Trouble shooting a sound like ratcheting???

Snowlover · Nov 12, 2009

Last spring, in wet heavy snow and a long full throttle climb, I had a sound like ratcheting. I adjusted the track, but did not really have another climb like the one before.

This fall, doing prep work, my track looks tight as a bow string. I first wondered if the drivers or windows were damamged and allowed ratcheting, but they looked ok.

Tonight while greasing, I wiped the excess on the speedo side of the drive axle and noticed the drive teeth had some marks in the side of it. It appears that under hard acceleration, my left rail has shifted over a little and has hit the side of the driver.

Sled is 02 800 rmk with stock drivers and stock mounting of the suspension, but running a 159x2 1/4 series 4.

Could the suspension twist enough to allow the rail tip to hit the out side of the drivers?

If so, I assume trimming the rails a little would stop this?

rmkboxer · Nov 12, 2009

make sure that the drive shaft bearing is going bad, that happened to me a couple of years ago.

AKSNOWRIDER · Nov 12, 2009

take a good look at all the rear suspension...have seen arms crack and cause a ratchet under heavy load..keep tightening the track and its still there..finally it breaks the arm and takes out a load of parts......

happylilcuss · Nov 12, 2009

Ok so first off are you running all stock? Or are you running extrovert drivers? If extros the tips can for sure hit. If all stock then I would be checking your chain case tension, your speedo bearing and make sure that every thing is solid. If everything checks out there then get back to us.

snojunkee · Nov 13, 2009

like mike said

i would definiteley take a good look at the drive shaft bearing. common symptom. good luck.

theultrarider · Nov 13, 2009

snojunkee said:
i would definiteley take a good look at the drive shaft bearing. common symptom. good luck.

x3 of the driveshaft bearing. Change them out every other year wether they need it or not. Just a good insurance policy. The bearing is cheap, the damgae it can cause is $$$.

Snowlover · Nov 13, 2009

Thanks for the comments. That's what Snowest is for!!!

Bearing seemed ok, but that was only a visual while greasing it. The schematic shows the bearing @ $32 and the quantity @ 2 so is the same bearing used on the chaincase side? I thought previous sleds had a different bearing assy on the chaincase side. Dennis Kirk shows the bearings as different part numbers, but lots cheaper.

Any source for bearings other than the dealer? I will replace both while I am at it.

xcrash911 · Nov 13, 2009

If the drive shaft bearing is bad, doesn't it usually take out the speedo key causing the speedo to quit working?

2greentractors · Nov 13, 2009

track racheting

If you have not done it before, I would change that greasable bearing just for good measure. Beats ruining a good day of riding when it goes all the way out.

I also had my stock 159" track loose one cleat that the drivers grip. Once it started racheting because of that blank, it did not stop til you let off the throttle.

devilrmk · Nov 14, 2009

Snowlover said:
Thanks for the comments. That's what Snowest is for!!!

Bearing seemed ok, but that was only a visual while greasing it. The schematic shows the bearing @ $32 and the quantity @ 2 so is the same bearing used on the chaincase side? I thought previous sleds had a different bearing assy on the chaincase side. Dennis Kirk shows the bearings as different part numbers, but lots cheaper.

Any source for bearings other than the dealer? I will replace both while I am at it.

Different bearing on the chaincase side, it does use the same bearing on the jackshaft though. Thats probably where the 2 came from. Go to a bearing shop, they will have them for about $15 and should have it in stock. Its a popular bearing.

xcrash, yes it usually takes out the speedo drive but not always.

snojunkee · Nov 14, 2009

there is a guy named Biil Bryan in vancouver who was in the parking lot at the snow show passing out flyers, he sells bearings cheap. his # is 360-546-1111 or cell # 231-642-0630

Snowlover · Nov 14, 2009

Drive shaft is out. Bearing not completely shot. It is a little rough and will be replaced. The drivers have some damage to the outside edges. Opinions on needing to replace?

snowguthrie · Nov 14, 2009

I had the same problem couldn't figure out why track would ratchet. pulled the under carrage and the front scissor was bent and broke were the front shock bolts to it. I would check that out.

happylilcuss · Nov 14, 2009

Yup I would replace with that damage I would imagine you are going to ratchet under heavy load. It is just giving the drivers a chance to slip and once they start to slip the only way to stop it is to let off. Well in heavy snow once you let up what are you going to do? Your going to hammer it again and your under an even heavier load now so.... Slippage..

skibreeze · Nov 14, 2009

Snowlover said:
Drive shaft is out. Bearing not completely shot. It is a little rough and will be replaced. The drivers have some damage to the outside edges. Opinions on needing to replace?

I really don't see that as a reason to replace the drivers. I don't think that the bearing is causing the ratcheting though, and the rails should not be able to touch the driver unless something is fubar.

X2Freeride · Nov 14, 2009

Snowlover said:
Thanks for the comments. That's what Snowest is for!!!

Bearing seemed ok, but that was only a visual while greasing it. The schematic shows the bearing @ $32 and the quantity @ 2 so is the same bearing used on the chaincase side? I thought previous sleds had a different bearing assy on the chaincase side. Dennis Kirk shows the bearings as different part numbers, but lots cheaper.

Any source for bearings other than the dealer? I will replace both while I am at it.

They are two different bearings. The chain case one isnt the same as the clutch side bearing. In all reality it should be replaced every 2K-3K miles.

If I were you I would pull the suspension from the sled and check the front arm for problems. That bearing being bad didnt cause your problem all on its own. There has to be another contributing factor, and all sines point toward that front arm. Make sure you pull the suspension all the way out though. Its too easy to miss things with the suspension in the sled.

happylilcuss · Nov 15, 2009

The skid is out guys as he has the driver on the bench.. That would be a neat trick to get the drive axle out and leave the skid hooked to the sled!! :=) I would check it over really well cause I bet they are right and something Is hinky with the front arm. Are the caps still on the end of each rail? Or are the caps missing? Were both bolts in the front suspension mount on the tunel? Something is sure weird I hope you get it found. Good luck keep us informed.

Dazzler · Nov 15, 2009

Check your rails? if there is a slight bow in them it will increase under power. My boys introduced me to this one from ditch banging a long track!

rmkboxer · Nov 15, 2009

you need to check your suspension really close, I lost a bearing on my edge a couple of years ago and it would ratchet with anti ratchets. I think you have another problem also.

Snowlover · Nov 15, 2009

Suspension arms look perfect. No broken welds. They do not appear bent. I measured them a few different ways and they are the same. The rails show no bends @ all. I ran a straight edge down the side and bottoms.

No uneven wear on the hifax. Rail tips are still on and show no damage @ all. They have not hit the drivers.

My latest theory! The previous owner must have put the damaged drivers back in when he put the 159x2 1/4 track. The track is only clipped every third, so could the previously damaged drivers ratchet under extreme torque? I will replace the bearings and plan on taking the drive shaft to Pierre's tomorrow and get their opinion. I have another set of stock drivers that I will press on just in case.

Thanks for the reply's.

Trouble shooting a sound like ratcheting???

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