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RK Tek '09 Clutch Kit install help.

A
Apr 30, 2008
65
2
8
Anchorage, AK
I'm running into a few problems installing my kit. I don't have all the rollers in yet, but I've run into some questions...

First, are the billet pieces trhat you install in place of the reverse rollers supposed to pivot 180*? Mine get stuck at horizontal.

IMG_0636.jpg


Due to this, my helix won't upshift at all. It binds on the aluminium pieces...

IMG_0632.jpg


Any help is appreciated. It's probably something simple, as I've been up for 24 hours now...
 

Tempest

Active member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
247
36
28
Twin Falls, Idaho
Hmm, That is an interesting looking setup. I've got RKT clutches on two of my other sleds and they work great. I would like to know more about the 09 setup as well, before I buy one.
 
A

alexhack

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2008
471
53
28
Red Deer, Alberta
Looking at the pic the billet peice should not be sideways it should point down. Looks like it is designed to hook the knotch for reverse so it doesn't ramp up under throttle. Give that a try.
 
G

Going West

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2007
1,212
643
113
Canada
In the supplementary instructions i says to mount the billet pieces with the hook facing the ramp and in your pics it looks as thought it might be upside down
 
Last edited:

iahegdal

Member
Premium Member
Dec 5, 2007
95
6
8
AlaskaS3,

When you get this figured out I would like to see pictures, hope you'll post the results.
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
2,170
2,336
113
68
Kamloops B.C.
If you have a older kit and wish to install it on the '09 it can be done with some simple mods.

You need a reverse notch helix of the old style and a bit of easy machineing of the billet piece that locates the spring at the roller end.
First you need to mill the pin slot in reverse direction enough to allow the backshift roller to touch the reverse notch without untwisting the spring. Then you need to machine the i.d. of that piece to install a bushing ( same one that is in the end cap of the kit or stock helix). Then under that piece (before you install the piece) you need to put in a plastic washer (a perfect washer is one from a Doo early RER clutch, part #P417126322). The last 2 steps are to allow the piece to rotate easily as the spring twist puts some binding onto this piece.
It's tried and tested and as smooth as butter.

While I was playing with the secondary, I found the helix's (AC and after market) are machined slightly off. There is metal to metal contact before the backshift roller engages the reverse notch (this is the clunking many have heard).
Reassemble the clutch without the spring and rotate it into reverse. You will see where to grind, file, or machine the helix (and shorten 3 screws) to get rid of it. Gets rid of the clunk in both directions. I actually had bending on the helix mounting screws till I fixed it.

Don't get all uptight, ' cause of casting differences and belt widths some may be okay but some might be worse. I haven't looked at many, but the ones I have, have been hitting.

The '09 800 is the best M sled yet. From suspention to the engine management, It's all I could ask for ( but I'll still try to make it a bit better LOL).


Geo
 
A
Apr 30, 2008
65
2
8
Anchorage, AK
Yep, they were definately in there wrong. It makes way more sense this way too. Good thing I just stopped and took a nap. Thanks for the help guys!

Pieces in correctly:
IMG_0637.jpg


The reverse notch in the helix:
IMG_0639.jpg


Viola!:
IMG_0638.jpg
 

RickM

Well-known member
Premium Member
May 25, 2006
542
242
43
Central Wyoming
clutching upgrade

Alaskas3
How about giving us an update on your clutching upgrade after you get a chance to try it out, interested in the up shift and back shift, and also how the reverse lock works. thanks
 

RickM

Well-known member
Premium Member
May 25, 2006
542
242
43
Central Wyoming
Update on your Clutching

AlaskaS3
How about giving us an update on your clutching upgrade after you get a chance to try it out, interested in the up shift and back shift, and also how the reverse lock works. thanks
 
A
Apr 30, 2008
65
2
8
Anchorage, AK
The first day, it ran horrible. The metal "reverse" pieces were digging into the helix HARD (hard enough to make burrs and scar the hell out of it.) I pulled everything apart, and assembled things a bit differently. The instructions say to put the spring in the "left" hole in the cover, then install. I may have read them wrong, or interpreted them wrong, but if you put the spring in the left most hole you are forced to unwind the spring while making your adjustments (turning the cover counter clockwise.) I installed the spring in the right hole, then my adjustments "wound up" the spring instead. I think this unwinding action the first time, was causing the helix to ride in the reverse ramps on backshift.

After fixing this, the sled ran awesome. No complaints at all. When I'm going forward that is. Reverse still fails to work properly, and I'm looking into it.

I'm running a yellow/white and 77 gram weights in my primary, and snopro green, and a 36 in my secondary. Worked great from sea level to 5000'. Was running 7600 rpm at 2000', and 7500rpm @ 5000'.
 
A
Apr 30, 2008
65
2
8
Anchorage, AK
Looking at it some more...

When you adjust the belt deflection to where it's supposed to be, the helix is in too far to allow the hooks to catch the helix when it goes into reverse. I'll either need to shim the helix up (RickM already suggested this,) or machine the helix so it will catch the hooks.
 
A
Apr 30, 2008
65
2
8
Anchorage, AK
I ended up shimming the helix using a total of three of the washers that are already under the stock helix. (Approx 2.5" in diameter, 9 bolt holes...) Going riding tomorrow, will report more.

I'm a little concerned about the clutch shifting out too far now, and the belt hitting the helix. The reverse works fine now, but I've only tried it in the garage.
 
S

SledderX

Well-known member
Sep 20, 2008
247
48
28
Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
I thought this kit was supposed to be first thing to do with a sled with a diamond drive. Just install and ride no trouble and work awesome. No modifications needed. That is ridiculous all the trouble your having I have one on the way sure hope I dont need to do that much messing around. anybody else do an install on an 09? how was the install and how well does it work?
 
C
Nov 9, 2005
349
90
28
Montana
The first day, it ran horrible. The metal "reverse" pieces were digging into the helix HARD (hard enough to make burrs and scar the hell out of it.) I pulled everything apart, and assembled things a bit differently. The instructions say to put the spring in the "left" hole in the cover, then install. I may have read them wrong, or interpreted them wrong, but if you put the spring in the left most hole you are forced to unwind the spring while making your adjustments (turning the cover counter clockwise.) I installed the spring in the right hole, then my adjustments "wound up" the spring instead. I think this unwinding action the first time, was causing the helix to ride in the reverse ramps on backshift.

After fixing this, the sled ran awesome. No complaints at all. When I'm going forward that is. Reverse still fails to work properly, and I'm looking into it.

I'm running a yellow/white and 77 gram weights in my primary, and snopro green, and a 36 in my secondary. Worked great from sea level to 5000'. Was running 7600 rpm at 2000', and 7500rpm @ 5000'.


Alaska, I may be misunderstanding what you're saying regarding the direction you are turning the cover plate. The cover is turned clockwise, not counter clockwise, to provide preload for the spring. By moving the spring hole further to the left, in effect moves the cover closer to the four studs whereby lessoning spring preload (faster upshift, slower backshift) Moving the spring further to the right moves the cover holes further away from the studs, forcing you to move the cover further to the right to line up with the studs, increasing spring preload (slower upshift with faster backshift).

I have the 08 version on my 08 M-1000. I don't think the 09 is different said for the quick adjust and provision for reverse. If I misunderstood you, please accept my apology. Just would hate to see you have any unnecessary problems. :beer;:beer;
 
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A
Apr 30, 2008
65
2
8
Anchorage, AK
Exactly. I wasn't paying attention the first time I put it together. By the time I had the cover mounted with the bolts in the center of the throws, the spring was unwound so far that the helix wasn't even resting on the rollers. It's been 10 years since I've been riding and I wasn't paying attention. Since addressing this, it ran awesome. This thing is FAST now.
 

RickM

Well-known member
Premium Member
May 25, 2006
542
242
43
Central Wyoming
good fix

AlaskaS3, well after working out the bugs, are you happy with the helix now?
Are you getting full shift out and good back shifts now? How about setting your deflection and still having the helix lock in reverse? I thought by adding the shims it would work fine for you. Please comment on all the questions above so every one will know the fix. Thanks RickM
 

RickM

Well-known member
Premium Member
May 25, 2006
542
242
43
Central Wyoming
Good Fix

AlaskaS3, well after working out the bugs, are you happy with the helix now?
Are you getting full shift out and good back shifts now? How about setting your deflection and still having the helix lock in reverse? I thought by adding the shims it would work fine for you. Please comment on all the questions above so every one will know the fix. Thanks RickM
 
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