1998 700 SRX Mountain gearing

700SnowKingSpecial · Mar 3, 2013

My dad's got a mint modified srx mountain that he picked up last year. It has a Ekholm Mountain Master tunnel, a clutch kit, Powderlites trailing arms, and a 144'' camoplast challenger track thats about 2'' tall, as well as a can. It runs excellant, but it's geared down waaaayyyy too much. To do 60 km/h, I have the crank spinning at 6600 RPM, on a fresh groom trail. The main problem, is that to keep up with short track sleds, in the deep snow (2'), I have to run it almost pinned, over 7000 RPM. I haven't been into the chaincase, and don't know what gears are on it. I was thinking of using the stock srx mountain gears, and adding 1 or 2 teeth to the bottom. Sound good? Give me your suggestions. Thanks.

RMG · Mar 4, 2013

Sounds strange....but you likely need to gear it down more. You need to see what you have for gears now and go from there.

M5- · Mar 4, 2013

Sounds more to me like the secondary is not shifting out. Put a magic marker line on your primary from the hub out to the outside of the sheave then go for a rip. The belt should wear off the mark up to within a half inch of the outside of the primary. If it doesn't your secondary and likely rpimary clutching is all wrong.

M5

Lt Rascal · Mar 4, 2013

Shouldn't these be running over 8000 RPM's?

Sounds like secondary to me as well. Check bushing and slides for binding.

Mcx Nytro · Mar 4, 2013

WIth the Eckholm tunnel check to see if it is dropped and rolled. With this sled and that track the gearing is best @2.10.-1 The peak rpm for these with stock triples is 8700 and 8900 for aftermarket( which added very little) Make sure you have the original wrap on pipes.This sled likes helix so I ran a53/45 with a cat yellow sec. spring. set at 6/2. I only ran 50 grms in the primary with 14.5 rollers. KEPP THE secondary clean with brakeclean huge for backshifting.Set up right these were deadly sleds....02:face-icon-small-hap

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Mar 4, 2013

A 98-99 srx 700 stock is making max power at 8350 rpm. The 2000-01 srx700 make max power at 8500 rpm.
I would imagine it is running 9 tooth drivers since its got the ekholm tunnel with d&R correct? If so 19/42 gearing is where you wanna be if riding and hillclimbing in the mountains but anywhere around 2:1 ratio is a good starting point.
Will still go plenty fast down the trail if clutches are shifting out.

700SnowKingSpecial · Mar 4, 2013

Never thought of the clutches. It has a anodized red aftermarket cover for both the primary and secondary. Can't quite remember the name. Hi-something. Anyways, will try this next time I go for a ride. Big thanks to all. Will keep you guys updated.

700SnowKingSpecial · Mar 4, 2013

It is D&R. trail wise its not bad, but the running out of rpm in the powder is what worries me.

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Mar 4, 2013

Id be willing to bet that you need to have that primary and secondary clutch gone thru. New bushings. When was the last time this was done?
Also a worn out belt will kill your rpms so you need to check that first.
The Hi-Tech end caps for the primary are a good Idea as they have a much bigger bushing surface than the stock ones. The bronze bushing in them are replaceable too.
What RPM at WOT is it pulling on the trail?
If your getting proper rpm on trail and it isnt anywhere near that in the deep snow then its likely not backshifting properly. I'd look at your secondary clutch pressure. Mabey the spring going soft.
Also check that primary out real close for any cracks developing in the sheeves at the bottom of the sheeves near the shaft. This wont be related to your rpm problem but you need to be aware and watch for those heat cracks. When those primarys expolde it aint pretty.

Lt Rascal · Mar 4, 2013

700SnowKingSpecial said:
Never thought of the clutches. It has a anodized red aftermarket cover for both the primary and secondary. Can't quite remember the name. Hi-something. Anyways, will try this next time I go for a ride. Big thanks to all. Will keep you guys updated.

Is it Hi-Tech?

I am running the Hi-Tech setup on mine. Check the rollers in the secondary. If they have a any flat spots in them then check the bushing for the back slidding plate. I found flat spots on my rollers so i called and talked to Duane and he told me if the rollers have flats spots it is normally caused by the rear plate bushing being bad. Mine was so I just replaced the rear bushing on mine the first of this year.

http://www.hitechperformance.net/shop/index.php

Lt Rascal · Mar 4, 2013

Also, I am running 19 / 40 gears and mine will pull your arms out up to about 65 mph then it stops. But that is what i want. I want bottom end grunt. I do not need to go 100 mph down the trail on a mountain sled.

Mcx Nytro · Mar 5, 2013

Lt Rascal said:
Also, I am running 19 / 40 gears and mine will pull your arms out up to about 65 mph then it stops. But that is what i want. I want bottom end grunt. I do not need to go 100 mph down the trail on a mountain sled.

That should pull hard to about 85 mph easily I never like to leave anything on the table. My gearing was 2.10-1 with a drop and roll and 9 tooth drivers. I ran a multi-angle helix and a cat red sec spring set @0/2 With a gr/wht/grn primary It would top out on the speedo(not very accurate) at 112 mph..02

700SnowKingSpecial · Mar 11, 2013

Went for a long ride this weekend. I was on the SRX, the old man on a 2010 800 dragon switch. Rolling start at 40 mph. Srx pulled hard to 90 mph let off. Dragon was on hardpack (has a 1.75"), srx on groomed. Would rev past 8750, but I held er' at 8500. Beat the 800 by 6 lengths in 2/5s of a km. Dragon topped out at around 90ish. Was surprised by this beast.

Lt Rascal · Mar 11, 2013

So what changed?

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Mar 11, 2013

Sounds like you need to throw some more weight in the primary to get the rpm in the sweet spot. That SRX should have no problem beating those scarry Dragons. :face-icon-small-sho

700SnowKingSpecial · Mar 13, 2013

Thought it was gearing/clutching. It does need heavier weights, but the dreaded Pro-Action rear suspension has to be re-adjusted. Its completely out of wack. I'm thinking its doesn't have enough weight on the rear skid AKA its not balanced right.

Mcx Nytro · Mar 14, 2013

700SnowKingSpecial said:
Thought it was gearing/clutching. It does need heavier weights, but the dreaded Pro-Action rear suspension has to be re-adjusted. Its completely out of wack. I'm thinking its doesn't have enough weight on the rear skid AKA its not balanced right.

What I did with mine was move the suspention back 5" that was as far as it would go. Yami realized the problem and the 2000 mm was moved back 9" Bender had a set of adjustable rods that helped the srx squat and dig rather than just spin. When you spin your clutch shifts out and when you hit traction it won't backshift properly and just bog. Cold air was also a MUST HAVE!!!!!!! for this sled

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Mar 14, 2013

Since you already have the ekholm tunnel I am willing to bet your sled already has the skid relocation as mentioned in the pevious post.
Measure from the edge of your bulkhead back to your front skid mount location and let me know what that measures.

If it was relocated and all suspension geometry was changed to 2000 MM specs it would measure 5 and 5/8" back from edge of bulkhead. It may have not been setback that far though and thats ok.

If the suspension is still bolted in the stock position it would be bolted thru both tunnel and bulkhead 2.5" forward of the front edge of your steering hoop.

Adjustable transfer rods would help with hook up if you dont already have them.

700SnowKingSpecial · Mar 14, 2013

Just ran out and measured the distance. 2 1/2" from the front edge of the hoop, towards the rear. About 5" from the driveshaft.

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Mar 15, 2013

Sounds like your front arm mount is still in the in the stock location. You could do a skid setback which will reduce your attack angle and make it get on the snow better. There are a few ways to go about it. Best way is to convert rear skid to 2000 and up Mountain Max geometry but it will require buying a few new parts for rear skid and drilling some mounting holes in the rails as well as doing some math.
You can also just set back your existing skid without altering the geometry of the skid and get good results.
"Assuming its a 144 track as you say and not 141"
If you move your front arm mount to where it sits
1" behind your steering hoop youd have roughly 4.5" setback from your original mount hole. You could then remove your rail extensions as they would be no longer required "Assuming that is an srx mountain with 136 rails from the factory"
You would then need to setback the center skid mount and rear drop bracket mounts the same distance you moved the front mount location of course.
Most important before you do anything you really need to verify that it is a 144 and not a 141 so you you can figure your setback correctly. Theres a serial number moulded into the track. Let me know what that number is. If you cant find that then count the rods and multiply by 2.52.

1998 700 SRX Mountain gearing

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads