GEO/ELVIS update#2 (New setup specs)

Flatcat12 · Feb 14, 2013

I did the Geo/Elvis Mod on my '07 Crossfire 8 with the 144x2 rail extensions from TracksUSA and it seemed to work great in the only puny drift I could find here in MN right now. Can't wait to get back out west. Thanks guys!

I have three questions:
1. I assume the stops on the lower rail are to make sure the shock doesn't over extend. I got clever and reused the coupling blocks. Sorry for the blurry pic and nevermind the JB Weld. I have 1/8" before I over extend the shock. Is that enough?
2. Do I need to worry about bottoming out the shock?
3. I have vertually no sag in. I plan to move the attachment point forward as far as I can for the spring. Any other ideas to make it ride less like a rock?

thanks

WyoBoy1000 · Feb 14, 2013

How is this thread not a sticky! Someone needs to correct that so everyother thread isn't about trenching and whats a geo mod!

Mnt bound · Feb 28, 2013

Has anyone ever done this mod with 2011 M8 STD with the stock coil over shocks on front and both rear shocks. I know I can play with the spring tensions but thought someone might have a starting point.
Thanks

Polarisrocks · Mar 1, 2013

Are all the upper idler wheels the same on all the m's? What will happen if i just drill a hole in the rail and move the base of the rear shock back? Will this do the same thing?

Jim

fordpickupman · Mar 1, 2013

No. Moving the base of the shock rearward will not affect it. Look at the geometry of the shock and links.

FORDpickupman

Mnt bound · Mar 1, 2013

Tried it both ways today and liked it

I have been reading this thread for a while but haven't changed anything until today. I have a hill behind my barn that is steep enough to test on (3ft total soft snow with no old tracks). So I ran my sled up it a couple of times in total stock position with stock valving. (2011 M8 Std 153). Then I changed to the Geo/Elvis mod. Lower hole for the front, Shaft collars and changed to new spot in the drop bracket. 6 threads showing under the stop nut on the zero pro in the front of the skid. Rear shock is a coil over so I left it alone for now.
2 in. deflection with 20LBS on the track for the tension. Like the manual says (2-2.25 in). 230LBS total riding weight. It trenches less. I can look at the tracks side by side. The sled feels easier to toss side to side and pops up faster. I like the results.
I am getting the rail tip vibration when the climbing. So how do I fix it? More spring pressure on the rear shock? Less on the zero pro? Loosen the track? To what 2.75 in with no weight on it? All of the above?
Or just order the anti-stab?
Thanks for any info,
MB

kidwoo · Mar 1, 2013

Order the anti stab kit for sure.

I already had one on mine but I did end up loosening up the track just because the new position seemed to tension it noticeably.

Mnt bound · Mar 1, 2013

Thanks.
That's what I was thinking. But thought there might be something I missed. (I'm prone to that). I had to loosen my track to get the skid back in. Then I was paranoid about stabbing the track so I tightened it to the spec in the manual. And thought it was about right if not just a little tight.

03Firecatguy · Mar 4, 2013

I just did the geo/Elvis mod on mine tonight but not the collars. What will that do if I don't put those on? Is it just barely moving the stops forward?

kidwoo · Mar 4, 2013

I did some rough math looking at Elvis's write up and figured that with his second hole AND the bigger collar, his stop didn't really move forward that much. I took the stock aluminum/bushing sheave thing and just ground it down on one side, almost to the bolt threads, and then just used the stock hole for the lower scissor mount. It may be a little shy, but it's pretty close to what Elvis ended up with.

03Firecatguy · Mar 25, 2013

So has anybody done this yet with the revalve?

Frostbite · Mar 25, 2013

Yup, and it works even better!

kidwoo · Mar 25, 2013

03Firecatguy said:
So has anybody done this yet with the revalve?

I don't know what "the" revalve is but I got some higher flow pistons with a slightly progressive shim stack and a quicker rebound stack and it works way better with that + the geo mod.

Smell54 · Apr 7, 2013

Just got back from togwotee riding with the Elvis mod and loved it. I'm going to install an anti stab kit though for next season.

arctic2009 · Sep 16, 2013

I realize this is quite an old thread, but what if any gains would I see if I did this in conjuction with my burandt revalve? I would like to trench a little less in the deep fluff, messed around with some psi changes last year but ran out of time.. 09 M8 sp.

av8er · Sep 16, 2013

This is what i recommend

Done the Geo Mod on 2 sleds, do the Geo Mod it takes 20 min. and if you buy the collars it costs less than $5. try it out, if you don't see any improvements, put it back to stock, takes 10 min. I felt that the geo mod helped to get my sled up on the snow faster, and it would stay on top, minimal trenching, did a 09 m1000 162, and a TM8-09-153. I would think that the Burant revalve woud just help with the ride quality. not the Geometry

boondocker97 · Sep 16, 2013

My advice is to try one thing at a time. That way you know what the change is doing for you. If you have the burandt kit installed then try it alone first. Then try the geo mod with it. From what av8er said, it shouldn't take too long. Your shock valving is going to affect the weight transfer of the skid and thus it's ability to climb out of the snow.

Frostbite · Sep 16, 2013

I LOVE MY 09 M8 153" with the GEO mod. I have drilled the lower holes in the tunnel and even moved the skid to the lower holes but, never drove the sled with the front skid bolts in lower nose. I noticed after installing the 2.6' Powerclaw that I had to tighten down the front skid shock a thread or two to keep the sled from coming over backwards while climbing. I felt like I almost broke my wrists twice when the sled came over backwards and landed right on top of me. I would have to look at my tuning book to say for sure how many threads are showing on the front zero pro.

arctic2009 · Sep 16, 2013

thanks for the tips guys, I was just curious if it was worth doing even though I had the burandt revalve already done. Ill try the different settings one at a time and see what works the best... too bad it will be another 2 LONG months

DAKOTAKIDD · Sep 17, 2013

So you are running a PC 2.6 with the Geo mod. Hmmmm.. I would like to do it with my 2.5 CE and hopefully I will have room so the track doesn't hit..If you are running a 2.6, I should be ok with a 162 and a 2.5"

Think I'll try after my first few runs out so I can see the difference

GEO/ELVIS update#2 (New setup specs)

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