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M6 Motor Swap Fast Idle and Knock

I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
I have an M6 motor swapped into my 06' SnoPro chassis. Fired it up tonight for the first time. Ran into a weird problem. It idles extremely fast(no gauge but i will get my laser rpm going tomorrow), and theres a large knock from the PTO side. I hope it's not a crank seal because it was a PAIN to get that motor in there with all the braces and supports from the race chassis.

There's a lot of plugs that i am not using. There's a two prong both female end, i assume plugs into the Diamond Drive? It's by the servo motor plug.

There's a bunch of plugs that look like hand warmer plugs i am not using. 6 wire plug yellow and green wires, then another 6 wire plug, yellow green and brown. I assume one is for hand warmer control switch that i do not have on the handlebars, and the other is for the handwarmers to plug into, which i don't have either.

Anyone have suggestions on what to look for? I'm stumped. I'll get a video tomorrow.
 

Phizzer

Well-known member
Premium Member
Oct 23, 2008
1,219
422
83
39
Ketchikan, AK
Just throwing this out there, but are the intake boots lined up 100%? If they aren't correctly on, you could be sucking some air giving you the high idle and the knock you hear could be the air getting drawn through the void. Something to check out!!
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Took a half hour to get those throttle bodies lined up right hen I put them on between all the extra braces. I took spray and sprayed it all around the throttle body boots hen it was idling, well screaming in my ear, idle never change at all, sprayed it on PTO side crank seal area no change in idle either. Sprayed it in the air box, idle dropped like it should until the extra fuel was burnt then the idle went right back up.

I have an Ecu from a 700 I will try and throw on to see if the Ecu is bad, I got all this stuff from a wrecked m6 and the plastics on the Ecu were broken so maybe that's it. Guy said it was good though so we'll see.
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Bolted down the motor, did another runout test, 0.001" runout positive and 0.001" negative, total of 0.002", from what I understand that is spec.

Square injectors, square ECU, I just took the motor completely out. Throttle body boots are still good. I took the spark plugs out, the mag side looked like it was lean. Lots of black fluid on the plug. I think I'll have to split the case and check for water leaks. And then check the mag side crank seal

Checked the rank runout, it perfect. 0.003 runout max.

I took the recoil off, the flywheel, and found this.


Just like I thought, mag side crank seal, I didn't want to say it was a crank seal incase others read my thread. I tried everything prior, cleaning injectors, new injector orings, checked throttle body boots, checked oil lines, checked plugs, MAG side was lean, PTO was nice tan. Right there I knew it had to be either the crankcase seal on the halves failing from wrong adhesive being used, or the mag side crank seal.

In the end, I'm going to anerobic seal the case halves together with two new crank seals. The PTO side looked like it was on its way out as well. I have a set of used crank seals that were just fine on an old motor, was debating on using them but I don't want to take it apart again.

Also tested runout on the mag side and it was less then 0.001"
 
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