Has anyone tried running the slp pipe kit and T-Sled intake on 09 800. I know SLP says no fuel box at any elevation with their pipe and high flow intake, but what about with a timbersled intake? Any Help
SLP kit & t-sled intake
- Thread starter JFro50
- Start date
I know from talking to SLP that they did not have a fuel map for the BDX air intake with their pipe. They do have a fuel map for their SLP air intake and pipe setup. That suggests to me that you may be able to safely run the SLP single pipe with no fuel controller. However, once you add the additional airflow provided by an aftermarket intake adding a fuel controller is probably the prudent thing to do. You may get away without one for a while, then again, you may not. I know others have pulled it off, I'm not sure if the gamble is necessarily worth taking.
They just didn't test it is all they are saying, you may be alright and may not be, I know they also tested theres at 46psi of fuel pressure and some run as low as 42psi which has caused problems, so if your at 46-48psi it might be fine. It might be fine anyway, something you will just have to test. I rode with a guy that had that setup and it ran pretty good but I do not like there intake one bit and its over priced, get the bdx intake.
I already have a Timbersled intake and planning on buying a slp setup, just dont want to scrap the intake to buy slp one
If running low elevation I would be checking things, up high I think it should work but don't want to be the guy that said go for it and it has problems
If you have a aftermarket y -pipe you need a fuel box below 6000 feet
An after market air intake is necessary to let the SLP pipe set breathe properly, I tried running mine with a stock air box setup, and it was restricted, the SLP needs better than stock airflow, I ended up buying a SLP airbox only 455 on Ebay, but the timbersled should work o.k.
An after market air intake is necessary to let the SLP pipe set breathe properly, I tried running mine with a stock air box setup, and it was restricted, the SLP needs better than stock airflow, I ended up buying a SLP airbox only 455 on Ebay, but the timbersled should work o.k.
Thanks for input guys. Would egt's be a must on this setup? I might still get a fuel controller, but I have never used one or ridden with guys that have them, how hard are they to use?
No you don't need egt's, but for $300 they are good insurance
keep them under 1300, easy to use, glance at them once in a while, the koso turn to red when they reach they upper limit temp, that u set on them, my turbo would run 1350, even saw 1419 once was always afraid it would burn down, but never did, i was always worried about burn down ruined some of my fun.
keep them under 1300, easy to use, glance at them once in a while, the koso turn to red when they reach they upper limit temp, that u set on them, my turbo would run 1350, even saw 1419 once was always afraid it would burn down, but never did, i was always worried about burn down ruined some of my fun.
I had the BDX airbox and sold it after talking to SLP about using it with their pipe. You should call SLP before moving forward.
I agree with AV8ER, buy the SLP intake for $50 and then you can sell the Timbersled intake for $100. You may want to buy a PREPROGRAMED Power Commander from SLP (or used) that saves you the headache of dialing in the proper fuel flow. It comes preprogrammed and it's plug and play. Call SLP and they will e mail you the proper fuel map.
EGTs.... I have the KOSO gauges and I liek them but, I don't look anymore. I too saw 1365 or higher a few times and just knew I would be going home on the end of a rope. When I tore the engine down to have it ported, there was no damage at all. I was shocked. So, sometimes I wonder, what's the point of having them if you can go over 1400 without damage? It's the midrange where these sleds really get hot. I'd use the money you were going to use for a EGT to buy a preprogramed Power Commander III for $229.00 or a PC IV for $369 from SLP. Personnaly, I would buy the PC III and save $140.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=9&catID=85&productID=1383
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=2&catID=59&productID=1377
I agree with AV8ER, buy the SLP intake for $50 and then you can sell the Timbersled intake for $100. You may want to buy a PREPROGRAMED Power Commander from SLP (or used) that saves you the headache of dialing in the proper fuel flow. It comes preprogrammed and it's plug and play. Call SLP and they will e mail you the proper fuel map.
EGTs.... I have the KOSO gauges and I liek them but, I don't look anymore. I too saw 1365 or higher a few times and just knew I would be going home on the end of a rope. When I tore the engine down to have it ported, there was no damage at all. I was shocked. So, sometimes I wonder, what's the point of having them if you can go over 1400 without damage? It's the midrange where these sleds really get hot. I'd use the money you were going to use for a EGT to buy a preprogramed Power Commander III for $229.00 or a PC IV for $369 from SLP. Personnaly, I would buy the PC III and save $140.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=9&catID=85&productID=1383
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=2&catID=59&productID=1377
Hate to keep dragging this on but one more quick one. Does the slp intake work with all the stock air intake ducts removed? I have the hood gutted and all the moflow hood vents including center hood vent and dash vents. Thanks guys
P.S. Anyone want to buy a tsled intake
P.S. Anyone want to buy a tsled intake
Nevermind, I looked at slp air intake on their website and it looks like it wont work
M
You cant just put egt's on a sled and only look at the temps. Every motor is different and placement of the probes will change the readings drastically. You need to get your sled running good by reading plug color and piston wash, then you can monitor things by watching the gauge. The temp on the probe is not even close to the temp in the cylinder, if they were the same your pistons would have melted since alum melts at roughly 1200°.
Aluminum melts at 1300*
With that said the 800 gets away with a lot more than some others, you should check plugs and wash. I ran mine with egts stock and got some readings then when I put the pipe on I tuned it to get the same numbers and try to mimic the stock mapping. worked great.
I havent seen any difference between stock intakes and slp intakes unless there was tons of snow on the hood then the slp would draw hot air from under the hood a little better but as far as performance there was no improvement, in fact they ran so good with the stock intake no one around here bothers with them but I wanted to loose the weight with the bdx intake and put it on and tuned it in and I can honestly say there is more power, weather its from the 8lbs lost or more air I'm not sure but I wouldn't go back and never cared for the t-sled or slp intake.
Fuel controllers arent that hard to use, you just have to mess around a little bit and it starts to make sense.
With that said the 800 gets away with a lot more than some others, you should check plugs and wash. I ran mine with egts stock and got some readings then when I put the pipe on I tuned it to get the same numbers and try to mimic the stock mapping. worked great.
I havent seen any difference between stock intakes and slp intakes unless there was tons of snow on the hood then the slp would draw hot air from under the hood a little better but as far as performance there was no improvement, in fact they ran so good with the stock intake no one around here bothers with them but I wanted to loose the weight with the bdx intake and put it on and tuned it in and I can honestly say there is more power, weather its from the 8lbs lost or more air I'm not sure but I wouldn't go back and never cared for the t-sled or slp intake.
Fuel controllers arent that hard to use, you just have to mess around a little bit and it starts to make sense.
Ok, since your hood is already gutted you have a couple options.
1. Put the duct back on the hood and add the SLP intake but, this adds weight and I bet you aren't too excited about doing that.
2. Speak to Racinstation. I bet he has a fuel map for your setup. I would send him a PM. Or you could buy a boondocker (or other brand) fuel controller that has already been programed by someone for an application similar to yours.
3. You could buy a Power Commander V and also purchase the auto tune function to get you failry close to your fueling needs. Check out what this baby is capable of doing. It's awesome. How close it actually gets you remains to be seen.
1. Put the duct back on the hood and add the SLP intake but, this adds weight and I bet you aren't too excited about doing that.
2. Speak to Racinstation. I bet he has a fuel map for your setup. I would send him a PM. Or you could buy a boondocker (or other brand) fuel controller that has already been programed by someone for an application similar to yours.
3. You could buy a Power Commander V and also purchase the auto tune function to get you failry close to your fueling needs. Check out what this baby is capable of doing. It's awesome. How close it actually gets you remains to be seen.
Yeah i'm not putting the hood stuff back in, i actually think I threw it all away shortly after the sled came home from the dealer. Thanks for the input on everything, you guys are awesome
Even if you are persistent on running the t-sled intake do your self a favor and install the bdx venting for cold air. The sleds are mapped to use the stock airbox which for the most part pulls cold air, the last t-sled ones I had didn't really have a good place to pull air from other than under hood air. IMO they disrupt free airflow, the BDX is the closest to mimic stock air flow.
M
No, its actually 1220°.
Been running slp pipe and bdx intake for years on 07 m8. Rips. No fuel controller needed unless ur a flatlander.
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