09 Clutch issues? New to XP clutch setup!!

Summit8 · Feb 26, 2011

Was up riding in the Big Horns this week, snow was setup base with 8" fresh. Were doing some climbing on hillsides and tree riding. Second ride on XP, 154", 350 miles on it. Clicker at 4-5 to hold 8-8100 rpm. Am going to check if stock screws are in pins and pull them if they are.
Looked at belt after first day and changed it out, side panel was full of chewed up side cord and had gap between top cog and drive surface. Second day broke new 377 belt in and is fine after another day but sled is making a tinny sounding vibration at end of day, am thinking dirty primary after spitting cord out of belt, haven't got chance to look for loose bolts yet, to cold out.
Any other suggestions? Sled still ran fine and pulled good, just making a lot of racket at slow speed. Am planning a clutch kit in future but prolly not till end of next month or so.
Any ideas/ help are appreciated. Thanx!:face-icon-small-hap

caper11 · Feb 26, 2011

Summit8 said:
Was up riding in the Big Horns this week, snow was setup base with 8" fresh. Were doing some climbing on hillsides and tree riding. Second ride on XP, 154", 350 miles on it. Clicker at 4-5 to hold 8-8100 rpm. Am going to check if stock screws are in pins and pull them if they are.
Looked at belt after first day and changed it out, side panel was full of chewed up side cord and had gap between top cog and drive surface. Second day broke new 377 belt in and is fine after another day but sled is making a tinny sounding vibration at end of day, am thinking dirty primary after spitting cord out of belt, haven't got chance to look for loose bolts yet, to cold out.
Any other suggestions? Sled still ran fine and pulled good, just making a lot of racket at slow speed. Am planning a clutch kit in future but prolly not till end of next month or so.
Any ideas/ help are appreciated. Thanx!:face-icon-small-hap

I'm running a roosterbuilt clutch kit in my 09 and am very happy with it.

Xrider · Feb 26, 2011

Mine had trouble holding rpms on first ride. Sometimes it would ,sometimes not, would drop to 7500 in the middle of a climb, like losing 30 hp. So I installed a DJ kit before next ride, all is well, original belt and hardly even any belt dust after a ride. I do blow out primary with compressed air after each ride. It's probably better to get r's on clicker 3 if that's where you ride most of the time, gives a little more range of adjustment.

Summit8 · Mar 8, 2011

Thanx for the replies guys, got a clutch holder last week, gonna tear into clutch and see if stock set screws are still in pins and pull them.
Have Xtreme Air Vents front skid shock relocate kit to install, then go for ride this weekend.
Am gonna go with clutch kit soon, RoosterBilt I'm thinking, read alot of good about DJ setup as well.

Xrider · Mar 8, 2011

FYI, your old clutch holder works too.

wjl · Mar 8, 2011

Clean the primary often (depends on the amout of belt dust and other nasties) about every 400 to 500 miles. Also check the rollers on the arms the stock ones like to flat spot.
Keeping it clean seems to be the key dawn dish soap, hot water and a tooth brush.

Links: http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=405155&hl=clutch cleaning&st=0
hitorquerollers.com
DJ clutches http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/article/welcome-to-the-revzone-1.asp

The last one: ends all problems with belts http://floatingqrs.com/

mtnjunkie · Mar 8, 2011

Maybe out of alignment. Mine was, it was eating the belt. I had the rear pto motor mount torn also, that really let the motor move and ate the belt. Fixed the mount but clutches were still out of alignment. I got my secondary floated by Doodoctor and have put on maybe 500 miles with NO belt wear. It looks the same as it did then, and it runs cooler, shifts smoother. Doodoctor does an amazing job and it really WORKS!

evaldave · Mar 9, 2011

Check your clutch alignment then doo yourself another favor and go with the ROOSTERBUILT clutches. They truly rock!! I have not had to mess with mine since install. I have about 700 miles on it this season.

revrider07 · Mar 9, 2011

I was in the horns last week the snow was way better the further south you went. I am running a rooster built clutch kit on 09 163 xp great product solid rpms everyday. :face-icon-small-coo

Dynamo^Joe · Mar 9, 2011

Summit8 said:
Looked at belt after first day and changed it out, side panel was full of chewed up side cord and had gap between top cog and drive surface. Second day broke new 377 belt in and is fine after another day but sled is making a tinny sounding vibration at end of day, am thinking dirty primary after spitting cord out of belt, haven't got chance to look for loose bolts yet, to cold out.
Any other suggestions? Sled still ran fine and pulled good, just making a lot of racket at slow speed. Am planning a clutch kit in future but prolly not till end of next month or so.
Any ideas/ help are appreciated. Thanx!:face-icon-small-hap

Sometimes the guide pops out of the belt guard and that will cause it to rattle a bit.
The 377 has a temp limit of 210 degrees then the rubber will be hot enough that strength loss it will release a chord. You can run the 377 up to 200 deg for some time but try to keep it below that.

If you have been getting decent temperatures and still having chord pop out then the first line of defense is to check alignment or get the dealer to check the alignment for you (hopefully warranty if that's a new sold sled)
If temps are good and chord popping out there is an alignment issue whether static or at full throttle.

Summit8 · Mar 9, 2011

Thanx for the replies DJ and everyone else. Took the clutch apart and cleaned it, was pretty dirty and rollers and arms were starting to get a little sticky, the rattling noise seems to have disappeared, looked the motor over real good and pryed on the mounts, everything looks ok for now. Yeah DJ, I was thinking that tinny belt guard might have been the culprit.
Clutch was getting a little warm when I checked a few times, tried to give it a little cool down from time to time, needed a spare belt so I'm gonna keep my 377 as spare and try an Ultimax, had very good results with that belt on my 02.

Dynamo^Joe · Mar 10, 2011

Take note that the ultimax belts are softer compound than the 377 belt but don't take this as a bad thing, not at all. You may be in for a little recalibration.

Example; with my clutch kits say a sledder is running 16g in clicker 4 using a 377. Changing over to a carlisle belt and after breakin about 1/2 tank of fuel, the full throttle rpms are about 200 lower.
The owner reduces one gram flyweight to achieve the 8200 rpms again, or
The owner changes the clicker up to 5.

Another calibration change we've done is to leave everything alone except raise the primary spring final force by 30 lbs, an example going from a xxx/320 to a xxx/350.

The softer belt has more belt clamp in the sheaves.
The downside to softer belts is the death sentence for failure temperature is lower.
Try to keep that belt temperature below 190 as the rubber gets soft enough that it just can't hold on to the chord anymore, the rubber will release it.

If you are looking for a belt with the highest temperature limit, the dayco xtreme for the xp summit = 230 degrees

happy highmarking
joey

Summit8 · Mar 13, 2011

Thanks for the info DJ. I sure thought the Carlisle XS821 belt was harder compound than the 377, it sure feels like it.
I had bad luck with it late on Saturday, second day on the belt, found some good powder and all of a sudden vibration coming from clutch side, open guard, new XS821 belt has about a 3-4" chunk missing out of the top of the belts top cog area, is half way across width of belt and a wad of cord hanging out the side of the belt, rest of belt was fine, looked new yet and not really any other sign of wear, belt dust, put my 4 day old 377 back on and didn't push it till we rode in for the day. The vibration is back and the bars have alot of vibration in them running down the trail, should have dropped it off at dealer in Sheridan,WY but brought it back home to check alignment after I get an alignment bar. Might take it to a shop 35 mi. from here that still works on Doo but lost their dealership because of requirment issues of BRP. not sure but possibly sales quotas, owning own building or something like that.
Guess alignment is first thing to check, gearing down should probably be done also, 20t top sprocket? 19/45 stock for the 154 X ?
This sled ran so smooth the first few times I rode it, now its back to noise and vibration,eating belts. I thought the 09's had some of this sorted out!!
Need to go the clutch kit route but have to wait to drop the $350 or so till next month.
Any more input would be appreciated, am hoping crank isn't the issue.When I installed Xtreme Air Vents front skid shock kit last Tues, ran the sled with track off ground and belt seemed to have a lot of vibration when running it, was not smooth, don't know if this means anything or not. Motor mounts were tight at this time.
Thanx in advance-Jay

PS-Front skid shock relocate worked great, put sway bar connectors back on, sled lays over, sidehills, rides great!! Thanks XtremeAir Vents.

Red-eye · Mar 13, 2011

Alignment is the key to keeping the belts alive.

Summit8 · Mar 13, 2011

Yeah, that's were I guess I'm looking first. Gotta get an alignment bar, don't like having to run to a dealer all the time, specially when nearest one is 2-3 hundred miles away.
Then again might be easier than trying to adjust motor position in XP chassis!:face-icon-small-dis
Thanx 4 reply Redeye

Red-eye · Mar 13, 2011

use a 3/8 square stock bar in the back sheave. measure your x and y measurement ( to keep them equal) alittle more on the front measurement, for torque of engine. Then push your engine towards the muffler side until the belt is not riding on the inner sheave. Recheck x and y and your done. might have to slot the left rear engine mount to do this. my ring gear hit the torque mount behind the clutch so I die ground it off a little. haven't blown a belt since.

Summit8 · Mar 13, 2011

I'll have to look at my Doo alignment bar for my 02 Summit to remember the X-Y referance points, don't remember off hand. Does a go-no go alinment tool (laser cut that drops over the clutch sheaves) work and does anyone even make one?

o2bncamo · Mar 14, 2011

Hey Jay, I recognize the sled. Lee from WI, saw you at Elk in the Bighorns between x-mas and New Year. I had the Impulse Nytro.

I told you the clutches need I little work. To ansewer your question, the alignment tool doesn't work very well because of the way the secondary sits in top of the primary. Take a piece of 3/8 stock about 20" in or just use your swaybar. Measure from back of primary to bar, Doo spec says 38mm But 40 works better. The x-y is the top of the primary measurement compared to the bottom of the primary measurement. This should be about 1mm. The z is the distance between the cluthchs 21mm is spec and works well. If you do a search i'm sure someone has posted a pic. of the process. I know on Doo Talk that they have many times. (common issue)

Good Luck

Summit8 · Mar 15, 2011

Hey Lee, how are you? Thanks for the heads up on the alignment, will doo a little looking and see what I find. Did take sled to shop over here and they are going to look at it today. They're working through another dealer so they can do warranty work, they're building a new shop and hoping to get their BRP dealership back, I'm hoping that happens too.
Well thanks again for the explanation and you take care, look me up if you get back up to this neck of the woods again, am hoping to get to Cooke next month at least once.
Laterz-Jay

o2bncamo · Mar 15, 2011

Sounds good Jay, I'm heading to togwotee next week, than a week in the Snowys. Should get my fill snowmobiling. Let me know when you head to Cooke. I usually that one trip in april if I don't get to busy.

09 Clutch issues? New to XP clutch setup!!

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