Since I'm newer to the PRO game will you be able to fit the new 2.8 Conquer with just a driver change or will you need the chaincase drop also to make it work?
Conquer 2.8 Track
- Thread starter NorthMNSledder
- Start date
3.0 pitch drivers, trim the rails, anti stab kit, and you are good to go.
depends on year, chaincase sleds need the case modified for 7t 3.0 pitch drivers(track rubs case) quickdrive sleds its good to go. if you get center drive drivers and track you don't need the anti-stab or trim rails.
Sorry, was just thinking Quick drive. Ullose272 is on the money.
I'm running a 2013 Assault which has the chaincase. I was planning to move to a TKI belt Drive system anyway. Do you know how that plays into this puzzle?
B
I believe the TKI kit does not relocate the draft shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong. Just a lower gear ration, better belt and tensioner.
S
I don't think Tom makes a chaincase kit anymore. You buy the stock back plate from a belt drive sled. Install that. Then you do not have clearance issues either.
When I talked to him mid summer he said he still does but you have to call him to get it. No longer on the website.
Just so I'm clear on this. The driveshaft is mounted in the same location on both models (PRO RMK with the factory belt drive and the Chaincase model). however its the back side of the chaincase that is hitting the track that is causing the problems. Do I have that right?
Yes, here is a link that explains the process pretty well. The procedure for the X3 and 280 are the same. http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3974982#post3974982
Perfect!
So like outlaw Addict suggested if I'm just going to go to the belt drive anyway I can just swap the back plate with the Factory belt drive version and be good to go OR modify the chaincase they way that thread shows.
Thank you guys for the help!!
id just do the back plate and quickdrive pulleys or gear down of your choice. I don't know if the chaincase driveshaft will work with the quickdrive though.
S
Or go with avid 6 tooth drivers and 3.5" pitch 280 in a 165 and shed some extra rotating mass...
N
In a related question, are there any cons to going with the center driver setup vs. a conventional setup?
The center drive drivers might be a few ounces lighter.
Center drive: You don't have to cut the rails. The weak point is that when the track starts to slip you only have one anti-ratchet point to catch the track. This point is pushing on the raw edge of the center hole in the track. This causes damage on some people's track.
Clip drive: You have to cut the rails. Since there are a set of anti-ratchet points in each row of track clip holes, the forces of any slippage is divided by two. Also, the two anti-ratchet rows are pushing on steel track clips. The drivers will wear out before the track.
I've sold a lot of both types. It depends on how you ride.
Center drive: You don't have to cut the rails. The weak point is that when the track starts to slip you only have one anti-ratchet point to catch the track. This point is pushing on the raw edge of the center hole in the track. This causes damage on some people's track.
Clip drive: You have to cut the rails. Since there are a set of anti-ratchet points in each row of track clip holes, the forces of any slippage is divided by two. Also, the two anti-ratchet rows are pushing on steel track clips. The drivers will wear out before the track.
I've sold a lot of both types. It depends on how you ride.
Do you have one in hand? Im really impressed, thats 2lb less than I saw advertised.
The previous published weights were computer generated. They made them a little "heavy" to not get in trouble. The actual production tracks are a little under 40 pounds, but I was told to tell you 40 pounds in case someone got a heavy one.
The 162 3" pitch 15 wide tracks that we have been selling are running between 45 and 45.25 lbs on my scale.
3.5" pitch should start showing up next week and I have been told they are 40 ish.
3.5" pitch should start showing up next week and I have been told they are 40 ish.
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