ULTIMATE PRO-PEX!

jskattum606 · Apr 29, 2014

Yeah. I looked at the options for body work for quite a while. Decided to go this route because they are molded to the bulkhead. The axys look interesting but there are none local I can look at. Maybe ill try and set the dash In a little so my knees can go farther forward.

Thanks for the input fellas. Ill get some more pics up tomorrow

sportsterdanne · Apr 30, 2014

I really like the stubby nose on the Nytro, on my build there is alot of unused space in the front (Nytro Engine with Pro RMK plastic).

jskattum606 · Apr 30, 2014

Here is the main reason for the pro plastics. This is my fourth tube sled and I just could never get myself to finish the body work on any of them. The body work I made always let snow in everywhere and was never that stock sled fit and finish. Thats what im getting from the pro plastics. Cpt. Ron used just the hood and some misc. Other nytro plastics and it turned out great. That being said. I couldnt get myself to just freestyle body work again. Its not my thing. Thanks for the input anyways. I think I made the right decision for me and the longevity of the build

treemagnet03 · Apr 30, 2014

And to be honest, it'll likely have better value should you go to sell it with Pro plastics. I'm pretty sure most of the market is done with the Nytro...:noidea:

jskattum606 · Apr 30, 2014

Matte Murder · Apr 30, 2014

I love the whole tube frame concept. Easy(easy is relative I know) to customize and meld chassis and engine together, ease of repair, ability to add strength in areas that need it and lighten up areas that allow it etc. Couple questions; why not do full tube frame(why did you use the cast bulkhead) and why don't you build it so you can use flat carbon panels for bodywork? Good luck!

LoudHandle · Apr 30, 2014

I've been biting my tongue for days, to avoid being negative.

So I will try and be as positive as possible.

I see the tube chassis and Carbon Fibre skins as needless redundancy. With the stock cooling extrusions and Carbon fibre skins and doubler plates instead of the aluminum, you are still lighter than stock and far stronger. A 4'x8' sheet of 1/16" dragon plate is less than a grand and is plenty to do the full tunnel, doubling just the known crumple zones or the whole thing, if you feel the need.

I am a welder by trade but would never put extra steel into a snowmobile. I try to eliminate all the steel in my sleds in favor of lighter, stronger materials (i.e. Titanium, Aluminum, Carbon Fibre, engineering plastics, etc.). I get flamed every time I use the cliche but I see steel as "Mid-west farmer technology".

You will not reach your projected weight target with that approach, you may get sub 500#'s dry but not 420-430 like you are hoping for. I hope you prove me wrong, and regardless it should be a fun sled. Build on, we will be watching.

Wheel House Motorsports · May 1, 2014

LoudHandle said:
I've been biting my tongue for days, to avoid being negative.
Please do, its much more enjoyable when you do.
So I will try and be as positive as possible.

I see the tube chassis and Carbon Fibre skins as needless redundancy. With the stock cooling extrusions and Carbon fibre skins and doubler plates instead of the aluminum, you are still lighter than stock and far stronger. A 4'x8' sheet of 1/16" dragon plate is less than a grand and is plenty to do the full tunnel, doubling just the known crumple zones or the whole thing, if you feel the need.

I am a welder by trade but would never put extra steel into a snowmobile. I try to eliminate all the steel in my sleds in favor of lighter, stronger materials (i.e. Titanium, Aluminum, Carbon Fibre, engineering plastics, etc.). I get flamed every time I use the cliche but I see steel as "Mid-west farmer technology".

You will not reach your projected weight target with that approach, you may get sub 500#'s dry but not 420-430 like you are hoping for. I hope you prove me wrong, and regardless it should be a fun sled. Build on, we will be watching.

There is always a better and lighter way to build sleds. We aren''t NASA, we have a budget and unlike you, we actually build the projects we talk about. So in one aspect, you are correct, there are better, lighter, stronger ways to do this sled. BUT, The cost to manufacture the way it is being done is very reasonable and the results speak for themselves.

Please start your own thread to show us your build and exactly how YOU are going to do YOURS and don't bog this one down.

Thanks you come again.

jskattum606 · May 1, 2014

Funny you should say that. I grew up on a farm:face-icon-small-win

jskattum606 · May 1, 2014

Matte Murder said:
I love the whole tube frame concept. Easy(easy is relative I know) to customize and meld chassis and engine together, ease of repair, ability to add strength in areas that need it and lighten up areas that allow it etc. Couple questions; why not do full tube frame(why did you use the cast bulkhead) and why don't you build it so you can use flat carbon panels for bodywork? Good luck!

My past sleds get wrecked. The reason for the cast bulk head is that it allows me to have more Replacable parts. If I do something dumb I can replace individual parts now instead of a whole chassis. If you look at my last pictures, I made the upper towers all Replacable as well.

As for the flat carbon body work. You have to have a frame for all of that to attach to. By the time that is sorted out, it ends up weighing a lot and the sldd is not as serviceable. Like anything. It can be done but pro pannels are pretty well engineered which cuts a lot of work out for me

SNWMBL · May 1, 2014

I'm building CF bodywork for my Nytro. Mine is taking me a long time because I have other projects at the moment, but it really isn't that hard. Build the tube chassis and get the suspension/engine/steering post in then just start wrapping duct tape around everything and it will slowly start giving you a shape. A gallon of bondo and some fiberglass will have you shaping the final product. My old Nytro plastics with the hardware, tube supports, aluminum panels, ect. were over 14 lbs. My new panels should be less than 5 lbs total, much stronger, and better fit & finish than before. Just something to think about.

You move quick, I wish my projects progressed that fast!

joshkoltes · May 2, 2014

I want to see the 1/16 diamond plate tunnel loud handle haha! should look different!
http://dragonplate.com/mobile/products.asp
Holy crap that's some night dollar stuff

sportsterdanne · May 2, 2014

Do you have a plan for the steering ?
In my build i did a steering post over the engine and linked it to the Pro Pitman arm. i have not found any good pictures of how its done on the Axys but its probably a simpler and lighter solution.

jskattum606 · May 2, 2014

sportsterdanne said:
Do you have a plan for the steering ?
In my build i did a steering post over the engine and linked it to the Pro Pitman arm. i have not found any good pictures of how its done on the Axys but its probably a simpler and lighter solution.

From what i can tell, the Axys has the same steering system as the pro. Haven't gotten my steering all sorted out yet but it will have a strait post down to the bulk head then im not sure yet. have a bunch of steering parts coming in the mail today hopefully.

jskattum606 · May 2, 2014

SNWMBL said:
I'm building CF bodywork for my Nytro. Mine is taking me a long time because I have other projects at the moment, but it really isn't that hard. Build the tube chassis and get the suspension/engine/steering post in then just start wrapping duct tape around everything and it will slowly start giving you a shape. A gallon of bondo and some fiberglass will have you shaping the final product. My old Nytro plastics with the hardware, tube supports, aluminum panels, ect. were over 14 lbs. My new panels should be less than 5 lbs total, much stronger, and better fit & finish than before. Just something to think about.

You move quick, I wish my projects progressed that fast!

Ive followed your project. Looks good but im trying to move away from the crazy bodywork. makes them impossible to sell in the future
Also not sure about the " better fit & finish than before."
With this build im willing to sacrafice some weight for some good functioning body work.
Im building it with a yami motor for goodness sake ; )

so all this talk about weight has me thinking. FUTURE BUILD haha
sled for the wife

same chassis idea i have going but a 600 or 700 cfi motor in it.( more reliable than the 800s)
maybe try my first full carbon tunnel(no tubing)
always wanted to play with TI sooo titanium over structure and engine compartment
ok I better stop

sportsterdanne · May 2, 2014

Found some pics of a naked Axys.

http://maxsled.com/snowmobile/2015-model-snowmobile-release-polaris/

It has the post over the Engine.

SNWMBL · May 2, 2014

Also not sure about the " better fit & finish than before."

Probably could have worded that differently. What I meant was tighter fitting body panels to each other and to the frame for less snow ingestion. Nytro plastics are notorious for letting snow in everywhere, not sure how the Pros are. I definitely wasn't implying mine looks good, lol, but I won't ever sell this sled either.

Get to welding and post some more progress pics!

jskattum606 · May 2, 2014

I definitely see where your going with it and I like how your project is turning out. Just not where I wanted to head with this one.
Got a bunch more done the last few days. Nothing picture worthy yet though. Got my rear suspension and drive shaft bolts located and pre drilled. Got the running boards almost finished and am about to start on the motor mounts! Fun fun

alt · May 2, 2014

Wheel House Motorsports said:
There is always a better and lighter way to build sleds. We aren''t NASA, we have a budget and unlike you, we actually build the projects we talk about. So in one aspect, you are correct, there are better, lighter, stronger ways to do this sled. BUT, The cost to manufacture the way it is being done is very reasonable and the results speak for themselves.

Please start your own thread to show us your build and exactly how YOU are going to do YOURS and don't bog this one down.

Thanks you come again.

I don't think loudhandle was nesasarily trying to be a turd but more so just giving his opinion. Maybe I'm wrong but I see a build thread comming from him showing whatever top secret operation he has up his sleeve. I've read a lot of his posts and just sent him a box of parts I don't think he's going to be throwing in the corner. Seems to me he is just simply an extremely dedicated and serious sort not willing to comprise on anything. You just have to take that stuff for what it is how ever you see it, good or bad. Josh has some great ideas and is working with what he has redially available for the most part. It's really hard to fully grasp the positives and negative sometime through the keyboard. A guy shouldn't take things so litterely and pull some good out of the comments. Builds of any kind are what make the forum fun and usually we all learn from most all of them. Have fun with it.
Dan

jskattum606 · May 3, 2014

In resonse to the tube and carbon being repetitive, the tube is all of the structure. The carbon I hand lay myself and it is very thin. Basically used only as a barrier to keep snow In the tunnel and hold the u cooler.

Ill have to get some more pictures up next time im at a computer. Ready to start on the motor mounts!

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