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Sno Scoot Mod

Sumac Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Mar 3, 2009
162
52
28
Central Wisconsin
Port, Port, & Port Some More

What's the consensus on porting the 121" tracks?

Yes/No, spacing, size, placement?

Port away my Friend!!!!! Does it work????? That is always up for discussion if it works or not, It works on our Scoots they never seem to have any snow build up in them. We have ported 2 of ours but the real reason was because I found used tracks that had studs tore out of them so we ported them to clean up the holes from the torn out studs. I used some tracks that were really bad, but we have not had one of the Scoots tear one apart yet. Probably the best reason for us is that it looks really cool.........................
 
V

volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
4,222
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Stayton Oregon
Ok, I've got a track holesaw on loan, roughly a 1" and I may port with 2 holes in the center section on every pad just to minimize rolling resistance.

Wish that turbo wasn't still on backorder...
 
K
Nov 27, 2007
30
1
8
Looking great. I have two Scoots, looking to long track one of them. With the 121" track how would you describe the track length impacting power(ie up hill) and speed? Do your Scoots have any engine or clutch work? I'm thinking about getting the high altitude clutch parts from www.snoscoot.com.

Is that windshield from a quad?

I'm not too far away in Whitecourt.

Thanks,

kranc
 
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volcano buster

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Nov 26, 2007
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You will need a way to narrow up the track. We used a large table saw. Smoked us out of the shop at each pass, but made a nice clean cut.

I used 136" Mountain Max rails because a guy nicely donated them. Cut them to fit and narrowed the rear axle for a 2-wheel kit. Not too difficult, but each "kit" is different enough that we can't tell you exactly how to do it or where to measure to/from.

The drivers are for a square axle Enticer I think. Strip the thing down, press off the old ones, and on with the new ones. I think I measured between the stock ones and used a file to mark center. Once the new ones were on, I could measure out from center to get them located correctly.

I originally left slack in the front limiter thinking it would need to lift the rear of the track to turn, but it had enough transfer that the skis would come up and the kids couldn't turn it. Once the limiter was tight, it worked great.

Good luck and keep the pictures coming...
 
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volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
4,222
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Stayton Oregon
Should be the same drive shaft and track on both sleds so the drivers should fit.

If you are shopping for parts, I would look for the hydraulic Nytro disc brake combo found in one of the other threads, looks like a super sweet setup.

You might figure out how you might want to box in the rear of the sled. I was tempted to cut down a stock tunnel to fit, weld some mounts inside the existing frame and keep it up over the track, but never found one.

I think 121" rails will work, I was just working with free parts so I used the 136" and cut a section out of them.
 

Thistledoo

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Lifetime Membership
I was the guy who originated the nitro brake mod, so my sport and skoot both have that already....best mod ever. The girls can stop no problem now we just need to work on when the snow is a little deeper. Last winter had a few days where it was to deep and if they stopped or got outta it guess what....lol
I have seen a few pics of ones with 121 rails and they all seem to have extensions bolted on...I figure If I gotta look and buy a pair of rails then I mise well find the little bit longer ones. On your build I would think you had to trim the front of the rail and then it fit in the rear?
Ah just noticed you said cut a section out....? like how much?
 
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volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
4,222
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Stayton Oregon
On the 136" rail, I measured the piece I cut out, on the top of the flange that the hyfax slides on it measured 7" from the tip to the cut off point (tip because the rail is angled up at the back to clear the rear bogey. Once this was cut off, I then cut the upper piece with the adjusting notches just on top of the upper flange. I was able to clamp these to the outside of the rails and figure out where they need to be mounted, then drilled and bolted. I can't weld Aluminum but that would have made a real clean install. When I did it this way, I had to account for the added internal width between the "rails" when I made the 2 wheel kit out of the existing materials. The front of the rails were not molested. The only thing I did do, was move the rear bump stops off the rear of the rail to the rail under the Scoot cross bar.

Next time you are handing out beers, give one to the guy that figured out the Nytro brake setup! :present:
 
Last edited:
C
Nov 29, 2008
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63
I was the guy who originated the nitro brake mod, so my sport and skoot both have that already....best mod ever. The girls can stop no problem now we just need to work on when the snow is a little deeper. Last winter had a few days where it was to deep and if they stopped or got outta it guess what....lol
I have seen a few pics of ones with 121 rails and they all seem to have extensions bolted on...I figure If I gotta look and buy a pair of rails then I mise well find the little bit longer ones. On your build I would think you had to trim the front of the rail and then it fit in the rear?
Ah just noticed you said cut a section out....? like how much?

I used rails from an Ovation / older Phazer is similar. Ovation is a 108" track which worked great for the AD Boivin 108" bike track and the Phazer rails worked well for the 121" track conversion (Timbersled). Deep snow is not much of an issue now! Also found a new surplus poo skid plastics for $8.00 and trimmed it to fit - adds a bit of floatation and almost looks factory! Will have to do the hydraulic break mod for next year to make it easier for small hands.
 

Thistledoo

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Lifetime Membership
I found a set of new kimpex drivers on the shelf...lucky score. Also found a set of skidoo rails and I have a 121 track so I should have the pieces to do it now. Will start wrenching late summer so shes ready for the first dump!!:face-icon-small-ton
 

utsnowdog

New member
Premium Member
Apr 9, 2005
19
2
3
Northern Utah
This is the one I built a couple of years ago. I have 3 and I'm currently working on another long track. I use a 121" track and rails from a phazer. I took a section out of a Summit tunnel to narrow it, and mounted it to the Scoot frame. I like the way the tunnel is positioned on this one, and I will do the same on my current project. I like the way the mini pro tapers work with the enduro motorcycle headlight. For skis, I just cut down a set of v-tracks that I had and they work great, but I have also used mini power madds.
I found a YZ80 pipe and silencer that I am going to attempt to modify to fit. I'd like to squeeze a little more power from the stock scoot motor. I've found that many of the Scoot motor parts are similar to Yamaha Scooters. I would love to find the perfect Scooter setup(clutch, carb, exhaust) that I could test on one of my scoots. Can anyone help with this?

photo (7).jpg photo (6).jpg
 
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