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We will refund you even if Vforce doesn't Larry.
LOW IDLE AFTER INSTALLING V-FORCE-3R REEDS, ANYONE ELSE??
- Thread starter Sheetmetalfab
- Start date
C
I have a theory....I am having the issue as well with stock 2013 Switchback Pro-R at sea level to 2000 feet. I have read about TPS setting and stiff reeds but know one has entertained the idea about modded airboxes. I have the 3 holes cut into my airbox shelf from BMP. Others I'm sure have the SLP intake, could the issue be air flow across the reeds? With extra holes in the shelf could the air pressure be less then stock? Could this be also the case for SLP intakes and others over stock? I spoke to Jim at dynotech and he never had the issue with stock 800 he tested, which we know was stock. Any thoughts? I took out the 15% from 0-1500 rpm's last night on the PCV and the sled went back to normal. 2-3 times outta 20 I had to blip the throttle after starting the sled when the rpms dropped to 1200 but I had no issues at any time with the sled shutting down.
F
I finally broke down and installed the 3R's in my 15. At 440 miles the stock reeds were starting to chip already. Haven't driven it yet but it idled fine.... Will report back
Back to stock reeds and it runs the same or better with these.
Idles perfect now.
I actually have reverse!!!
Sent the vforce back thru a2d, we will see what happens.
Idles perfect now.
I actually have reverse!!!
Sent the vforce back thru a2d, we will see what happens.
P
Looks like we are in the same boat. I have the 860 mentioned earlier in the thread. No questions it was the reeds causing the idle issue on mine. From what I had heard it was more than needing to break in and they are "working" on a fix or update or something. I sent mine back in and will wait till I hear there are less issues before ordering a new pair. Probably a next year deal, would be my guess...
PV
(oh, and the BMP 860 is a very impressive performance increase. With 72 gram belly busters it was pulling 8200+ and spiking to 8500 at 1300 feet this weekend. Limited snow and super short up hill pulls so not really a true test. We'll see how it does in some real snow, if we find any more this crappy year...)
PV
(oh, and the BMP 860 is a very impressive performance increase. With 72 gram belly busters it was pulling 8200+ and spiking to 8500 at 1300 feet this weekend. Limited snow and super short up hill pulls so not really a true test. We'll see how it does in some real snow, if we find any more this crappy year...)
I'm Running 73 grams in mtx wieghts.
Stock bore. 62-42-40 helix
Black purple sec. Green pink primary.
Pulling 8150 consistently at 2400-3500'
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for the guys having problems, what are you running for a fuel controller? the power commander 5 or the power commander FC.
P
I'm Running 73 grams in mtx wieghts.
Stock bore. 62-42-40 helix
Black purple sec. Green pink primary.
Pulling 8150 consistently at 2400-3500'
That's good and right about where you want to be. That's equivalent to stock 10-68 weights. Which is exactly what a stock pro will pull with your setup. although, IMO, the stock 68s are more consistent. Although you could probably improve a little with spring changes.
PV
F
Took mine for a short ride today. idled fine reverse works fine. It was low icy snow so tough to tell if it has more top end but defiantly feels snappier in the mid range. So anyone that bought the reeds for a 15 might not have any run ability issues to worry about... It seems to me that the guys that are having issues have the older sleds? After reading some of the reviews I was scared to install mine but am glad I did as my stock reeds were already chipping at 400 miles. we'll see how these hold up...
2012 Pro TMX3LR-- 350 miles-- idled a little low at first, seems fine now
2011 Pro TMX3LR-- 50 miles-- initially kept fuel fouling plugs on virgin startup. Brake cleaner on new plugs, cracked throttle while spinning motor with Estart. Motor fired, sounded like one cylinder. Held throttle open around 2000 rpm. Second cylinder fired, cleared out. Sled has idled fine ever since.
2011 Pro TMX3LR-- 50 miles-- initially kept fuel fouling plugs on virgin startup. Brake cleaner on new plugs, cracked throttle while spinning motor with Estart. Motor fired, sounded like one cylinder. Held throttle open around 2000 rpm. Second cylinder fired, cleared out. Sled has idled fine ever since.
Think i need to pull my also. 600miles on them now, not anything close to better.
How is the 858 kit working out for you? Have the same kit, just cant pull the rpms with polaris 10-series weights.
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Im running the 3R in my Fastrax 800cfi. Curtis told me to highlight the whole map from 0-20% throttle and from 0-clutch engagement and do -4% or so.
And if you really want, -10% JUST at idle. That should clean it up.
And if you really want, -10% JUST at idle. That should clean it up.
G
Sounds about right to get going for my set anyway. I had to go above the clutch engagement line quite away to get finished though.
I can verify it isn't TPS settings on mine too now.
At this point in the season with all the opposites on this thread (some no change, some just TPS, some need less fuel) we should be getting to an answer from V-Force IMO.
Did they screw up? is there 2 or more different petal sets or thicknesses? Do I whine and ask for something different for next year?
In the past summer I phoned Vforce about the possibility of softer reeds (didn't like the airflow on the DT site review) and was told no need but could special order thinner for XXX dollars.
Anyone phone Vforce direct about this issue? Anyone know if some were put out wrong compared to others and what to measure or look at?
K
I will add to the confusion. I just installed a set in a 13 switchback 800 with mtnk drop in kit air box modded and she idles 1750 just like with stock reeds
ok, one more to join the part.
My 2011 pro rmk was fouling a bit to easy and I suspected the reeds. About 2000km on sled.
Changed reeds only. Good running sled with PAR 12:1 head, gear down and clutch work + slp torque arm.
Sled now has these idle problems that cannot be solved by idle setting. But it also pulls really strong! DET problem came lurking again, the "to-fast-engine-rpm-increase" DET. Full throttle is no problem as long as you ease into a bit.
Will say these reeds appear to be working good, but messing a bit with the idle setup. Think I want to either get the TPS to correct it or finally install a fuel box.
A bit on the side, but are people happy with Boondocker box for adjusting these sleds? No turbo or massive mod.
Thanks
My 2011 pro rmk was fouling a bit to easy and I suspected the reeds. About 2000km on sled.
Changed reeds only. Good running sled with PAR 12:1 head, gear down and clutch work + slp torque arm.
Sled now has these idle problems that cannot be solved by idle setting. But it also pulls really strong! DET problem came lurking again, the "to-fast-engine-rpm-increase" DET. Full throttle is no problem as long as you ease into a bit.
Will say these reeds appear to be working good, but messing a bit with the idle setup. Think I want to either get the TPS to correct it or finally install a fuel box.
A bit on the side, but are people happy with Boondocker box for adjusting these sleds? No turbo or massive mod.
Thanks
I'm with using fuel controller to removing fuel at idle. Mine right now with an Aaen pipe, V-Force and fixit spacer pistons is -16. It seems the V-Force really richen up the low RPMS, the Aaen pipe might have something to do with it also. I did the TPS a couple times just to make sure, tried getting it closer to the 9.5 spec after base spec of 7-7.05 and lost reverse and no effect on idle.
I had some issue with DET after letting off and then getting back on throttle hard, mainly on trail circumstances, but have't had epic snow rides yet this year. I had a .010 timing key in it that supposedly equaled 1.5 degree advance. Now I know other people running more advance than that and not having issues. I am wondering if it could be powervalve issues, maybe a lighter spring might cause them to start opening sooner.
I had some issue with DET after letting off and then getting back on throttle hard, mainly on trail circumstances, but have't had epic snow rides yet this year. I had a .010 timing key in it that supposedly equaled 1.5 degree advance. Now I know other people running more advance than that and not having issues. I am wondering if it could be powervalve issues, maybe a lighter spring might cause them to start opening sooner.
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G
Hey Bob.
I have the same components as you plus porting and SLP head (in case you didn't mention it). I use a Boondocker box for fueling. I've also tried soft and stock ex.valve springs (while stockish the softer spring feel great) and no change to this on-off det.
First year (with the Aaen pipe) I put up with the on-off throttle det on the trail but tried fueling often to get rid of it. Boony box allows fuel to be added with your thumb on a button and I went as high as +35%, until response became dull.
Still there until burble rich.
Second year I took out the timing and no change. Took off the SLP head, bit better but lost snap. Next, changed the stock head to get snap back (reshape squish to fit pistons, cut deck to get to 31 thou. squish). This gave me the same cranking pressure as the SLP head and I feel a bit stronger on top but still had the trail det.
Talked to Dynotech and Mr. Aaen thinking it may be pipe pressure and even when to the point of building a different silencer after both said it was not an issue. Still there.
Put the SLP pipe set back on and no det but missed the mid range in the deep and reinstalled the Aaen.
Finally, even though I was clutched for 8000-8050 rpm any way (150 less than SLP), I was adding weight to mid shift (TP HHer's) to get down to 7850-7900 rpm (where mine feels best on short stuff like trees) and it 95% disappeared.
This lower rpm didn't seem to make 1 MPH difference in WFO deep track speed but lifted the ski's easier.
So, I believe it may be the pipe and it's added midrange power combined with Poo's answer for engine saving det control.
Hope it helps 'cause it sure is a bummer have to restart in every second corner on the rat race home lol.
I have the same components as you plus porting and SLP head (in case you didn't mention it). I use a Boondocker box for fueling. I've also tried soft and stock ex.valve springs (while stockish the softer spring feel great) and no change to this on-off det.
First year (with the Aaen pipe) I put up with the on-off throttle det on the trail but tried fueling often to get rid of it. Boony box allows fuel to be added with your thumb on a button and I went as high as +35%, until response became dull.
Still there until burble rich.
Second year I took out the timing and no change. Took off the SLP head, bit better but lost snap. Next, changed the stock head to get snap back (reshape squish to fit pistons, cut deck to get to 31 thou. squish). This gave me the same cranking pressure as the SLP head and I feel a bit stronger on top but still had the trail det.
Talked to Dynotech and Mr. Aaen thinking it may be pipe pressure and even when to the point of building a different silencer after both said it was not an issue. Still there.
Put the SLP pipe set back on and no det but missed the mid range in the deep and reinstalled the Aaen.
Finally, even though I was clutched for 8000-8050 rpm any way (150 less than SLP), I was adding weight to mid shift (TP HHer's) to get down to 7850-7900 rpm (where mine feels best on short stuff like trees) and it 95% disappeared.
This lower rpm didn't seem to make 1 MPH difference in WFO deep track speed but lifted the ski's easier.
So, I believe it may be the pipe and it's added midrange power combined with Poo's answer for engine saving det control.
Hope it helps 'cause it sure is a bummer have to restart in every second corner on the rat race home lol.
What year sled do you have the Aaen on Geo? Mine is a 15, and Jim said to add 2-3% to the top for the 14-15's, the map was for a 12. But my auto tune added alot more to the top and is suggesting alot more in the spots on the midrange, but that could be when letting off gas. Haven't gotten to a lake or something where I can just roll on and roll off smoothly to try and rid my self of the spikes.
Also have read guys running different clutching to load the engine more and that got rid of trail DET.
Also have read guys running different clutching to load the engine more and that got rid of trail DET.
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