Carls clutching

pj8556 · Jan 3, 2018

have a few rides with Carl's setup on my '16 axys rmk 2.6 w/ slp stage 2.
Not working for me, especially not worth the $$
Wont pull proper rpms 8100 tops, needs to be 8300-8400 and all kinds of belt/clutch heat.
Clutches have all been gone through, cleaned. alignment checked, torque arm added, vents added.
Very unimpressed.

dktraw · Jan 3, 2018

What kind of rpm were you seeing when it was stock?

ullose272 · Jan 3, 2018

pj8556 said:
have a few rides with Carl's setup on my '16 axys rmk 2.6 w/ slp stage 2.
Not worth a damn, especially not worth the $$
Wont pull proper rpms 8100-8200 tops, needs to be 8300-8400 and all kinds of belt/clutch heat.
Very unimpressed. Dont have any clue why people tout this setup. miffed

all I have is their helix and used proper weights for elevation and mine works like a champ.

dktraw · Jan 3, 2018

ullose272 said:
all I have is their helix and used proper weights for elevation and mine works like a champ.

What exactly does "work like a champ" mean? Does it hold above 8300 in all snow conditions, good track speed, low clutch temps etc? Ive had multiple carls setups on previous models and they worked great. But so far on my 2 16 axys 155s and now my 17 axys 155 they seemed to have missed the mark. None of mine have ever pulled over 8200 on any given day.

pj8556 · Jan 4, 2018

was pulling proper rpms 8300-8400 rpms with slp clutching, just had a lot of heat.
Now after adding carls clutching (along with vents, torque arm and clutch alignment, added sec float) I still have the heat in a big way, and only 8100-8200 rpms and less track speed.

Wheel House Motorsports · Jan 4, 2018

Hit up indy dan. I ran carls secondary setup on my stock 18 axys and it worked OK but still TONS of heat just like stock.

Swapped to Indy dans setup running WAY lighter springs, much shallower helix and viola... WAY less clutch heat and much harder shift out all the way through the speed range. Went from getting clutches boiling hot in literally minutes after a full cool down to now I can hold it WOT for a long time in mega deep snow and barely get hot enough you cant put your hands on it. Definitely the best clutching I have ran to date on any of my Axys sleds.. The axys works so dang good you can ride it that much harder and make that much more heat so it really shows how your clutching works.

ullose272 · Jan 4, 2018

I used to hold 8300-8500 all day every day, I guess I don't really nitpick how hot it gets, but my stock belt had 800 miles on it, and only replaced it because I wanted a spare. I think my motor mounts are worn causing lower rpms now. fwiw I also am running pro rmk quick drive pulleys. so that might be part of the difference.

AdrenalineAddict · Jan 4, 2018

The lower gears might require that you run lighter weights and a couple degree shallower helix. Every sled I've ever geared down upshifted quicker and ran less RPM's because of the secondary sensing less torque and not backshifting enough. Same reason a 250 pound guy can run 10-62's and a 145 pounder needs 10-60's.

Wheel House Motorsports · Jan 4, 2018

ullose272 said:
I used to hold 8300-8500 all day every day, I guess I don't really nitpick how hot it gets, but my stock belt had 800 miles on it, and only replaced it because I wanted a spare. I think my motor mounts are worn causing lower rpms now. fwiw I also am running pro rmk quick drive pulleys. so that might be part of the difference.

definately check motor mounts and replace clutch springs, after 1000 miles they are generally not doing you any favors and stack up to lost RPM.

ak · Jan 5, 2018

Have you tried both angles of the helix?

dktraw · Jan 5, 2018

Everyone says you will need lighter weights with the gear down but i have never seen that.....makes the sled more responsive, rpm stay more consistent, and usually ive picked up some track speed and peak Rs went up 50-100.....with zero clutch setup change

Timbre · Jan 5, 2018

pj8556 said:
have a few rides with Carl's setup on my '16 axys rmk 2.6 w/ slp stage 2.
Not worth a damn, especially not worth the $$
Wont pull proper rpms 8100-8200 tops, needs to be 8300-8400 and all kinds of belt/clutch heat.
Very unimpressed. Dont have any clue why people tout this setup. miffed

Did you try calling them before getting on here to make this post? Their customer service is top notch, and i am sure this can be figured out if you discuss it with them.

Teth-Air · Jan 5, 2018

dktraw said:
Everyone says you will need lighter weights with the gear down but i have never seen that.....makes the sled more responsive, rpm stay more consistent, and usually ive picked up some track speed and peak Rs went up 50-100.....with zero clutch setup change

Keep in mind that the speed sensor is on the brake disc so don't get fooled that you are always picking up track speed as the speedo will read much higher speeds after gearing down.

dktraw · Jan 5, 2018

yep, I was accounting for the speedo change. usually my avg track speed before gears was 37-38, after putting the gears on my speedo would indicate 44-45. so I was guessing actual track speed should have been around 41-43ish so still an improvement

pj8556 · Jan 5, 2018

yes I've called them, they've tried to help but had no answers.
I'm geared down, motor mounts are new, springs are all new, torque arm and venting added. I think its too much helix and/or weight to pull proper rpms. The heat is a problem, its inconsistent, ineffecient and hard on $200 belts. A kit costing this much $$ sold by a trusting source oughta produce better results IMO

I've done everything Carls said they would've done.

dktraw · Jan 5, 2018

the clutch kit they sell you for the axys is the same kit theve been selling for the pro. nothing changed in there kit. they also sell you the same kit whether your putting a stage 2, 3, or 4 engine kit on your motor except they just up the weights. and from a stage 2 kit to a stage 3 kit they even give you the same weights. seems like that broad of clutch kit sold for that many applications is never going to work great in any given application? it will probably work "OK" across the board and that's why they sell it. then when people have problems with sleds not reaching rpm, carls cant really fine tune the clutching because they have a one size fits all clutch kit. just my .02 cents from my experiences with them over the years

kiliki · Jan 5, 2018

dktraw said:
the clutch kit they sell you for the axys is the same kit theve been selling for the pro. nothing changed in there kit. they also sell you the same kit whether your putting a stage 2, 3, or 4 engine kit on your motor except they just up the weights. and from a stage 2 kit to a stage 3 kit they even give you the same weights. seems like that broad of clutch kit sold for that many applications is never going to work great in any given application? it will probably work "OK" across the board and that's why they sell it. then when people have problems with sleds not reaching rpm, carls cant really fine tune the clutching because they have a one size fits all clutch kit. just my .02 cents from my experiences with them over the years

or maybe the stage kits don't put out enough power difference to make the need to produce a separate kit. BTW not defending Carls in any way.

dktraw · Jan 5, 2018

then why sell the stage kits at all then?? if they sell you the same clutching for a stock sled as they do with a stage 3 kit but only 2 grams heavier weights because it doesn't put out enough power difference, then why would they brag about how strong there stage kits are? I like Carls a lot, and they sell some great products ( LOVE there shock upgrades) but there clutching for the axys just seems off?? just really wish they would offer different setups, so they could help a guy dial in his clutching. instead of saying, "well this kit works in other sleds so don't know what your problem is".

snobyrd · Jan 5, 2018

Carls clutch is a pure waste of money, i tried a kit on my stock pro in 13, it lasted 2 rides before i removed it. I blew a belt right away, track speed was low, lots of heat so i took it out and its been sitting on my slelf ever since.
I also tried the the other clutch kit put out by the guys in alaska and that one was also a waste of money.
Iv gone full circle and ive found that stock with slp 71 g weights the best combo for good trax speed and backshift.

AdrenalineAddict · Jan 5, 2018

The main reason Polaris engineering went a couple grams heavier with their 10 series weights and decided to run a shallower helix than the pro is that the axys motor spools up so quickly they were getting belt slip on instant acceleration. The 10 series weights throw very hard off the bottom and the straight 40 gives you far more belt squeeze. I have some friends running carls and overall they work fantastic, but we do a lot of straight line hillclimbing. I have a feeling if they were in and out of the throttle all day as in tree riding, the carls set-up would slip and heat. I've inspected the carls set-up clutches a few times and there is most always a black slip streak on the lower third of the primary which is exactly what Polaris was trying to solve.

Carls clutching

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