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Why do a y-can on a m1000, when a stock 2010 m8 is just as capable and more reliable.

WyoBoy1000

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Recently there has been quite a bit of talk about the m1000 with a y pipe and can mod and weather you need a fuel controller or not, or egts or what ever. My question is why in the heII would you want just a y-can, most of the time a 2010 m8 will beat a y-can m1000 and can be made lighter. You are also dealing with a reliability issue as the m1000 with mods can be blown up pretty easy in the right conditions vs a very reliable m8(with a warranty). I can see wanting a little more if you already have one or if your a 250+lb person, but If your going to mod your taking risks and can't be cheap, such as egts are very beneficial. But why not go at least with a full pipe (SLP or SW) which will put you ahead of a 2010 m8, I have beat 2010 m8's and I weighed over 70lbs more. The y-can doesn't come close to the power of a full exhaust with a good map and clutching. I have tried many different combination, I also had a friend with a y-can on a 09 m1 sp (mine is a std) he is 60+lbs lighter and with the full slp mine walked all over his. So go find your balls or pull them down and make the right choice.

I also know few guys that went to xp's because there m1000's never ran with a y-can and wound up scuffing pistons. they said the xp's did more until I made fools out of them, I havent seen them since. I did have mine running strong with a y-can but had to add a lot of fuel on top, just not worth it to me. Now I will go get my popcorn why everyone tries to justify there discussion.

All in all if you don't have balls, bills or brains to do it all just get a 2010-11 m8.
 

Saddle sore

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I'm the 250+ that needs more power. Beside's it's fun for me to work on my sled. I sit in an office all week listening to all the BS that goes on in an office and buy the week end I need a release. Some people play softball, some drink, some play golf, some people just like to play with wrenches. Just my 2 cents
 

WyoBoy1000

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Why not the full exhaust, my main question is, (or statement). Either do the full exhaust or get a m8.

You can get everything, exhaust, clutching, fuel controller pre programmed, from slp and it works. Should always get egts too.

Or if you bought one for a little more torque, ie for the big guys, just put on a can and its still reliable, and there is not a whole lot of difference.

The difference could be argued, but to get the potential out of it you have to reclutch, add fuel and should have egts. So if your going through the trouble why beitch out and not do the full pipe. scared or what.

I am kinda giving people chit, but this makes no sense in the real world, and many have no idea what they are missing.

I have also heard people say the stock pipe makes more power, I say prove it, because I have proven other wise.
 

Saddle sore

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I get what your saying. The problem I had last year was that I ran out of money after buying The pipe set, BD Box and A/F mixture gauge. I didn't have enough to buy egt's, BDX power valve kit and a fuel pressure regulator. So I just put the y-pipe and can on. with my budget I can only afford to do a few mod's a year. So I have to prioritize them year to year. And I sure I'm not the only one in that boat.
 
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HiWaYman92

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I have ridden an M1000 with fuel box and full slp set up, and it was a large improvement over stock. With that said, you have a bunch of money spent, tweaking, and no warranty. My 10 M8 bone stock still stomped it in every situation. (The 1000's rider weighed probably 20 more pounds than me.) I had a 1000, and was at the stage where I either got rid of it, or added a bunch of go fast parts, or ditched it, and put the money toward a new sled with warranty, worth more, and dependable. I've never looked back... seriously!
 
J
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Recently there has been quite a bit of talk about the m1000 with a y pipe and can mod and weather you need a fuel controller or not, or egts or what ever. My question is why in the heII would you want just a y-can, most of the time a 2010 m8 will beat a y-can m1000 and can be made lighter. You are also dealing with a reliability issue as the m1000 with mods can be blown up pretty easy in the right conditions vs a very reliable m8(with a warranty). I can see wanting a little more if you already have one or if your a 250+lb person, but If your going to mod your taking risks and can't be cheap, such as egts are very beneficial. But why not go at least with a full pipe (SLP or SW) which will put you ahead of a 2010 m8, I have beat 2010 m8's and I weighed over 70lbs more. The y-can doesn't come close to the power of a full exhaust with a good map and clutching. I have tried many different combination, I also had a friend with a y-can on a 09 m1 sp (mine is a std) he is 60+lbs lighter and with the full slp mine walked all over his. So go find your balls or pull them down and make the right choice.

I also know few guys that went to xp's because there m1000's never ran with a y-can and wound up scuffing pistons. they said the xp's did more until I made fools out of them, I havent seen them since. I did have mine running strong with a y-can but had to add a lot of fuel on top, just not worth it to me. Now I will go get my popcorn why everyone tries to justify there discussion.

All in all if you don't have balls, bills or brains to do it all just get a 2010-11 m8.


Why? Because I got an 07 M1000 with D&D y, can, fuel reg and AMP head for 5500 with less then 800 miles on it. With Fuel set at 51psi plugs look great and it rips. Why sink another couple grand into it for a few more ponies? You might be rich, but most of us arent. If done right, the Y+can is a great set up for the $$. I have 2500 miles on this set up so far with no complaints, this sled rips. People seem to forget that rider ability and fitness are some of the best mods you can do. Sure, If I had 10k to spend I'd ride a 2010 M8, I'd rather spend what money I have for sledding on gas.
 
B
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Wyo...

It doesn't have to stop at the can to be simple.

Many sled are capable of running much more.

I've had a pull & go sled with no box that walks on piped 1000's consistently. (haven't run into one without much more that compares)

Y, intake, head, can, oil delete. Still no controller, but if I DID run a controller (I would under 8500 feet, she gets hot at 9k), it would be very easy to program due to the pipe being stock & therefore no significant RPM increase, also, running lower RPM I personally feel works better for simple tuning.

You just have to be smart about it & be systematic in how you do the installs & how you test on first run if you don't want to run a controller. (oh... and not being a moron & running last years gas full bore would be good too...)

No m8 will be coming close without significant mods.

The M8 is great, but the potential of the simpler mods on the 1000 have been overlooked imo. A pipe isn't the be all end all & it creates a tuning situation that is harder for the average guy to set up.
 

WyoBoy1000

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Don't take this the wrong way, even though it might seem as though I am being a dick. Its just my way of getting responses and learning. So call me out or what have you but please don't be offended by my blunt statements.
The pipe set, BD Box and A/F mixture gauge.
This is enough to run the pipe with a little mod in clutching and you would be set. I get the money thing.
My 10 M8 bone stock still stomped it in every situation.
You make my point. Just lacking on brains lol. I would have to blame it on a bad setup. I have beat stock 2010 m8's and weighed at least 70+lbs more. I also setup the suspension and everything else to make the 8 perform at its best. Your going to have to prove me wrong in person because I am sick of people saying one thing and I keep going out and proving other wise. There is also another m1000 that beats mine, might be because of weight but it rips.
Why? Because I got an 07 M1000 with D&D y, can, fuel reg and AMP head for 5500 with less then 800 miles on it. With Fuel set at 51psi plugs look great and it rips. Why sink another couple grand into it for a few more ponies? You might be rich, but most of us arent. If done right, the Y+can is a great set up for the $$. I have 2500 miles on this set up so far with no complaints, this sled rips. People seem to forget that rider ability and fitness are some of the best mods you can do. Sure, If I had 10k to spend I'd ride a 2010 M8, I'd rather spend what money I have for sledding on gas.
Don't make accusations, I am not rich, If I was I would be on a tm1000, I priorities and do what I can, and if I couldn't have the full pipe I wouldn't be riding a mod sled, Fact is its cheaper to make a payment on a stock 2010 m8 than it is if you have a problem with the other as the m8 has a warranty, I was riding warrantied sleds until I could afford it. mods and a burn downs cost extra money, I have also proven what you think might be pull and go is not as it can change from one ride to the next, I have setup my sled to run in the safe zone and still had egts that where to high on the next ride. As for ability, My rider ability is now hindered by a lesser sled, Don't spill it unless you can teach me something, time to upgrade but I still have to save a little more.
Wyo...

It doesn't have to stop at the can to be simple.

Many sled are capable of running much more.

I've had a pull & go sled with no box that walks on piped 1000's consistently. (haven't run into one without much more that compares)

Y, intake, head, can, oil delete. Still no controller, but if I DID run a controller (I would under 8500 feet, she gets hot at 9k), it would be very easy to program due to the pipe being stock & therefore no significant RPM increase, also, running lower RPM I personally feel works better for simple tuning.

You just have to be smart about it & be systematic in how you do the installs & how you test on first run if you don't want to run a controller. (oh... and not being a moron & running last years gas full bore would be good too...)

No m8 will be coming close without significant mods.

The M8 is great, but the potential of the simpler mods on the 1000 have been overlooked imo. A pipe isn't the be all end all & it creates a tuning situation that is harder for the average guy to set up.
I think you are saying you ride a m1000, not 100% sure. But if your saying you have all those mods and will walk on my m1000, I say you havent seen a well tuned piped m1000 as I have walked on many y-can setups. I know yours has a little extra and would love it if you came over and walked all over my sled, at least it would be something new.
This pipe thing isn't rocket science, you can buy the whole kit from slp and it is nearly a plug and play scenario, for around (i think) 12-1300 bucks. No finicky tuning or what ever, most of the time if you make changes they are minimal.

So I get the money thing, and if it works it works. But if your spending money on mods, some of you have to get what I'm saying, one of my biggest complaints is that so many think you can do a y-can with nothing else. some do and some lose big, not my way of thinking I like to be safe (not as in tuned down but reliable) and get what I can.
 
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K

Klimbing Kitty

Well-known member
Why not the full exhaust, my main question is, (or statement). Either do the full exhaust or get a m8.

You can get everything, exhaust, clutching, fuel controller pre programmed, from slp and it works. Should always get egts too.

Or if you bought one for a little more torque, ie for the big guys, just put on a can and its still reliable, and there is not a whole lot of difference.

The difference could be argued, but to get the potential out of it you have to reclutch, add fuel and should have egts. So if your going through the trouble why beitch out and not do the full pipe. scared or what.

I am kinda giving people chit, but this makes no sense in the real world, and many have no idea what they are missing.

I have also heard people say the stock pipe makes more power, I say prove it, because I have proven other wise.

Money has to be the only factor.... I would hope. To me buying a can and Y without a pipe is not worth it. I agree once you add the pipe you need a fuel box and some gauges so it is not as simple as buying the pipe....
The Y and the can will give you very little HP gains if any. You save a few pounds loosing the can which to me is the only bonus. Putting mods on a sled that still allows you to keep your warranty is just building a sled that that is all show and no go. I have to side with Wyoboy1000 on this one
 
H

HiWaYman92

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WYO, I don't know what your saying. At all. If you are calling my a liar, that's fine. I don't waste my time typing on here to buffalo people. I was a hard core M1000 fan. I loved my sled, and didn't know they got much better. In fact, I talked one of my buddies into buying one too. I was either going to start tweaking on it to get more, or get something new. I opted for my 10 M8, and really like it. My buddy still has his 1000 with a D and D Y, and a can. He weighs roughly 50 pounds less than me. His sled can't hang. I can't tell you if it is the worst set up 1000 in the world or not, but it runs just like mine did.

I rode with another guy with an 09 M1000 with the full SLP kit, and he weighed a bit more than me. On that day, his sled couldn't hang. Better than the other 1000 though.

My point is, if you don't have the knowledge/skills/ambition to tweak on it until its perfect, just get a stock 10-11 M8, and it will do just as good or better than an M1000 that is less than perfectly tuned.
 

Saddle sore

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None of my friends have a 10 M8 and as far as I can remember I have never ridden with some one with one. So I have never seen one spank a 1000. I did look at one at the dealership and as far as I can tell it looks like Cat put thier own Y-pipe on the M8 to make it a HO. And to do that they had to remap the fuel of course. To me it looks like Cat was studying the "after market" add ons and learned a few lessons. So it could be said that people buying fuel box's, y-pipes and cans are just trying to keep up with the manufacturer.

To WYO, What would you recommend for clutching with my set up. I understand Engine stuff really well but clutching is a little difficult for me.
 
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J

jakim

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I have been happy with the bone stock M1. I would like to do a full SLP setup on it but I lack the the know how to set it up. It is a new 09 with about 300 miles on it, for a few hundred more $ I could have bought a new 10 m8 but like the mid range power of the M1. I have no problem with the money part of it, just with the technical side of it.
 

WyoBoy1000

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what elevation?

We can help with the brains, but read up on anything you can find on m1000 mods, and then when you get info or the kit you will already understand it and it wont take much to help. Start with a slp can if you would like to do the full pipe, its a big weight loss and in the mean time you can learn what you need to, to be safe, but if you buy the whole kit: full exhaust and clutching with a programmed PC box (you don't need the v-force reeds) its pretty close to pull and go. Just need egts and lesson on how to check the egts and keep an eye on them to stay safe. I am sure you can find a dealer to help as well and will be your best bet for local support(i would think).
 
J

jakim

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i am 400 miles from the nearest dealer of any brand. I ride from 0- 6000 feet and cover that in about 2 hours. We do not have any trails here and it is all cross country up hill rideing with an average snow fall of over350 inches. I tried to read every post on here just to learn stuff.
 

WyoBoy1000

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Well when your ready let us know and we can help, I would recommend talking to Eric at racinstation, he is one of the leading PC fuel map builders and would know more about your altitude variation and what you need, he can most likely get you everything to make it a pull and go sled. Just make sure and get egts! otherwise its very hard to help, like trying to tune blind folded.
 

backcountryislife

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I think you are saying you ride a m1000, not 100% sure. But if your saying you have all those mods and will walk on my m1000, I say you havent seen a well tuned piped m1000 as I have walked on many y-can setups. I know yours has a little extra and would love it if you came over and walked all over my sled, at least it would be something new.
This pipe thing isn't rocket science, you can buy the whole kit from slp and it is nearly a plug and play scenario, for around (i think) 12-1300 bucks. No finicky tuning or what ever, most of the time if you make changes they are minimal.

One of these days we'll get to ride together... you're right in the state next door for god sake! (mine is a XF1000le 141 btw)
SOOOOO much of this is subjective. My sled could be making 20 less hp, but if the clutching is just right it could walk on another machine, and vice versa. All I'm saying is there are more mods that can be done to add power witohut increasing complexity, and when you stay within the original powerband intended by a stocker, it's just easier to tune.
This setup is nowhere near 1300 I dont' think. (170 for Y, 180 for intake, 400 for head, 18 for oil delete... can is a non factor weight aside.) I've had a number of tunes, full mod, Y & intake, stock, pipe... and this one has been very trouble free & simple to run.

Gotta say though... if you don't want to dick with ANYTHING... the new M8 kills it. And is closer to my sled than I'd like it to be!!! :D
 
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I do not want to be the *** of the bunch but in march I rode with a HOm8. Ipersonally ride an m1000 along with another guy. All weekend I listened to my 2010 m8 this my m8 that. Then on an open area point and shoot one with the m1000 gets stuck on the face. Guess what the rider with the 2010 m8 out to save the day but gets dug in way short of the m1000. second m1000 goes up to help the m8 out and in return goes up again to help second sled. So all the hype 800 vs 1000 I will go with displacement anyday. Saddlesore knows my sleds and will not argue at what my 1000 can do just ask. Just a simple rider from Clayton.
 
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