sway bar

bill900rmk · Nov 5, 2017

I am installing a ZRP full front end on my axys with raptor shocks and am just noticing that you have to buy their sway bar mount seperate if you would like to use the sway bar. Has anyone run with and without the sway bar? What was your experience?

gonehuntnpowder · Nov 5, 2017

I am going to remove mine. Ordered assault front springs. Of I want more I am gonna do the Zollinger spindles.

FatDogX · Nov 5, 2017

If your going to remove the sway bar, then you really should consider a front shock re-valve to compensate for the removal. If not, when you roll the sled to a side the shock will just collapse easier, thus giving you a "feeling" that the sled is rolling over, when in reality all your doing is compressing the shock.

Where this is crucial, is when lets say you are traversing a side hill. The side of the sled that is on the hill side will have a shock that is collapsed / compressed further then normal. Obviously not a huge deal "if" the side hill is completely smooth and there is nothing under the snow!! Now, add in a rough side hill or something under the snow like a stump, rock or even hard snow. With the shock compressed more, you have less shock travel, so if you hit something, the shock cannot do its job and absorb the hit, which then you get bucked!!!

So without a shock re-valve and a sway bar removal, your basically handicapping your front shocks and given a false sense of proper handling. Hopefully that makes sense?

gonehuntnpowder · Nov 5, 2017

That's why I was gonna go with the assault springs. The weight is supported by the spring. Shock valving controls how fast the shock compresses or returns right?? Am I confused??? If I like the setup generally it was my thought to have the shocks valved similar to the assault.

LoudHandle · Nov 5, 2017

Your thought process is spot on

gonehuntnpowder said:
..................The weight is supported by the spring. Shock valving controls how fast the shock compresses or returns..................

Spring Rate and amount of spring preload control ride height. Valving (Piston office size and shim stack controls the speed of collapse and return). With a sway bar you are borrowing spring rate from the shock that is in the air (or lightly loaded, think cornering on the trail, sled basically flat, inertia is trying to pick the inside ski, borrowing spring rate helps plant the outside ski and keep the sled level).

Typically it is not a big increase in spring rate with sway bar removed, sometimes just a bit more preload is enough. It really just depends on how aggressive you are with your riding style.

That said; most stock and aftermarket springs are garbage, but I like RCS's Titanium springs when ever possible. They cost more, but they never sag or lose their spring rate like the cheap stock steel springs do. Plus you get a weight savings to boot.

m7ascent · Nov 18, 2017

gonehuntnpowder said:
That's why I was gonna go with the assault springs. The weight is supported by the spring. Shock valving controls how fast the shock compresses or returns right?? Am I confused??? If I like the setup generally it was my thought to have the shocks valved similar to the assault.

I had the same idea as you to use the assault springs on my pro. They were way to stiff for the narrower front end (buck board wagon of a ride). Granted I probably weigh #155 geared up, but that was my experience. I went back to the stock springs and just increased preload until I felt it was supporting itself and not wanting to roll over in the corners. Has worked fine for me, I much prefer it to having the sway bar installed, I will have my shocks revalved for sway bar out as soon as they are ready for a service/seals.

AndrettiDog · Nov 18, 2017

FatDogX said:
If your going to remove the sway bar, then you really should consider a front shock re-valve to compensate for the removal. If not, when you roll the sled to a side the shock will just collapse easier, thus giving you a "feeling" that the sled is rolling over, when in reality all your doing is compressing the shock.

Where this is crucial, is when lets say you are traversing a side hill. The side of the sled that is on the hill side will have a shock that is collapsed / compressed further then normal. Obviously not a huge deal "if" the side hill is completely smooth and there is nothing under the snow!! Now, add in a rough side hill or something under the snow like a stump, rock or even hard snow. With the shock compressed more, you have less shock travel, so if you hit something, the shock cannot do its job and absorb the hit, which then you get bucked!!!

So without a shock re-valve and a sway bar removal, your basically handicapping your front shocks and given a false sense of proper handling. Hopefully that makes sense?

YES!!! This! People don't realize how they are impacting their shock performance when removing the sway bar. Reminds me of people leveling trucks on the stock shocks and control arms.

I realize people want that "roll" by removing the sway bar, but I think this sled is so easy to put on it's side anyway. If you want to see how much impact removing the sway bar has, put the sled on it's side and remove one side. You will see how the a-arms behave so much differently.

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sway bar

bill900rmk

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gonehuntnpowder

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FatDogX

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gonehuntnpowder

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LoudHandle

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m7ascent

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AndrettiDog

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