02 800 rmk blowin' belts, HELP!!

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nap96

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Jan 28, 2008

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• Mar 7, 2009

• #1

I have an 02 rmk 800 that keeps shredding belts. Only engine mods are CPI exhaust and v-force reeds, so its not from excessive HP, they are polaris belts, I clean them with warm soapy water b-4 use, engine has torque arms(Ran with hood off and engine does not move at all) Checked alignment with the correct tool for Team secondary, motor mounts are all OK. It always blows when i hold around half throttle for a while, like when going down a trail. It has a new primary clutch i bought from tracks USA(or so they say its new) new weights and bushings, no nicks or scratches on sheave surfaces, primary and secondary. Somebody please give me an answer to my problem, I cant trust my sled any further than i can push it anymore!

 

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theultrarider

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Nov 26, 2007

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Soldotna Alaska

• Mar 7, 2009

• #2

Are you POSITIVE that you do not have a broken left front motor mount. Sure sounds like it. Get a long pry bar under that corner and lift up hard. It takes alot to move your motor even with a broken mount. Good luck.

 

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nap96

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• Mar 7, 2009

• #3

That was the first thing I did, when pryed, it did move a bit, but no more than my buds rmk(checked his to see if they moved the same) I have had sled with broken mounts b-4 and i know how much a motor moves, this one just doesn't seem to move enough to be a problem.

 

Last edited: Mar 7, 2009

rmkboxer

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Bonney lake WA

• Mar 7, 2009

• #4

what is your gearing and I would think that if your motor mts and stuff are ok that your clutching is off

 

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isu49

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Jan 11, 2008

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Manson, WA

• Mar 7, 2009

• #5

Clutch alignment and center to center distance is almost always the culprit in these situations. I would make sure that your clutch alignment is EXACT, and that your CTC is real close. No time should be spared in making sure these two things are dialed in. Good luck.

 

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SD Coyote

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Dec 27, 2007

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Aberdeen, SD

• Mar 8, 2009

• #6

A continuous belt destruction is caused from excessive heating of the clutches. All of the above replies are right and are causes for the heat. If mounts are good, gearing not too tall, and clutches are functioning properly, I would question the alignment tool. Some of these tools are not very accurate from the manufacturer or were damaged.

 

winter brew

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LakeTapps, Wa.

• Mar 8, 2009

• #7

What is your clutch setup? Gearing? Track length? Altitude?

 

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nap96

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• Mar 8, 2009

• #8

My gears are 19/41, 159x2 track, CTC is adjustable to the belt length w/the team clutch, the alignment tool was brand new, when it was on the clutches, I had about 1/8-3/16 gap on the backside of secondary, which I was told is correct to allow for slight engine torque(correct me if I'm wrong). The belts have always blown at around 1200' in Iowa, never had any probs at 10-12k'.
1200' setup is almond spring w/red line, 68 weights
10k-12k same spring, 64 weights, I have never changed anything in the secondary, I have had this sled since this spring, previous owner said he changed the original(red) spring in the secondary and installed a stiffer one(not sure of his reason). I am by no means a clutching expert and have no idea what springs to run. Also, could the black residue from the blown belts rubbing on the sheave surfaces cause my new belts to desintagrate? I was too pi$$ed off when they started destroying everything under my hood to clean them properly, I did make sure I had all the cords pulled from everwhere so they didn't catch on the new belt. I think the almond spring in the primary is way more stiff than previous sleds, could this in combonation w/the stiffer secondary spring be too much for the belt to spread the sheaves? Thanks, Nick

 

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theultrarider

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Soldotna Alaska

• Mar 8, 2009

• #9

I run the almond/red in my 2 800's and a 700 with no belt problems. I don't know what kind of aligment bar you are using, but you may want to try a different one. There a currently atleast 3 different alignment bars out there, one for the button clutches, One for the team 98's and one for the team lightweight 04's. They are all different specs. Need to make sure you have the the correct bar for the clutch you are running. Sounds like that is your problem.

 

winter brew

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LakeTapps, Wa.

• Mar 8, 2009

• #10

Make sure you have the alignment bar for the Team secondary, not the button...they are different.
And yes, the belt residue will make a difference. I would start by cleaning the clutches with scotchbrite, making sure the alignment is correct and starting with a new belt. For the alignment, throw the alignment bar on the shelf and use your eyeball.....the belt should just kiss the inner sheave of the primary with all belt/sheave clearance being on the outside of the belt at the base of the primary. IMo this is the best alignment method there is and it works for ANY clutch combination on ANY sled.

 

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nap96

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Jan 28, 2008

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• Mar 8, 2009

• #11

I'm positive I have the correct bar, It has a sticker on it that says for team clutch setup, and it has been used on other machines without probs. Knowing others run the same springs without probs on stock belts eliminates that. I know I need to clean the surfaces of clutches for sure, guess I'll have keep buyin belts until I figure it out, prob end up pullin motor and putin in new mounts just because that is almost always the reason for belt failure, even tho I THINK they are ok, 4 mounts are cheaper than one belt! Thanks for all your help everybody!

 

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markis24

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Mar 30, 2008

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Northwest WA

• Mar 8, 2009

• #12

Make sure the team secondary is floating, maybe look at your crankshaft runout. Also determine if your alignment bar has calculation for load/twist built into it like the factory polaris one.

 

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TEC800

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Mar 3, 2008

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burnsville mn

• Mar 8, 2009

• #13

do you have the old team secondary on, if so they had a problem binding so they wouldn't open all the way which would create heat and stretch the belt causing them to come apart bad. try the derlin (delrin)? washers to keep it from binding. had same sled, close to same set up and same problem

 

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nap96

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• Mar 9, 2009

• #14

The secondary is floating 1/4", I dont THINK the bar has torque alignment built in, it is an after market one, havn't checked runout on primary yet(though of that last night). My secondary is the old team style, where do I get the delrin washers? When running w/hood of I thought the secondary wasn't opening properly, might explain why it always does it at certain constant speed and rpm. Excellent info guys! I've got some things to check!:beer; Then maybe I can finally ride!