pivot? If not try that, sounds like you may have your throttle cable too tight.

Idcatman1 · Nov 19, 2012

Several possibilities come to mind. #1 pilot jets may still be partially plugged. #2 Throttle slides out of sync. #3Throttle cable too loose, sounds most likely from what you are describing. If you can get it to idle by keeping a little tension on the throttle lever but it dies when you let go, that would be my best guess. Sorry to disagree with diggerdown but I think too loose is more the problem than too tight. The cable adjusters are on the top of the throttle slide caps on the carburetors. You will need to have the air box off and make sure both slides are even. I sync them wide open, it is a lot easier than trying to get them even at idle. Tighten the cables until there is just a little slack at the throttle lever.

diggerdown · Nov 19, 2012

Right on the too loose, I had a senior moment and the "letting off shut down did not compute. Should be about 1/8" between the flipper and control block. To adjust the carb sync, tie the flipper down to the bars and use a straight edge on top of the carb. Usuing a drill bit under the throttle plates when they are at rest is the accepted way but I've had better luck measuring off the top.

fj40 · Nov 19, 2012

Thanks for the info
I know it the safety switch that is killing it so with the cables tighten up that should stop it from dyeing???
Will try to tighten up the cables and get them in sync.
How hard is it to remove the air box?
I removed the carbs through the secondary side what a pain that was.

diggerdown · Nov 19, 2012

Not sure on the bearcat, the old 900 took about 30 seconds to take it out. two bungie loops and unplug the wires. Had to take the cover off to put it back on to get the carb boots fitted on. How in the world did you get the carbs out without pulling the air box?

fj40 · Nov 19, 2012

It wasn't fun pulling the carbs with out removing the air box.
Like I said I helped a friend and he didn't want to pull all the body panels off
so i think we could of run the throttle cable the wrong way and loosened it
up so the safety switch will cut the power off. The bearcat is a lot like the
new Arctic cats, so I will have to remove top panels speedo and what ever.

Idcatman1 · Nov 21, 2012

I just looked at the parts diagram of the airbox. It looks like a pain in the arse to get to the carbs. That and other reasons are why I'll be riding my older stuff for a long time to come.

fj40 · Nov 23, 2012

Can you post the parts diagram of the airbox for me.
before I rip it apart Like I said it's a friend of mine and I don't like messing
it up for him thanks

Idcatman1 · Nov 23, 2012

I am not that savvy, but you can do better anyway. Go to

http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/

click on snowmobile on the bar toward the upper right, then parts and then new. That will get you to where you can click on the year and model and you can get to the parts diagrams from there. I have been using them for several years, practically priceless info.

fj40 · Nov 24, 2012

So I went out and worked on the bearcat today.Pulled the top off very easy , didn't pull the air box but worked okay.
I still could not get the throttle safety switch to work at idle so we jammed a nail in the throttle pivot. No safety switch but
got it to work. I will have to research how the switch is set and works.

fj40 · Nov 24, 2012

Ok so i research the problem How do I set Magnetic Carburetor Switch
on a 2009 570 bearcat. I took them off so I can clean the carbs
when i put the carbs back together the bearcat would not start
( because there was no spark ) unless the throttle was pulled.
I bypassed the throttle safety switch now it runs fine.
I would like to get the safety switch working right.

Idcatman1 · Nov 25, 2012

You have to get just the right amount of slack in the throttle cable. In my biased opinion you are better off without the safety switch. It seems to me to be about 95% of ignition and starting troubles with the sleds that have it.
Just my $.02 worth.

diggerdown · Nov 25, 2012

I would put a teather switch on it and unplug the safety switch. I've seen guys get towed out of the hills just because they got a little snow in the switch and could not figure it out.

fj40 · Nov 25, 2012

Thanks I think he will just leave the nail jammed into the throttle pivot.

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