The stock spring just doesn't load the motor and make it pull. Especially speeds above 40 mph, but even in the deep snow as well.
DRIVEN CLUTCH SPRING OPTIONS
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Interesting. I rode again today with the Speedwerx 170/270 because I also love the way it performed last ride. Tried reverse at the truck to load and still had slipping. I am going to look this week and see exactly what is happening. I have two stock clutches set up and the only thing different is the rear spring.
And yes it absolutely rocked everywhere today except at the truck!
Thanks,
Woody
Thanks Woody, I have to at least try it so I have a Speedwerx 170-270 H5 secondary spring ordered now as well.
It sounds like I might have a 50/50 shot of reverse working.
Then we'll have to figure out why if it doesn't and just fix it.
I hope it's just your secondary being an issue Woody. I'll be curious to find out what happens if you try this spring in your other secondary?
It sounds like I might have a 50/50 shot of reverse working.
Then we'll have to figure out why if it doesn't and just fix it.
I hope it's just your secondary being an issue Woody. I'll be curious to find out what happens if you try this spring in your other secondary?
S
We have used springs lighter than the 170/270 in many applications and had no issues with reverse. You could possibly have some issues if you were on gravel or pavement and the carbides were biting in and you're using a lot of throttle to overcome the resistance, but you could probably say the same for the stock spring too- there's not a huge difference in the rates as the stock spring is 180/295 when rated at the same height.
SpeedwerxInc, is there perhaps an even better choice in a secondary spring for mountain applications?
I too didn't think the small initial rate change should cause this issue. I will take a closer look. Perhaps the backing cams are not engaging in this clutch.
Thanks for the checking in on this thread.
Woody
S
There may not be any one spring that is best for all applications- your helix and primary setup come into play as well too, but as stated before the 800 does like to be loaded harder. You'll notice all our 12-15 springs are lighter than stock- that's the direction we've found to work best. Without giving out the colonel's secret recipe, we'll just say on stock or lightly modded machines, a slight change to the primary and a lighter spring with the stock helix works very well in our experience. Here's our kit for the 800- http://www.speedwerxstore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2877. Don't be afraid to give us a call at 651-982-6020 if you have any questions about your particular application.
My reverse problem was an assembly error on my part.
Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks,
Woody
Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks,
Woody
Any more updates on this?
My Speedwerx Black/Purple spring arrived today! I will be installing it tomorrow.
Is there anything I should know before cracking into a Proclimb secondary for the first time? I thought I read about removing something (black ring?) inside the secondary?
My Speedwerx Black/Purple spring arrived today! I will be installing it tomorrow.
Is there anything I should know before cracking into a Proclimb secondary for the first time? I thought I read about removing something (black ring?) inside the secondary?
Make sure you use a torch to take it apart. There's a lot of high temp lock tight in there. Be careful not to melt the rollers. And use High temp when you put it back together
I swapped out the secondary spring yesterday. Dang...do you think they used enough Loctite on the helix bolts? :face-icon-small-dis They were TIGHT!
I went ahead and left both large black plastic washers inside the secondary (one above and one below the spring). They appear to be some type of glide washers to prevent the secondary spring from binding?
Anyway, I backed the sled out of my shop and rode it a bit before putting it in the trailer and tried reverse several more times and reverse seems to work just fine.
Now, if I can get the family herded up, I will give a report on how it works for me.
Is there any new news on this subject? Have any of you who have replaced the secondary spring thought about trying another H5 spring?
As Mr. Speedwerx says "a lighter spring with the stock helix works very well in our experience".
My question is, how light is too light? Is the 170/270 just scratching the surface of potential improvements? Maybe a 150/250 would work even better?
I went ahead and left both large black plastic washers inside the secondary (one above and one below the spring). They appear to be some type of glide washers to prevent the secondary spring from binding?
Anyway, I backed the sled out of my shop and rode it a bit before putting it in the trailer and tried reverse several more times and reverse seems to work just fine.
Now, if I can get the family herded up, I will give a report on how it works for me.
Is there any new news on this subject? Have any of you who have replaced the secondary spring thought about trying another H5 spring?
As Mr. Speedwerx says "a lighter spring with the stock helix works very well in our experience".
My question is, how light is too light? Is the 170/270 just scratching the surface of potential improvements? Maybe a 150/250 would work even better?
I just ordered the 150-270 h5 spring, so there's another one to add to this little research project here. My guess is it won't be here 'til next week so it'll be at least the following weekend before I get to try it.
Way to go Vern! The more input the better.
All lowering that initial number will do is allow it to shift out of low gear faster. In the trees and crawling around I imagine this will create more clutch heat. Lowering the second number actually allows it to shift out without adding unnecessary stress. The least amount of finish rate you can run while still achieving back shift and holding the belt from slipping the better you'll be.
If I were to buy an h5 spring it would be the 170-250. I imagine you'll have to drop some weight as well.
I know its a different sled so may have a totally different outcome, but my m7 ran awesome with a 140-270 spring in the sec. so I just figured id start in the same ballpark on my proclimb and see what happens. If it works it works, if not its another spring to add to the pile.
Well, we'll see how Vern's spring works for him.
The 170-250 is definitely on my list as one to try.
The 170-250 is definitely on my list as one to try.
A
Has anyone tried what the lightest initial rate you can go without the clutch slipping out of the ER Hook when in reverse?
Got my spring today so started to try and get it swapped with no success so far. I didn't have much time to play with it as its almost time for work, but how the heck are ya'll gettin the helix screws out? I hit it with my little propane torch for a good while and then nor me or my little ridgid impact gun will budge them still. First I need to find a better way to hold the thing, how much heat is to much? I worry about melting stuff like rollers, bushings etc.
I use one of these the break them loose, Little bit of heat and couple hits with a hammer and there loose.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
