I've installed a new spring in my secondary clutch and am having an issue with getting the clutch shaft reinstalled in the chassis. I can't get the bearing to slide all the way into the bearing housing. The top sprocket in the chaincase is started on the shaft splines, but I just can't get the shaft slide the last half inch. I tapped on the shaft with a rubber mallet, but it won't go any further. Any suggestions? Thanks
Need Help with QRS Re-install Problem
- Thread starter NoSoup4U
- Start date
Got it installed. The top half of the support housing had a very sharp edge that I removed with emery paper. I then heated the support housing with a heat gun. Then tighten the bolt in the chain case to "press" the bearing into the support housing.
Bad Advice
Been told NOT to do it but if I'm in a hurry & you have your top gear lined up on the splines. I have a big fender washer that I use and take the bolt and carefully tighten it up. Get it a little tight tap on the clutch so on & so 4th. It's not good advice for some people if your not there to help. Don't try and ram er home & strip your jack shaft out. Make sure you gear is on the splines & straight. When in doubt DO AS THE PROS DO AND SAY NOT WHAT I DO OR SAY. This works for me but as with a lot of things in the snowmobile world takes some finesse and just becaus it works doesn't mean it's the best practice. When you need to change a gear or spring between races it takes about 10 min.
Been told NOT to do it but if I'm in a hurry & you have your top gear lined up on the splines. I have a big fender washer that I use and take the bolt and carefully tighten it up. Get it a little tight tap on the clutch so on & so 4th. It's not good advice for some people if your not there to help. Don't try and ram er home & strip your jack shaft out. Make sure you gear is on the splines & straight. When in doubt DO AS THE PROS DO AND SAY NOT WHAT I DO OR SAY. This works for me but as with a lot of things in the snowmobile world takes some finesse and just becaus it works doesn't mean it's the best practice. When you need to change a gear or spring between races it takes about 10 min.
C
It should not be hard to remove or install a jackshaft. They should just slide in and out.
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I had his exact same problem this week on my g4 850. It wasn’t ever an issue for me on the xm and older sleds but the g4 does not have a cross brace between secondary clutch tower and the chaincase. Not having the cross brace allows the bearing tower to flex very easily inward and make the bearing not align just right and not be rigid enough to pull the bearing in the tight housing fit. The tower flexes in before there is enough pressure to set bearing. Like stated above.. I also sanded the sharp lip off and also heating the bearing housing a little and gave the clutch a light tap and it popped right in.
I was pretty frustrated for a bit.
I was pretty frustrated for a bit.
All you need to do is lightly pry out on the jack shaft while installing the clutch. It goes right in. No sanding or effort.
C
Like I mentioned, the G4 I worked on, the jackshaft came out and went back in smooth as silk. So im puzzled.
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same here..installed a doo doctor kit and everything was silky smooth
Every time I’ve had one out, the bearing pulls the clutch tower in toward the chain case unless I lightly pry it back out while installing.
Probably pulled out 8-10 of them. Not counting my own which has been several times.
May want to double check and make sure the bearing is fully seated.
If yours is good then no worries
Probably pulled out 8-10 of them. Not counting my own which has been several times.
May want to double check and make sure the bearing is fully seated.
If yours is good then no worries
QRS
Sometimes it goes smooth some times it doesn't. Nothing confusing about it that's just what can happen when working on a sled. If I had a nickel for every time a simple proses on a snowmobile went silky smooth and the next time kicked my a** I'd have more money than Davy Crockett.
Sometimes it goes smooth some times it doesn't. Nothing confusing about it that's just what can happen when working on a sled. If I had a nickel for every time a simple proses on a snowmobile went silky smooth and the next time kicked my a** I'd have more money than Davy Crockett.
C
No I dont agree. Ive pulled the shaft on a xp and xm lots over the years and it was always the same, they popped right out and slid back in.
The g4 i worked on surprised me how easy the jackshaft fell out and slid back in, twice! Cause I had that sled apart earlier this year.
Others say they have to use prybars and file ridges down on a simple driveshaft removal task, Something seems off.
The guys with the stubborn shafts did yah blow any belts and have belt temp issues? The owner of the sled I worked on did not have those issues.
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Mine is a brand new 18 that hasn’t been ridden yet and it still did it. Not a huge deal just tower is floppy from side to side so you have to pry out on it a little or heat it to get bearing to slide in.
I
Any additional pics or info on this? Where you’re prying, where you’re heating, sanding, etc...
2018 Gen4 Summit SP with zero miles...
I’ve done quite a few of these on previous models and never had these issues.
I don’t even want to admit how many hours I lost in the garage today. Must have had that shaft in and out 50 times trying to figure out why the bearing wasn’t seating. Finally realized the tower was flexing but had to call it a day at that point...
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2018 Gen4 Summit SP with zero miles...
I’ve done quite a few of these on previous models and never had these issues.
I don’t even want to admit how many hours I lost in the garage today. Must have had that shaft in and out 50 times trying to figure out why the bearing wasn’t seating. Finally realized the tower was flexing but had to call it a day at that point...
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C
Well something has changed over the 17's Ive had the shafts out of two 17's thus winter and they slid in and out with ease.
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S
Man I had the same problem with mine, so frustrating. I thought the bearing moved on the shaft didn't know what to do. I ended up getting two 2 inch c-clamps and pressing the bearing back into the support tower, that worked out very well.
S
Was also an 18 with zero miles
I
Might have to try the c-clamps to press it in...i thought the same thing about the bearing. I can’t see why they’d eliminate the cross member.
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S
I messed with that thing for probably 15 hours. Felt like an idiot
S
Yea those small c-clamps one on the front and one on the rear just work it in little by little, took about ten minutes and got it seated nice and tight back in it's home.
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