Slight trenching

bobback · Feb 25, 2013

It seems like the back of my sled slightly trenches; when riding in the pow just seems like the back of the sled is not on top of the snow. Never noticed it until I rode a new polaris pro, and have always like the m8 as I went from an 08 sp with a 153 to an 11 sp 153.

Have messed with the suspension and have the 2.6 track on.

Thus wondering, is it time to face reality; this is just how it is w/ this chasis?

RobertTrivanovic · Feb 25, 2013

Yes you can face reality and realize that out of the factory yes, thats how the chassis is, but then you can realize that you dont have to live with it like that and you can do the GEO mod. Theres endless amounts of threads on this site to give you more details.

Frostbite · Feb 25, 2013

X2 on the GEO mod. It makes a M sled hang with the best of them.

bobback · Feb 25, 2013

Is this dropping the front suspension down? And if so by how much on a 2011?

Bowfisher · Feb 25, 2013

Geo mod link

Here's a link to a geo mod thread. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213616&highlight=Geo+mod

DAKOTAKIDD · Feb 26, 2013

I'll ask a question....If he is already running a 2.6" will he have enough clearance if he does the Geo Mod. I am going to be adding the 2.6 to mine as well and would like to know the answer. I pm'd Geo and he wasn't sure.. Has anyone successfully ran a 2.6 with his Mod?

Frostbite · Feb 26, 2013

I have run mine with the 2.6" Powerclaw and GEO mod all season. It works like a champ! I couln't dream of buying another sled right now it works so well. :face-icon-small-ton

bobback · Feb 26, 2013

Obviously looks easy enough and simple enough to put back to stock...thx

DAKOTAKIDD · Feb 26, 2013

Frostbite, what year is your M? Will it still work on my 08 with the 2.6?

bobback · Feb 26, 2013

I see from Elvis pic. that the holes on the bottom rail are 9/10 mm...yet in my further research he said that 10/10 works better.

Thus, for an 2011...do 10/10? Or does 1 mm really matter?

av8er · Feb 26, 2013

1mm isn't going to matter

heck u usually move the drill 1mm or so when drilling

Birdcage · Feb 26, 2013

I'm also interested in this topic for a 2010 M8 153. Drilled the 4-holes and did the mod, but found the Float to be too harsh. Changed out the Float for a coil-over off a 2011 M8 and threw a 2.5" CE on. Now I have found that I have clearance issues when using the "stock" upper hole or the relocation hole for the mod. The track rubs on the coolant tubes in the tunnel. I ran the sled in deep POW with the arms dropped in the lower holes (drilled hole in front and lower stock hole rear) and it seemed to perform fine, it just did not seem to want to jump-up on the snow. I have 5-threads showing on front arm spring, 2" sag on rear arm coil-over, and 2" sag on fronts. Do I need to modify track lugs for clearance to utilize the mod, or am I missing something?:juggle:

Thunder101 · Feb 26, 2013

I have found the front arm dropped to the low hole(the one you need to drill out) helps the sled pop up on top but it also makes the sled feel like it planes better when on the gas and Not when off the gas. I have not tried the rear mods just The Burrant revalve

Frostbite · Feb 26, 2013

My sled is an 09 M8.

I don't believe I have an issue but, I haven't done a complete under tunnel inspection but, I never heard or felt anything rubbing in the tunnel.

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Slight trenching

bobback

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RobertTrivanovic

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Frostbite

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bobback

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Bowfisher

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DAKOTAKIDD

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Frostbite

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bobback

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DAKOTAKIDD

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bobback

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av8er

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Birdcage

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Thunder101

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Frostbite

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