Primary removal

Nooby · Sep 1, 2014

Tried removing the primary clutch on my 09 RMK 800 tonight and the outer half came loose from the inner ( stationary ) half. Not sure what yo do at this point? Been trying yo find info without asking and not having any luck.
Would love to hear from those of you who have some knowledge on this. Seems my nooby abilities ( or lack there of )are failing me.....again.

Help, nooby

sled_guy · Sep 1, 2014

Were you using a puller? No way that can happen if you are using the right puller, the part you pull/push against is the inner sleeve's shaft.

Maybe post up a picture.

sled_guy

Nooby · Sep 2, 2014

Using a puller. Same one I use on my parts sled. I was a little shocked at the end result myself. What kind of monster have I created ? Not sure what to do at this point. I'm facing the learning curve head first. I'm all for any suggestions.

Thanks, Nooby

fastmnstealth · Sep 2, 2014

The clutch was likely fubar'd before you tried to pull it off. If you search on the forum, you will see a number of posts where the primary has broken in half. I've personally gone through this. Luckily, I was under warranty. The dealer had to weld it back together so he could use a standard puller. Others have cut the inner sheave off. Regardless of the method - make sure you don't expose the crank to too much heat (damage the seal) or if grinding, don't cut the crank.

Mark

mountainhorse · Sep 2, 2014

Post up a photo.

.

Nooby · Sep 2, 2014

So, I give it another shot tonight same thing. So, I took off the primary cover, remove cover and spring and see the retaining nut is loose. Didn't bring my tools home from work. I'm gonna drill the rivets out if the plastic side panels to get at this little headache.
The 2 halves are definitely separated. I'm thinking that's not a good sign. Won't be working on it tomorrow ( drinking night ) golf night. I'll try and get some pics and then see if my dumb azz can figure out how to post um. Thanks for the help gentleman.
I'm in over my head but I will not give up.

Thanks, Nooby

FYI I was not using a pry bar. 19 mm wrench with another wrench hooked over the end for a little extra leverage.

SylvanLaker · Sep 3, 2014

place sled on side so clutch is straight up.

put water into end of crankshaft so that the water level is half way up the threads.

take your stock bolt and wrap teflon around the threads

slowly screw in the bolt until you have a few threads engaged.
hold the clutch from turning the best you can and run the bolt in with a good impact gun very quickly. it'll pop right off.

if it doesn't you need a bit more water or something thicker. I've had to use heavy gear oil once or twice as the teflon couldn't keep the water sealed in.

The key is run the bolt in very fast as it will leak past the threads.

Another way is to do it in the winter. fill with water, seal threads with teflon, screw in bolt to the start of resistance and let sit. the water will freeze and pop the clutch off. One time I did this I couldn't find my clutch. it was 10m away in the snowbank.

milehighassassin · Sep 3, 2014

Did it rip your threads out?

How did the bolt come out and it shoot off the sled?

retiredpop · Sep 3, 2014

Nooby said:
So, I give it another shot tonight same thing. So, I took off the primary cover, remove cover and spring and see the retaining nut is loose. Didn't bring my tools home from work. I'm gonna drill the rivets out if the plastic side panels to get at this little headache.
The 2 halves are definitely separated. I'm thinking that's not a good sign. Won't be working on it tomorrow ( drinking night ) golf night. I'll try and get some pics and then see if my dumb azz can figure out how to post um. Thanks for the help gentleman.
I'm in over my head but I will not give up.

Thanks, Nooby

FYI I was not using a pry bar. 19 mm wrench with another wrench hooked over the end for a little extra leverage.

The spider must be loose as well in order for the outer sheave to come off. If you're really lucky you might be able to thread both the spider and jam nut back on and use the puller again. If the threads are stripped then you might have to get the jam nut spot welded on so you can use the puller.

Leftys · Sep 3, 2014

You do not need the outer sheave on the clutch to use a puller or get the clutch off. The puller threads into the I.D. of the shaft on the stationary sheave. The only purpose of the outer sheave when pulling a clutch is to have a place for a clutch holder to hold the clutch from turning when tightening the puller in the stationary sheave. Use rubbing alcohol, (rather than water, no residue or rust) Teflon tape the threads of the puller, and hydraulic the clutch off and be done with it.

retiredpop · Sep 4, 2014

^You're absolutely right. I don't know what I was thinking. I guess I got sidetracked in thinking because the outer sheave came off that the puller was pulling on it instead of the way it really works. Old age I guess!

retiredpop · Sep 4, 2014

Nooby does your puller look like the attachment?

retiredpop · Sep 4, 2014

fastmnstealth said:
The clutch was likely fubar'd before you tried to pull it off. If you search on the forum, you will see a number of posts where the primary has broken in half. I've personally gone through this. Luckily, I was under warranty. The dealer had to weld it back together so he could use a standard puller. Others have cut the inner sheave off. Regardless of the method - make sure you don't expose the crank to too much heat (damage the seal) or if grinding, don't cut the crank.

Mark

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301128&highlight=broken+primary

Nooby · Sep 4, 2014

Nooby · Sep 4, 2014

clutch and puller.

Nooby · Sep 4, 2014

so...the jam nut has come loose I tried to carefully tighten it up but, didn't help a bit. Got a heat gun and if need be an impact. I will make it relinquish its hold.

Nooby · Sep 4, 2014

I have won the battle. Clutch is removed and getting packed up. Thank you to all of you for the input and ideas. Yet another lesson for the nooby!

volcano buster · Sep 4, 2014

I always put a little oil on the puller threads and on the tip to help from galling the puller up. Needed? Not sure, but just my habit.

retiredpop · Sep 4, 2014

volcano buster said:
I always put a little oil on the puller threads and on the tip to help from galling the puller up. Needed? Not sure, but just my habit.

Good advice. In fact Yamaha said to do that in one of my old service manuals.

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