2001 Pantera 1000 ....need some info please

Idcatman1 said:

Yes, there are different versions of the 6 bolt clutch. I like to call it 6 bolt instead of 6 tower for some reason. Anyway the earlier ones used the same weights as the 9 bolt without the set screw and with the bushing. Most if not all of the newer 6 bolt clutches use the weight with a setscrew and the larger pivot pin or bolt. I think you can put bushings in the set screw weights and use them in the older clutches, but it is not a good idea to use the older weights in the set screw clutches. It can be done but the weights and the pins will wear too quickly because there would be no bushing. Also they would need some washers to prevent side to side movement. Again, I hope this helps.

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I ordered the correct set screw style weights and finally a clutch puller from catdeals. I believe the puller works for 6 and 9 post clutches.

Bought a second hand 9 post clutch locally to hold me over until the parts come in. Bolted it on and rode the Pantera out of the garage last night so I can get the boys Powder Special in for carb maintenance. Backed the Pantera up so I could ride it into my enclosed trailer and when I jammed on the brake it brought up solid. Pantera won't move....%$$#

I guess when the Powder Special is cleaned up I will get the Pantera back in so I can take the darn caliper apart to clean it up.....I guess 8 years of not riding it does this

Pantera Caliper

Took the caliper off. Not much movement on the cylinders. In fact only one side moves a tiny bit. Is it worth it taking the whole thing apart or just look for a good used one?

Pantera was bringing up solid when I tried to back it into the trailer the other day. I presumed it was the brake caliper that was seized and seized up as soon as I grabbed the handle to stop the machine.

I just slid around in under the snowmobile a while ago and noticed that the two centermost rows of buttons that grab onto the drive wheels are about 75% destroyed. I bought this ripsaw track 8 years ago and never looked at it but I presume I bought it this way as a second hand track. The reason I'm saying this is I wonder if one of the buttons may be twisted sideways a bit and when I stop at an inopportune moment it brings my drivetrain up solid to the point that the belt burns. I doubt this is the case but had to throw this bit of info out there.

I split the caliper open and proceeded to pull the piston out on each side using two vicegrips, one on each side of each piston.

Cylinders looked nice with no pitting. Pistons had a bit of gunk on the outer 1/3" all the way around that I sanded off with 400 grit. Cleaned the cylinders out and rubbed a bit of brake fluid on the walls of the cylinders and pistons and pushed the pistons back in. Bolted the two halves back together.

Can't ride right now because rain and 9 Celsius for two days has melted all the 130cm of snow we had in December and early January. I need to ride the Pantera with the caliper off to see whether the caliper was what was bringing it up solid.

Other than that that darn track with the damaged knobs/buttons (whatever the things are called that the drivers hook up onto to drive the track) is the problem.

Idcatman3 said:

Look through your rear suspension closely. When those rows of track nubs are destroyed, it usually means something is wrong back there. If it's catching, that could be what's keeping it from moving.

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I inspected the rear suspension and the closest thing to those nubs are the sides of the bolt that hold the rear shock on. The rear most idler wheels though stop the track from moving sideways so it should move sideways enough to be able to hit that bolt. Mind you I had the Pantera jacked up in the back with a cherry picker so I don't know if letting it down would be different.....seeing that that rear shock is 12 years old it is probably not in the best condition even though it looked fine.

I'm not sure how easily that track should move but I had to use two arms to move it, one pulling from the bottom and the other pushing the top of the track. Some noises here and there but it seemed ok (I had the caliper bolted back on but never put the pads in yet until I get a chance to ride it first) Firing up the snowmobile while lifted the track moves easily in forwards and reverse under throttle.

I still believe I probably bought the track damaged like this but just didn't know what to look for at the time and missed the two damaged rows of nubs. The outside part of the track looks perfect and that was all I saw.....just wanted a 1 1/4" ripsaw on the Pantera at the time that's why I bought it.

I do have a question though....

While looking over the suspension (take into consideration that I have no clue what to look for )) I saw these 2 bands and some bolts that can adjust these bands. It looks like it pulls the suspension tighter when you tighten these bolts and mine was almost as far to the opposite side as it could go. It just made me think about suspension adjustments and what they are for as I then noticed a few other adjustments that could be made and wondered as to the purpose and effects of these adjustments.

Anyway, I don't want anyone to write an essay so I will try googling some info. A sentence or two of directed info would come in useful )

BTW that big triple sounds really nice since I cleaned out the carbs and I love the smell of dirty ol' two stroke synthetic oil. People would probably say get rid of that dinosaur and stop wasting time and money on it. I just enjoy the sound, the smell and that torque this thing has.