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Fox Suspension qs3 Lock Mode

J
Nov 27, 2016
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Have you heard about the new lock mode system on the Chris Burandt edition fox suspension ?

I want to know how it works and if somebody have reviews of that new system?
 

Wheel House Motorsports

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Yeah, it sounds like they just brought that feature over to the POO setups.

I know on the cats it worked incredible.

Setting 1 is a nice plus soft powder setup, clicker 2 is a nice stiffer setup for ripping bumps and jumps and 3 keeps the skis down and you climbing. it makes a BIG change in how much transfer there is and how far you make it up the hill. Like if you put a highmark down in clicker 2 you go till you flip over basically, position 3 kept the skis down and blew through the mark with ease. Didn't use it often, but get down in a nasty gully or something or trying to make a big poke somewhere, flip to lockout and haul ass up the hill! Especially beneficial on the 150 length sleds where wheeling over backwards is a real problem in the deep.
 
J

JJ_0909

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I've tested it extensively on the Ski-Doo side of things (same damper). The QS system is really a rapid low speed compression adjust.

Setting one is wide open. It will be plushest on trail but also allow the sled to transfer weight at the highest rate. This will be your playful "most prone to wheelie" (and trench) setting.

Setting two is 15% (ish?) firmer (there is a diagram showing this). I usually would ride at setting two as it kept the sled pretty playful but would help get the sled on top of the snow faster (it countered any trenching). I was also faster on rough trail as it kept the sled level, I didn't blow through travel.

Setting three is a "lock out". I put that in quotes because its really not a true lock out. Its just a crazy firm LSC setting. If you hit a bump hard, it'll blow off. I used this to climb steep stuff when I had to keep my front end down.

In a way it works like coupling, maybe not quiet as precise as coupling, but similar.

Personally I liked it. Easy to change the attitude of the sled, even with gloves on. I did however find Fox's valving to be a bit off. This is something any tuner can fix.
 
J
Nov 27, 2016
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Good. So the lock mode is just when you want to climb big thing...
You cant ride it all day long in deep powder.

So the best set up for boondocking is the set up 1. Soft
 

mountainhorse

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It would be nice to see a simple electronic lock switch on JUST the REAR.
The full electronic suspension is nice and it would be nice to engage the rear lockout.

For a full set of shocks...The new iQS... At $3900 (less for the 'street price') would be the ultimate control-as-you ride option... You can 'lock out' the rear with the flick of a switch.

A little pricey, but pretty cool to be able to tailor your ride on the fly !!!

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goridedoo

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Im gonna try the Boorandt QSL this year, was gonna go for the new Raptors but the “lockout” feature sold me. Like said above its about the closest thing you will get to coupling... with out being coupling. Probably wont use it more than a couple times a year but will be convenient when or if needed.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Im gonna try the Boorandt QSL this year, was gonna go for the new Raptors but the “lockout” feature sold me. Like said above its about the closest thing you will get to coupling... with out being coupling. Probably wont use it more than a couple times a year but will be convenient when or if needed.

I spent a day on an 18 mountain cat with the QSL.
Basically engage the “lock” position and ride it everywhere.

The other 2 positions were just hero wheelie setting. (Not useable at all in the steep)
 

goridedoo

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I spent a day on an 18 mountain cat with the QSL.
Basically engage the “lock” position and ride it everywhere.

The other 2 positions were just hero wheelie setting. (Not useable at all in the steep)
Thats just a Cat thing I would imagine, the 153s I have been around carry the front end a ridiculous amount.

Hoping the Burandt version on the Poo is set up to be ridden on 2 in normal conditions.
 
J

JJ_0909

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You won't ride it around all day locked out unless some other part of the sled is setup poorly (EG, taller-than-spec front end, high front track shock air pressure, broken limiter etc)

That said, the L setting is more useful than just going up crazy steep stuff too. If you are sidehilling stupid steep stuff it can be helpful to keep the sled level, keep it from wanting to walk the track down the hill/wash. But yeah, you aren't doing wheelies in that mode!

Good stuff for sure.
 

Madtown

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I really want these for my Axys 155 but just can't justify the cost since if I switch to a 850 anytime soon the front ski shocks dont work on it.
 
J

JJ_0909

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I really want these for my Axys 155 but just can't justify the cost since if I switch to a 850 anytime soon the front ski shocks dont work on it.

Just do the rear. It'll transfer.
 
J

JJ_0909

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I thought about it but worried about upsetting the balance of the sled. Currently have valved WE clickers all around.

It won't upset the balance at all. I've run this exact setup (air skid, coilover front). I'd go for it.
 

Madtown

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It won't upset the balance at all. I've run this exact setup (air skid, coilover front). I'd go for it.

Maybe I will as would love the "lock out" option for the rear skid. I also have some Fox Zero Pro's non adjustable that I could use. I originally took those off as they were awful, way to soft in valving & spring rate. Wonder if Fox sells stiffer springs & I could get them revalved.
 
J

JJ_0909

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Maybe I will as would love the "lock out" option for the rear skid. I also have some Fox Zero Pro's non adjustable that I could use. I originally took those off as they were awful, way to soft in valving & spring rate. Wonder if Fox sells stiffer springs & I could get them revalved.

They do make stiffer springs. 100% postiive! Go to a 100...I bet they came with 80s.
 
S

Spaarky

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I thought about it but worried about upsetting the balance of the sled. Currently have valved WE clickers all around.

You are 100% correct. If you switch to floats on the rear. You want them on the front also.

It’s like running radials on the front of your car and bias plies on the back.

At minimum I would try to run Floats with Floats.
 
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