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2008 174” twisted turbo m1000

B
Jan 7, 2019
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2008 174” twisted turbo m1000

I have a 2008 174” twisted turbo m1000. Had a hard time getting this thing tuned in right last season. It would run good sometimes and not so good another time. Always seems to have a lot of turbo lag and wants to choke coming into boost. Once it’s boosted it runs great and your arms get longer! Wondering if the attitude box is the way to go or if I need to look into other boxes? If so where do I get parts it seems like m1000s were a thing of the past
 
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jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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Is your intake under the hood? With my M8 pump gas, which spools much easier than a turbo M1000, the same thing happened to me with intake under the hood. It would gulp hot air and would not recover...would just fall on its face and run super rich. At times, my intake temp due to underhood intake were close to 200 degrees. Once I ran a snorkel for a cold air intake, my sled ran perfect all day, every day. I chased my tune for a year for that reason. Now that I have the intake pulling fresh air, it doesn't happen anymore.
 
B
Jan 7, 2019
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Well it’s a cold air intake but probably not sealed the best. Has an elbow off the turbo going up into the headlights which are removed and have screens on them. Maybe I need to make a gromet that fits around the 90 degree elbow to make it sealed better.
 
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jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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The headlight is right above the pipe...can get hot. You can watch your intake temps too via controller (usually).
 
B
Jan 7, 2019
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Reeds are good. Replaced last season. What is a good cold air intake to get that will mount to my turbo? I’m assuming cutting a hole in the hood and coming up?
 
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Uncle Bob

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2011
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The more consistently you supply your motor with fresh cold air the more consistent your bottom end will be, Unfortunately the big twin had a trade off for the monster power on the top end by having to spin big weight through the bottom end on no boost, back in the day Shane would have the cylinders decked and then re dome the heads to try and lesson the lag, does your kit have this done to it, i know it helped mine, i also geared down to a 1-1 ration in the diamond drive, this also helped but of course you loose a little track speed on the top end. trim up your box a bit on the low end (Too long agoe, i cant remember the numbers) but i dont know if you can ever get these old beasts to be as quick revving as the new short block light crank little turbo 800's, one thing i had to keep reminding myself when lag would annoy me is to look back, even if the motor sounded boggy these monsters are still throwing snow out the back at the same rate or better then any stoker out there. Just my thoughts
 
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jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
635
113
Boise
Certainy don't disagree with Bob. All good advice. And I might be wrong.

But choking when coming into boost and never boosting from time to time is something I fought for over a year...tuned and adjusted clutching over and over...was never consistent. Ultimately, realized that my intake temps were off the charts when this would happen and my sled was gulping a bunch of hot air that put it into a super rich situation it would not boost past. The first day I had the cold air intake snorkel, I had much quicker boost and it ran consistent all day. Detonated less easily too. And I haven't had to touch my low end setting since. So, the inconsistent part is what made me think it could be due to heat in the intake. Again, I could be wrong, but sure sounded like my puzzling situation...sometimes ran great...other times, no dice. And I couldn't trust it. And I do still run a bit fat on the low end so my pistons get cooled down after long pulls...it could be cleaner...but the cold air intake allows me to be a bit fat there but still get quick spool up and consistent running...all day no matter the conditions.

Here is my sled with the snorkel. I ordered a foot long aluminum tube from amazon (HPS AST-300 6061 T6 Seamless Aluminum Round Straight Tubing, 16 Gauge, 1' Length, 3" OD, 0.065" Wall Thickness; $21.99). Check turbo inlet ID...not sure where you are at. I cut the hole in my hood so that this comes up right next to the windshield...doesn't catch on tress in tight spots. I do have to remove the top filter piece to open hood (I didn't want a large hole in hood). You can see on the tube where the hood line is. Won't clog in the deepest pow because the snow falls off the back half of it. You will also want to install a quality stainless screen before your turbo inlet as ANY external intake can produce ice that can go into the turbo veins.



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B
Jan 7, 2019
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All great advise! I’m going to try the cold air intake. I believe the cylinders are decked. Not 100% sure but it pulls over much harder than my stock m1. Makes me believe something is done??? And the plastic intake is deformed a little from the heat.... cannot figure out how to upload pic. The format is too big
 
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