how to replace rear track idler wheels
- Thread starter 07dragon
- Start date
F
I assume you mean the rear most track idlers.
You will need to lift the rear of the sled off the ground by the bumper so there is no weight on the track.
Loosen the bolt that screws into each end of the rear idler axle. You will need to put a wrench on each bolt.
Loosen the track tension adjusters on each side. They are the bolts that screw up against the axle that holds the wheels. Loosen them way out. Inspect the block they screw into. If you hit some thing hard enough to ruin the idlers you may have also broken the block. If not you are in luck.
Remove the bolts you loosened earlier on the axle. If only one comes out you will need to use a ViceGrip on the axle to keep it from spinning to get the other bolt out. But they both need to be removed.
Remove the axle and idler wheels from the track.
Replace the idlers. If the axle shaft is bent then getting the wheels off may be a real pain. You can buy a new 2 wheel axle on ebay for about $25. There are a lot of choices for idlers but the OEMs are cost effective and seem to work just fine. Personally I would stick with plastic.
Reinstall the axle and wheel assembly and put in the 2 bolts but do not tighten them. Adjust the track backwards with the adjustment bolts. As a note when you look at the plastic spacer blocks on the axle you will notice there is a spot where the adjustment bolts contact the axle directly. That is where they need to be.
Adjust the track to your liking and tighten the axle bolts. Use a little blue LocTite on the bolts.
Thats about it.
You will need to lift the rear of the sled off the ground by the bumper so there is no weight on the track.
Loosen the bolt that screws into each end of the rear idler axle. You will need to put a wrench on each bolt.
Loosen the track tension adjusters on each side. They are the bolts that screw up against the axle that holds the wheels. Loosen them way out. Inspect the block they screw into. If you hit some thing hard enough to ruin the idlers you may have also broken the block. If not you are in luck.
Remove the bolts you loosened earlier on the axle. If only one comes out you will need to use a ViceGrip on the axle to keep it from spinning to get the other bolt out. But they both need to be removed.
Remove the axle and idler wheels from the track.
Replace the idlers. If the axle shaft is bent then getting the wheels off may be a real pain. You can buy a new 2 wheel axle on ebay for about $25. There are a lot of choices for idlers but the OEMs are cost effective and seem to work just fine. Personally I would stick with plastic.
Reinstall the axle and wheel assembly and put in the 2 bolts but do not tighten them. Adjust the track backwards with the adjustment bolts. As a note when you look at the plastic spacer blocks on the axle you will notice there is a spot where the adjustment bolts contact the axle directly. That is where they need to be.
Adjust the track to your liking and tighten the axle bolts. Use a little blue LocTite on the bolts.
Thats about it.
F
Wheels
This is pretty easy. There are a lot of people on here that have done this and a few of them will probably chime in with some experiences and info on getting the track adjusted right and other things.
If something is not going well just post here and someone will answer your question.
A lot of us older "M" riders out there.
I like the stock plastic because of price and they shed snow better than aluminum. I have ruined a few also and the price of an OEM is easier to swallow than an aftermarket.
BTW it was 70 degrees in eastern South Dakota today and close to 80 in the middle of the state. Not a good start to snow season.
This is pretty easy. There are a lot of people on here that have done this and a few of them will probably chime in with some experiences and info on getting the track adjusted right and other things.
If something is not going well just post here and someone will answer your question.
A lot of us older "M" riders out there.
I like the stock plastic because of price and they shed snow better than aluminum. I have ruined a few also and the price of an OEM is easier to swallow than an aftermarket.
BTW it was 70 degrees in eastern South Dakota today and close to 80 in the middle of the state. Not a good start to snow season.
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F
Wheels
Last ones I bought I got local. They do not cost so much that it is worth looking too much. You can find them on eBay pretty much all the time. Getting the color you want is sometimes difficult. I like Country Cat and they are close.
Last ones I bought I got local. They do not cost so much that it is worth looking too much. You can find them on eBay pretty much all the time. Getting the color you want is sometimes difficult. I like Country Cat and they are close.
I'm not sure what the price difference is, but the newer factory 2 wheel setup has joined hubs which IMO is a much more burly setup than the older style wheels, aka they can't twist perpendicular to the axle which is how your probably bent.
I've bent mine the same way and when I do it again I'm for sure going for the newer wheels..
I've bent mine the same way and when I do it again I'm for sure going for the newer wheels..
Ive seen them on m sleds but I dont know if you need the axle or not. If you do go for it make sure you get the newer style wheels with replaceable bearings
0
Finally got around to taking everything off tonight. Couldn't get one end bolt out of the shaft, couldn't find a spot to grab the axle with vice grips cause the center is the spacer over the axle. Could tell axle was bent by the way it turned oblong while trying to remove the bolt so ended up cutting the spacer and axle in half with sawzal. Going to dealer tomorrow. Not sure yet if gonna go back with original or proclimb parts yet tho
