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Best Way to Seal pipe to can

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Adobe-Al

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2008
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Montrose,Co
I keep blowingout my silicone at the junction between my SLP pipe and Can. Does anyone have any tricks or tips to stop this?
 
K

koschak

Member
Jan 16, 2008
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Northern Minnesota
You shouldn't have to use a sealant. The pipe should fit nicely into the can and seal itself with spring pressure. Maybe there is a high temp rtv that you can put in the flange then put the springs on and don't run the sled until it all dries.
 

MARV1

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May 3, 2004
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Lol Josh, still need some high temp silicone to seal it up, SLP sells it too and it is recommended that you put some.
 
R
Oct 15, 2009
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8
Sisseton, SD
I used permatex ultra copper on mine. Put a thin layer in the flange of the can and let it dry, put on a little more and assemble it dont start it till it dries. I havent had any problems
 
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INDEEP

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Nov 26, 2007
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Post Falls, ID
Like was said above make sure and let it dry a couple days before firing it up. I've found the cooper works good.
 

Kraven

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Apr 11, 2009
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I keep blowingout my silicone at the junction between my SLP pipe and Can. Does anyone have any tricks or tips to stop this?

Same Hi-temp Copper Sealant as above^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Perhaps try cleaning the points of contact better, a little wirewheel/sandpaper, lacquer thinner wipe down?
 
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X2Freeride

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2009
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Same Hi-temp Copper Sealant as above^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Perhaps try cleaning the points of contact better, a little wirewheel/sandpaper, lacquer thinner wipe down?



X2 I always use thinner to take the grease off before application.
 
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volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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Stayton Oregon
Good idea. The pipe to Y-pipe connection on my kids sled has a small imperfection in it and tends to blow oily gunk back on the engine.
 
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Adobe-Al

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2008
608
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Montrose,Co
Thanks, I have used the Red High Temp stuff, but I'm thinking that when I used it might of been to cold outside. So I think I'll try the copper stuff and let it dry then put another coat on it when I assemble it. I will also see about getting some new springs. Mine seem strong but who knows. Thanks All,
 
K
Feb 8, 2005
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55
Yakima, Wa
I've got similar issues with my pipe to can and my kids Y to pipe joints. I've got some muffler packing material that is a real thin fiber, almost like a fiber board material that's used for the inner layer underneath muffler packing. I'm going to try and cut some "donuts" out of it and use ultra copper to bond it to the male side before joining. This should hold up to the heat and seal real good and it's thin enough to form.
Anyone else ever try this?
 

whoisthatguy

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Dec 27, 2007
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Just take your windshield off so you can't suck in the fumes. Works like a charm. And don't ever sit down, unless the engine is dead.
 
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Adobe-Al

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2008
608
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Montrose,Co
Dumb question, but how does taking off your windsheild effect Ex-fumes? I also ride standing all day not sure if I understand how that effects either? I do know that when the seal is leaking in deep powder my machine boggs out more. It will also bogg alot more when sidehilling (exhaust side uphill) in the deep stuff.

Al
 

whoisthatguy

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Taking off the windshield keeps the wind blowing smoothly over the top of your hood and the fumes out the back side of the hood and on down the airstream. With a windshield, you get eddies and swirling like at the back of an suv, which draws that fumes up into that eddy which also surrounds your helmet. With no windshield, your helmet stays above the eddy currents that contain the fumes. The higher your helmet is above the poisonous eddy currents, the more clean air you breath. Thus, resulting in less unintended brain damage by the end of the ride.
 
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